Runslikeapenguin Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 This truck is quickly driving me to insanity. I assumed (foolishly) that i would be able to just sort this intake buisness out quickly. That however was far from the truth. I managed after a serious fight to get the old carb off and to remove almost all the smog equipment. There is no way in hell you can work on or do anything with that stuff in the way. I swear i removed at least 25 lbs of that stuff. The air pump is the only thing left. Here's the issue. I got my Offenhauser manifold in the mail today and i managed to find what i thought was a Weber 32/36. It was however a Holly 5200. I did some reading and research and pretty much everything tells me that it was the same carb. The rebuild kit i have looks like it will all work. But when i paired it up to the manifold i realized that there is no way the linkage can work without some kind of spacer. Is there some kind of spacer i need? i did a search and found some pictures of the Weber 32/36 that had a 2"-3" riser that i didn't notice anywhere else before. I thought this manifold was designed for the Weber carbs? Any way I was already fighting with trying to get the air injection pipes off the the old exhaust. attempting to get the old intake off and not bust any bolts, the last thing i need is to be hunting around for parts. I have to get this thing running by this weekend. I also realized that i need about 5 plugs and i have to make a block off plate of some kind of the EGR piece of the manifold. I'm very quickly getting sick to death of this truck. someone restore my faith and bail me out here. I will set fire to this truck. :mad: Quote Link to comment
74datsun620 Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 I would just plug the one end on the heat riser it is normal pipe thread, and use pentrating over night before you crank on the bolts to much and it would be nice to what motor you have I can guess it is 20l that you dont have to smog Quote Link to comment
drxfter Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 I've heard of guys plugging air injection holes cylinder heads with old spark plugs of the right size and thread. You could make a flat plate with the right sized holes to blank off the EGR, or braze/seal up the pipes and leave the pipe fittings in place. (same for the air injection, unless its really in the way). sounds like a headaache altogether, though - especially when you're rushed. Hang in there, man. ;) Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 It would also help us help you if you filled ot a location. There might be a member real close to you and might have some of the parts information you need. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 You are almost there. ANY carburetor swap is like this unless you get the whole kit. Hang in there. I'd come by to help but you didn't list your location. If this frustrates you don't bother rebuilding the carb, that's even more problem-prone. Put the carb on and start it up. If it runs OK, go with it. If it doesn't adjust it correctly. The last thing to do is mess with the insides of the carb. The Holley 5200 is a licensed version of the Weber DGV (32/36). Most 5200s have smaller venturis, which is great for a 2-liter engine, as the DGV can easily power a 3-liter engine. The jets number scheme differs, as does the inlet and filters, but otherwise it is the DGV design. Quote Link to comment
tdaaj Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 This truck is quickly driving me to insanity. I assumed (foolishly) that i would be able to just sort this intake buisness out quickly. That however was far from the truth. I managed after a serious fight to get the old carb off and to remove almost all the smog equipment. There is no way in hell you can work on or do anything with that stuff in the way. I swear i removed at least 25 lbs of that stuff. The air pump is the only thing left. Here's the issue. I got my Offenhauser manifold in the mail today and i managed to find what i thought was a Weber 32/36. It was however a Holly 5200. I did some reading and research and pretty much everything tells me that it was the same carb. The rebuild kit i have looks like it will all work. But when i paired it up to the manifold i realized that there is no way the linkage can work without some kind of spacer. Is there some kind of spacer i need? i did a search and found some pictures of the Weber 32/36 that had a 2"-3" riser that i didn't notice anywhere else before. I thought this manifold was designed for the Weber carbs? Any way I was already fighting with trying to get the air injection pipes off the the old exhaust. attempting to get the old intake off and not bust any bolts, the last thing i need is to be hunting around for parts. I have to get this thing running by this weekend. I also realized that i need about 5 plugs and i have to make a block off plate of some kind of the EGR piece of the manifold. I'm very quickly getting sick to death of this truck. someone restore my faith and bail me out there. I will set fire to this truck. :mad: whats your location? Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted January 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 You are almost there. ANY carburetor swap is like this unless you get the whole kit. Hang in there. I'd come by to help but you didn't list your location. If this frustrates you don't bother rebuilding the carb, that's even more problem-prone. Put the carb on and start it up. If it runs OK, go with it. If it doesn't adjust it correctly. The last thing to do is mess with the insides of the carb. The Holley 5200 is a licensed version of the Weber DGV (32/36). Most 5200s have smaller venturis, which is great for a 2-liter engine, as the DGV can easily power a 3-liter engine. The jets number scheme differs, as does the inlet and filters, but otherwise it is the DGV design. The carb i got was in pretty sorry shape, i had to rebuild it. I've dropped a few of these 32/36's onto ACVW engines before. Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted January 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 I'm in NE Tacoma, basically Federal Way if there's anyone near enough to have the parts i need i would be most obliged. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 the 5200 i had had the linkage on the opposite side of my 32/36.. is it off a pinto? :P Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted January 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 the 5200 i had had the linkage on the opposite side of my 32/36.. is it off a pinto? :P Yeah i found out that there are multiple versions of the carb and some had the linkage in different places. Mine is on the same side as the stock car but it pulls "down" right into the manifold. It only has like an eighth inch of travel in it. Mine was actually off of a ACVW. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 Yeah i found out that there are multiple versions of the carb and some had the linkage in different places. Mine is on the same side as the stock car but it pulls "down" right into the manifold. It only has like an eighth inch of travel in it. Mine was actually off of a ACVW. Sup bro, I live over here by the Tacoma mall, I dont know if I got the parts but I have a few friends with some extra hardware. EOY ratsun club is up here too. Hey pumpkin!! put the sega controller down and come help the guy!! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Yes, genuine Weber 32/36 comes in left-hand and right-hand variety. If you get the wrong one it is a pain. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 convert the linkage to cable bu spending maybe $40 at tha parts house buy a univeral cable and mount braket in the dressup isle remove gas pedal knock out ball that holds linkage attatch cable and run threw firewall and attatch to firewall set up other end and cut cable to length desired no problems life is easy as for the egr stuff you said your replacing the intake why are you worried about it the aftermarket manis dont have the area for egr Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 If it's a direct replacement manifold it might. At this point, would you do this again? :D Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 convert the linkage to cable bu spending maybe $40 at tha parts house buy a univeral cable and mount braket in the dressup isle remove gas pedal knock out ball that holds linkage attatch cable and run threw firewall and attatch to firewall set up other end and cut cable to length desired no problems life is easy as for the egr stuff you said your replacing the intake why are you worried about it the aftermarket manis dont have the area for egr The Offenhauser manifold is built to accommodate the stock EGR. It has 3 rather large holes that need to be filled. Quote Link to comment
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