Skib Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 you take a voltmeter to it yet? I dont have one, just my volt gauge Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I bet your fan belt is loose or worn out, 90% of the time this is the problem in your case at my work (im an auto electrician) I wish it was worn out, brand new unfortunately For some reason, on my Jeep I have to keep an eye on my belt tension. Especially after a installing new belt. I think my belt stretches...it's annoying, but I tighten it back up every once in a while when the lights start to dim. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
SHADY280 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 guys if you have an internally regulated alt, you dont need the external reg!!!!! take it off and throw it under the bench. i just did this, once you bypass the wiring of the reg it even turns off the charge light. no diode needed Quote Link to comment
BaKed Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 1979 datsun 620 kingcab forsale.....if i dont sell this piece of fucking shit i am gonna take it out to the desert and see what my desert eagle does to the mother fucker.....this truck sux, has wasted too much of my time and money....coulda have had a better vehicle than this a long time ago with the amount....no wonder they changed to nissan cause the truck is worthless....id rather own a yugo than this unreliable truck Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) would have been nice to see a volt reading. Shady a 79 would have a IR alternater already Most times its just a alternator or battery cables in this case. Buy the molded end ones. not the ones you pc together they are the worst. these are simple trucks. Hope he doesnt buy a caddilac Edited December 4, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
BaKed Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 im looking for a 510 possibly....i hate this truck....never rly like small trucks in the first place.....so if anyone knows where to get a 510 i will trade my 620....the engine runs great and the trucks is pretty much stock....i just dont have the time to be dealing with the fucking charging system....i checked, re-checked and the triple checked the wires....my battery will charge now but when i shut off the truck and leave it for about 20min my battery charge is gone...i got it tested @ autozone and Checker(O'Reillys) and the system says its charging correctly....im just tired of this stupid shit i mean my alternator passed battery passed.....everything passed but my truck still wants to be a fag....soo i would like to get it to someone with a passion for fixing this Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 get a test light. remove the neg batt cable place the test light pointy end on the battery post. then the alligator end on the battery cable that was just on the battery. Now this is in series. if key is OFF, you dont have a alarm of door buzzer dome light or anything elese ON the test light should be out. If the test light is ON you have a drain. try popping the fuse till the light goes out. till you find the circut that is bad. what I did on one truck is disconnect the out put of the alternator and the light went out. was a shorted diode which was killing the battery. clean battery ends. Icehouse told me once something about 620s shorting in the dash cause they made a wire just barely to short but cant remember. Maybe you can PM him. now if this fails then yes sell it cheap Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 get a test light. remove the neg batt cable place the test light pointy end on the battery post. then the alligator end on the battery cable that was just on the battery. Now this is in series. if key is OFF, you dont have a alarm of door buzzer dome light or anything elese ON the test light should be out. If the test light is ON you have a drain. try popping the fuse till the light goes out. till you find the circut that is bad. great advice Hainz, Im gonna go give that a try on the goon Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 To kill a fully charged battery in 20 minutes would be a hell of a short to ground. I've left high beams on for over 4 hrs and it still started. Borrow someone else's battery and see if that fixes it. Don't forget the clock will be on skib. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 Don't forget the clock will be on skib. I dont have a clock? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 im looking for a 510 possibly....i hate this truck....never rly like small trucks in the first place.....so if anyone knows where to get a 510 i will trade my 620....the engine runs great and the trucks is pretty much stock....i just dont have the time to be dealing with the fucking charging system....i checked, re-checked and the triple checked the wires....my battery will charge now but when i shut off the truck and leave it for about 20min my battery charge is gone...i got it tested @ autozone and Checker(O'Reillys) and the system says its charging correctly....im just tired of this stupid shit i mean my alternator passed battery passed.....everything passed but my truck still wants to be a fag....soo i would like to get it to someone with a passion for fixing this Sounds like a loose nut behind the wheel. :D Quote Link to comment
BaKed Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 Sounds like a loose nut behind the wheel. :D hey man i asked for help on this thread not stupidity....i guess when you can come up with a solution then i will consider listening to you....but stupid ass remarks like this does not make it any better Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 hey man i asked for help on this thread not stupidity....i guess when you can come up with a solution then i will consider listening to you....but stupid ass remarks like this does not make it any better anyone who dosent have a bit of tough skin and a sense of humor hasent figure out the way Ratsun works, so just relax ;) Quote Link to comment
SublimeDatsun610 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 the battery, harness or alt may still be at fault. the testing Equipt. at the local parts store is not always trustworthy. i know this first hand. my question is when this 510 you are looking for has the same problem with the charging system are you going to be kicking and screaming? first of all you are very immature and lacking the fundamentals of automotive theory. so slow down and calm the Drama Queen inside. i have been through this same scenario with many of my vehicles. you need to test the voltage with a meter! owning an older vehicle is not child's play. so do some studying up on automotive theory in your spare time. sorry to come on so harsh. to get this thing fixed it will require tools and the know how of using them. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 Test light was off, so I dont have a drain. guess its time to pull apart the harness :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I am still convinced the alternator is bad. 1) Having to run the lights/heater to keep voltage down is a classic symptom of a bad regulator and/or a shorted rectifier diode. 2) A draining battery when off is commonly caused by a shorted diode in the diode trio. 3) Disconnecting the battery of a running vehicle with an IR Alternator is a sure-fire way to cause both above issues. Back in the days when cars had GENERATORS this was a valid test... but this isn't a 1956 Studebaker. 4) Most parts-store clerks at the "chain" parts stores couldn't test a non-Delco alternator properly given a step-by-step manual. I had to take a '78 510 Hitachi alternator to 3 DIFFERENT Schucks stores before their tester would show it bad enough that they'd give me a warranty replacement, and I had to go through 2 DOA ones first before I finally got a working one. The reman ones are junk- I've had better luck just doing brush replacements on old Factory junkyard alternators than with "refurb" ones. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 hey man i asked for help on this thread not stupidity....i guess when you can come up with a solution then i will consider listening to you....but stupid ass remarks like this does not make it any better How old are you anyway? You're the one throwing a temper tantrum. Hate to break it to you... even though I was joking, I was probably right. Read my signature, and get over yourself. You have all the best oldschool datsun guys on ratsun in this thread helping you, and you have the nerve to act like this; 1979 datsun 620 kingcab forsale.....if i dont sell this piece of fucking shit i am gonna take it out to the desert and see what my desert eagle does to the mother fucker.....this truck sux, has wasted too much of my time and money....coulda have had a better vehicle than this a long time ago with the amount....no wonder they changed to nissan cause the truck is worthless....id rather own a yugo than this unreliable truck GTFO :mellow: Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 ya baked come down broski.. i know that shit can be nerve racking but he was jokin, an it was pretty obvious.. dont give up, you havent even done that much.. theres more things to check an maybe some wires to replace.. datsuns are the shit, an u know this so dont go dissin em.. and the trucks arent any worse then the cars.. look at skib he's got a 510 an he's have the same damn problem.. calm down, take a bong rip it'll be all good mang Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 Datsuns were no worse than any other make back then. If you switch to a 'yoda or hon-DUH! you'll be right where you are just different problem. The guy you sell it to for $100 will throw one of his spare alternators in and drive it home. If you stick with your Datsun you will have to be like all other owners... you will have to become an expert in how they work and how to make and mix parts to keep it on the road and unless you are rich, will be doing all the work yourself. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 my datsun will be on the road when its mad max time.. while lots an lots of other cars just sit in the middle of the road lol isnt it weird? owning a datsun.. i mean they're so cheap an easy to fix, none of us in our right mind would pay anyone to work on em.. an in a way you become an expert to your vehicle.. i've done alot of stuff to my truck over the years, search my started threads im sure you'll see.. but right now she runs an drives good.. no problems :) Quote Link to comment
Roadracer Al Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 Yeah, I know what you mean. I'm not one to let *anyone* work on my machines (cars, bikes, lawnmower, whatever), but when I got my 620, I started reading the forum.... ... backwards from the beginning. When I started, there were 110 index pages, and I got down to 78. I should keep going. Good way to help get to sleep and pump my brain full of Datsun knowledge. Because just spinning wrenches isn't enough, you have to know some basics and some specifics. Quote Link to comment
kezark31 Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 hey guys just so you know the auto zone and shucks(orileys) testers go on some type of resistance test not voltage. i just got done dealing with a customer 87 wangler. it has an ir gm style, anyhow with my meter hooked up the i was getting 11 and some change, check all the connections they were sound no resistance over .03. took it went to shucks ran the test 6 times passed all 6 times. I said wtf! went down the road to autozone same results. i asked if they had an in store meter they said no. zipped home grabed mine, went back to shucks had then hook it back up sliped the meter in closed the hood put out zero volts! had them pull one off the shelf hooked it up and bam 14 volts! hope this helps some one! baked do your self a favor buy a cheap 10 dollar volt meter or get a digital one for 20 harbor freight has them cheap. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) just to add some info to this thread, Iv gone threw everything, changed batt cables and changed the ground location cleaned connectors and added dialectic grease, unwrapped the harness to check all the splices, ect. I chatted with a friend Steve (Z Therapy) about it and it stumped him too. (if you know steve you know thats a hard thing to do) So Im going to take it down to his shop and hes going to take a look and change out harnesses alt w/e to find the problem and Ill drop back in if we find it. also, a mod should change the title to this thread so itl be useful for future searches. Edited December 8, 2009 by Skib Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Skib--i wondered if maybe you had a bad cell in your battery? And going over a bump moves things around inside the battery and makes a connection again? Just a thought My other question was, are you using those clamp on battery cable ends? Ive seen those cause problems. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Many batteries will test good if you only do a voltage test. All you need is 12.2 volts or so to look decent from a glance. A water cell test if not a maintenance free batt will tell you a bit about your capacity. You need to throw out more than you use to keep a charge. If your batteries capacity for charge is dead it will go dead fast even after constant charge. I have over 10 years of experience in datsun maintenance and over half of that was the same wrench throwing screaming uncertainty but time well spent. Throw in a new battery,an IR alternator from an 83 720 or such and inspect and clean all electrical connections and you should never have to worry again. I went through 6 alternators and 4 starters (all remans with warranty)one year before I realized I had an overcharging issue. Hindsight. I almost gave up many times,its just stupid electrical shit and it pisses people off but its actually more simple than we realize. And btw this forum is great but step lightly from the get go or they may tear you up.:Dasses Quote Link to comment
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