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sick of wagon leaf springs? Me too soooo......


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I'm building a urethane bushed ladder bar setup for my goon. i have been collection the parts and so last night i dove in. I have both bars made and my brackets all made up. my pinion angle is set at 2 1/2 degrees at a downward angle this setup will keep the axle from wraping under power. I used urethane bushings in the foward mounts for some articulation on the street. Now i have to setup the other side mount my spring and build the panhard bar to keep it going straight, Then adjust everthing once its done. i'm using 400lb coilover springs and normal shocks (which i may change to an adjustable version later). The drawback to this setup is it may push through a corner but hopefully it will articulate enough to NOT do that. it's suprisingly alot more flexable than i though it was going to be. time will tell its a experement anyways. heres a teaser pic I'll post more tommorow as i progress.



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Axle wrap is more of a leaf spring problem isn't it. Your set up won't allow the axle to rotate, only swing up and down through an arc hinged at the front mounting point of the ladder bar.


On a one piece drive shaft the pinion angle to drive shaft at the back should equal drive shaft angle to transmission at the front or you will have vibration. Like this:



Edited by datzenmike
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with the bushings up front it has lateral twist alot more than i figured it would, it suprised me. As far as the driveshaft, when you lower a wagon the pinion actually point's up into the floor,which is in turn is why the pinion comes up and slaps the floor board. with the bars set like they are my drive shaft points are on a even plane with the 2 1/2 degree downward angle and my lower bar is on a pretty even plane with the ground. so far all is well. now when i get the car on the ground i will need to set the bars up in a neutral position so their not preloaded in anyway and see how the car reacts (make sure it launches straight if not i may have to preload one of the bars to compensate.

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so here is some more pics from today got everything set and welded together i'm thinking of scraping the panhard bar setup and going with a diagonal link instead my panhard rod has to run at a angle from the subframe to the diff, to sneak pass that small gap between the gas tank and diff, and i'm afraid its going to try and push and pull the diff when traveling. That would not be good the diagonal link will serve the same pourpose but less complicated and with 2 heim joints on each side it cant bind up like a panhard bar can. heres a real cheesy pic of what i'm taking about.



here is more of the diff




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looks good and beefy in the new pics. They looked skinny in the first pic you took.


I think the heims will be alright seeing how you have the poly's on the other side. I was thinking about doing the same in a 4 link. One side poly and other heims.


Why not just use coilovers? Old subaru wagon, or miata ones from the JY perhaps. If your going on a budget that is. I believe they both fit 2.5" springs as well.

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i didnt use JY stuff casue I already had everything and i dont feel like crawling around in the mud and :poop:. I dunno if you can see in those lousy pictures but the bucket has a hole in the middle, i have a little aluminum hook thiny ma jigger (lol) that bolts in the holds the spring in the bucket, the same with the top. the car prolly wont be a daily driver much so the heim joints wont be to much of an issue. if they do wear out, just like anything else, i can replace them.

Edited by jesusno2
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they can piviot at all ends actually, like i stated above I think i'm going the diagonal link direction. instead of the panhard just for the simplicity sake. their is just not enough room under the car for a panhard bar to work well that i can see, unless you had a low short bar then maybe,i'm just not a huge fan of panhard bars unless you have the room to go straight across from the frame rail to the other end of the axle.

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Hey, I don't get it, so bear with me. If it only pivots from the front how can you have axle wrap? Doesn't the axle only swing up and down through an arc? For the diff to twist upward the two links would have to bend in a U shape.

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well datzenmike i'm not following ya LOL. This setup will have no axle wrap just like a drag cars use and some circletrack guys most circle burners use a parellel 4 bar setup. the axle can articulate for inclines,such as a driveway entrance etc. how much is yet to be seen. with me putting a floor jack under one side of the axle i can articutale about 4 inches before it starts to lift the car off the jackstands if this make sence. the wagons only have so much supension travel before the axle bottoms out anyway especially when their lowered.

ladder bar pic_thumb.jpg

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Looking good. If you made the arms longer the change in pinion angle would be reduced. Has any one ever looked at a truck arm rear suspension? Like the Neckins use in That Nascar. It is a copy of the chevy truck design from the mid 60's works awesome. Check out http://www.hotrodstohell.net. They make american cars handle. A 3 link with a watts link, wait I'll stop dreaming.

Nice Work



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Nice job Luke!! Looks awesome, at the rate that you keep adding projects in it will be on the road in 2012;)


BTW I also don't understand how the rear heims pivot.....oh wait, are the rear heims there so that it can pivot when one side of the axle moves up like when you when you put the jack under it? I originally thought it was there to pivot in a linear movement...

Edited by heirfaus
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Well the weather sucks anyways and datsuns aren't know for their great heaters, so I'll keep bangin away till its ready to go. My goal is to drive it to canby this year, so we'll see.I might be buying a house so my budget may shrink even more than it is now!

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