jrock4224 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 ....anyway my problem right now is if i leave the truck idling for extended periods of time its not charging the batt. i replaced the voltage regulator recently but am still having the problem of charging... is this a common porblem with stock charging system...it seemed to get worse once the rains came......ps can i use a stock steel , not cast, lower alt bracket for my saturn alt. swap. ????? Quote Link to comment
Jayden71 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 I have had problems similar to this with all my Datsuns. 2 620's a 720 and a 521. All l motors. They seem to barely charge at idle speed. Increase rpm and lights get brighter and such. One problrm I had on my 72 with L16 was it was not charging at all. Everything was replaced or brand new. Belt seemed tight. Come to find out the belt was slipping. It was really wierd cuz it was not squealing or stinkin or nothin. The charging systems are not real strong on these trucks Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 A problen with the L motors is that they rev fairly high, and to keep the alternator from over speeding, the alternator is not spun as fast at an idle as it would with a lower rpm motor. You cannot leave the lights, heater, wipers, and everything else on at an idle, because the alternator simply is not putting out much current, due to its slow speed. The stock alternator was only rated at 35 amps, not really enough to keep up with a lot of electrical accessories. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 A higher output alt. is needed. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) You cannot leave the lights, heater, wipers, and everything else on at an idle, because the alternator simply is not putting out much current, due to its slow speed.The stock alternator was only rated at 35 amps, not really enough to keep up with a lot of electrical accessories. Even with a 50amp alt in my goon it still sits at 11volts with the lights, heater, ect. on if Im idling, but when Im driving its at 12v or higher. Having a Voltage gauge is a big help in seeing what your charging system is doing. I highly suggest that be your next step in figurung out your problem. A higher output alt. is needed. also a big help to have, the stock 30/35amp is weaksauce Edited December 22, 2009 by Skib Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) I got a saturn alt 95 amper sitting there waiting i just gotta get on it... i thought all along i had a cast bracket but turns out i have a steel bracket that looks factory , just more angle iron looking ..anybody had luck mopunting up alt with this bracket on the lower mount instead of the cast one you have to grind down...anyway i kinda figured the low at idle thing.... been a reaccuring problem lately, leave'n my posers on when i am somewhere with it idling and coming back to no voltage.....this is my second alt.... my first was whisper quiet factory one till my buddy hooked it up backwards and fried the internals....just gonna throw that saturn alt on there, stop procrastinating....and just do it....the stocker i got on there is so noisey , it donest look like its slippijng but the racket its making could be slipping or a bearing about to go bad.... thanks for all the help .....should just do the swap, the writing is on the wall....thanks again everyone for the quick replys.... been working aon that stupid blazer for my wife.... dont buy a rig thats been sitting for 15plus years unless you wanna replace everything thats either hydralic , fuel , or seal related..... i feel like this 1971 blazer is gonna make me broke.... Edited December 22, 2009 by jrock4224 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) I hate the 521 stamped steel mounts. I end up putting a 510 one on there but I notice when I did that and putting a bigger alternator on there that the alternator hit the idler arm if belt was stretched. make noise and rattle against it. i guess it moves the pivot point out a little more. maybe get a L16 belt? I wonder if you just have a weak alternator? But if you load them stock 35 ers down they will loose some voltage but thats why you got to shut off stuff at idle. Wiper and heater draw alot. best to get a volt gage and you can see when it loads down I have a nissan 50amper and its fine. if you put that Saturn alt on there make sure to pull the external volt reg and make them jumper wires at the plug. Edited December 22, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 ps can i use a stock steel , not cast, lower alt bracket for my saturn alt. swap. ????? yes you can. just may need to grind a little bit on top. you'll see what im talkin about when you fit it. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 anyway threw a meter on there and low and behold 10+ volts....at high idle....seems that alt aint cutting it. the only thing i rarley run in the truck is the lights and i was having this problem....so before i wreck another red top i will have to put that sat alt. in ... maybe this weekend being a holiday ...and yes i already have the schmatic to jumper the plug... thanks hainz ...and it is a l16 i bought a 1/2 longer belt as was reccomended in the tech article..... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) pulled it allout and mcking it up on the garage counter will post pics this weekend when i get back to it....modded the bracket and will powder coat it this week......cant wait to have bright lights and charging at idle...cant workon it again till i get hte wifes 71 blazer stopping right... i have replaced everything in the brakes and still wont work right... left the expensive proportioning valve till last so its gootta be the culprit....gets some pics of both projects soon...i swear honey this is the last time i will ask you to help me bleed the brakes ..... Edited December 30, 2009 by jrock4224 Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 pulled it allout and mcking it up on the garage counter will post pics this weekend when i get back to it....modded the bracket and will powder coat it this week......cant wait to have bright lights and charging at idle...cant workon it again till i get hte wifes 71 blazer stopping right... i have replaced everything in the brakes and still wont work right... left the expensive proportioning valve till last so its gootta be the culprit....gets some pics of both projects soon...i swear honey this is the last time i will ask you to help me bleed the brakes ..... Jrock224, Can you provide a detail description and maybe a check list of your problems with the 71 Blazer Braking system troubles Any unique details , what's been replaced , description of procedures , etc... Thanks and would love to help with that problem if I could ! :D Let us know sooner than later friend ! DTP Quote Link to comment
mr68gts Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Is it different for a truck with a/c? I never had a problem with mine. Of course mine has the factory/dealer installed a/c. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 the blazer... so it started with the brake light coming on on the dash and the brakes feeling like only one half of them were working intermintently....after replacing all the calipers, pads and rear brake rebuild....it was wierd, you'd brake hard and half way through either the front or rears would fail to engage fully.... you could tell the difference between the discs to drums and in the snow I could physically see that both the front and rear brakes were locking up differently, if at all. so after rebuilding the front end, ball joints tie rods , drag link and what not, I took it to my bud at les schwab to have the alignment fixed cause it was all over the road and obviously out of alingment despite my best effort in making sure everything was the same length when it went back on... anyway I took it to my buddy at LS and said careful when you drive it I think my Proportioning valve is not working and I haven't replaced it yet.... the brakes will not stop you in a emergency....IE dont test drive it...just point the wheels in the right direction and i will come get it...ok cool.....go and get it and I get told, "if you adjust your rear brakes it will fix that pedal going to the floor problem"...I was like wtf...pedal going to the floor problem???...ok never did that till i got an alignment and secondly how will adjusting the rear brakes fix a bad booster ....So after I laughed my way out of the lot went to the next light and found , yes the pedal does bleed off and go to the floor.. I figured well maybe the booster being bad caused this intermitent problem....so I figured hey, if I'm getting a booster to swap I might as well buy the abnormally cheap m/c (30.00, never had a M/C be that cheap...) you know since I had to take the M/C off anyway......anyway put those on and it didnt fix the problem... still had the intermitent braking issues so I figured the part I originally thought was bad, was bad, ordered one. Since it was the last thing I hadn't replaced I figured it had to be the issue... so ordered one from www.inlinetube.com( by the way, need brake parts of any kind check them out....) threw it on .... convinced my wife this was the last time I needed here to run the pedal to bleed the brakes and low and behold ....other than new lines, a brand new braking system, works like a charm.... even proved to the wife I could spill everything in her blazer testing in front of my house....needless to say she was laughing as she limped off with a sore leg....from pumpin the pedal u guys. So blazer is back up and stopping....and running ok....man I tell you I would of thought twice about buying a vehicle that sat 15+ years after a restoration. I have replaced the entire brake system, the entire fuel system.....intake n carb, weatherstripping seals, basically anything that had a rubber gasket , or neoprene seal....oh and I still got to replace the rear main and seal for the tail shaft of the transfer case thats leaking from being dried out....buying it for 2500 was a steal. investing that, plus more , not so sure it was the best plan....but I can get my money back out of it if I, err she gets tired of it....its for my wife(wink , wink) The best part I can go back to my alt project on the 521, re jet my weber and hopefluuy have it up and running by monday again with a cleaner running and charging datto...by finish getting the saturn alt mounted up and wired correctly........ i will post a pic of the balzer if i havent alreay and some pics of my alt swap.... I am so happy to not be dealing in dot 3 brake fluid for a bit.... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Buying it from brother in law.....some time june or july maybe august .... After some work finished....brakes still skecthy at this point inch lift and 35's are next after i put power steering on it.....will get some under hood pics of the powder coating and intake and carb replacement.... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Seems the sheet metal braket needs very little grinding over 90 degrees of pivot with less htan a 1/8 taken off...gonna test fit for last time when daughter resumes napping... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 update on blazer...note to self..next winter dont bother with putting top on...leaks less with out it....wasted two nights making sure it shouldnt leak... and it leaks like a sieve...not to mention the rad condensation that forms cause of it... drive off in the morning and its like indoor rain...still stops good though Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 so can anyone verify the wiring for te three wired plug i have for my sat alt... its the plug withthe big s wire that i hooked to the yellow according to slodats write up.... in another post on the realm it said hook the yellow wire to the f terminal cause they used the two wire plug... i wired it according to slodat write up...am i ok to assume thats correct Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 so got it all bracketed an mounted, belt on...started truck, voltage read 11.75, never changed versus engine rpm, infact dropped involtage to 11.39 both read at battery and out put of alt....when i take a readi ng at the output stud it appears to read the voltage of the batt...(ie...back feading readin through harness...) its the same at batt terminals as the output stud...battery started at 11.79 before even starting...jumpered yellow to white, white with red to white with black at vlotage reg, at saturn plug i hooked the yellow to the s or sense wire and the white with black to the l for light/lamp cicuit...f (feild positive) wasnt used nor was p half wave rectified.... seems it aint outting out any voltage any suggestions... Quote Link to comment
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