L20b intake/exhaust manifold removal/install

[copacetickid]

Was just gonna ask this on fisch's last post, but figured it might get hijacked...

 

HOW??? I spent 4 hours at pull a part today removing them to take home the intake manifold. I bent all kinds of shit getting them off, but what I really need to know (because I'm going to do it now) is how to put those two damned middle shared bolts on and get em tightened enough. The one above the pcv outlet doesn't even have enough clearance around it to turn a box-end 1/8th of a turn. But it was done at the factory, so there must be a way...

 

And hainz, you said not to replace the gasket? The one I pulled off today took half the gasket with it. Is ebay the best place to find one for cheap?

[RacnJsn95]

If I'm thinking of the ones you're talking about, I normally get then with a couple long ratchet extensions, and the socket on the end. Stick your extensions in under the intake. I've never had a problem.

[banzai510(hainz)]

copacetickid

I told Fisch not to replace if he doesnt have to(meraning dont remove the intake). He doesnt need to remove the intake/exhaust just to put a Weber DGV on. As I think the Offy manifold is overrated and he has just a stock L16 head on there wihich is small. Most improvemnt would be just to bolt the Weber up and run it.

 

As for the L20 stuff its a bitch to take off and if possible I would the Early L16 intake and exhaust manifold with the stock Y pipe for ease of removal or get a short tube header from Top End Performance so when one builds a new motor its just ezer to get to things.

 

as for the intake/exhaust gasket Felpro makes them and is carried by Schucks/Kragon/Checker

 

I always use new gaskets when I remove the intake.

[datsunaholic]

I've done this numerous times... I used a 12-point shallow socket, several extensions, and a universal. A 12mm universal-jointed socket would be even better.

[DanielC]

Here is how I put an L-16, or L-18 manifolds back on the engine. I assume the head manifold surface is clean, and the manifold to head surface is clean on the manifolds. There is three studs on the head that hold the exhaust manifold only. One on the center, one on each end. Put the studs in if they are not there. Put the gasket on. Put the exhaust manifold on, tighten the nuts finger tight. Just start the four bolts, with the big thick washers, that hold the exhaust and intake manifolds, without putting the intake manifold on, yet. Pull the large washers out to the end of the bolts. Carefully slide the intake manifold down on to four bolts, try to not touch the sticky stuff on the gasket if you are using a stock gasket. Start the four top intake manifold bolts, they center the intake manifold. Now all the bolts, and nuts should be started. Tighten the four top intake manifold bolts finger tight. Tighten the four lower intake manifold bolts finger tight, you need a socket, a universal joint, and a long extension to reach the inner ones. Now torque everything evenly to specs, I do not know what the torque is, my manuals are out in the garage.

[copacetickid]

Thanks Daniel. The main reason I asked is because the two inner (inner) bolts have very little clearance around them. When I removed the manifolds from a truck at Pull A Part, I had only enough room to put a 12mm box end on the two bolts from below, and turn it 1/12th turn at a time.

 

I don't have any shallow sockets or a universal joint, but it looks like I'm going to have to pick one up before I try to put it back together. Just remembering how much room there was (especially over the pcv hose extrusion), it's hard to believe I'll get them in there! Thanks for all your input guys.

[Jason]

I'm with these guys. I now use a 12mm shallow, swivel socket (cost me $10 :eek:) on a long extension for those suckers as well as the method described by Danielc. It used to take me 15 minutes with a box wrench, now it just takes a couple. Worth every cent for that socket man!

[datsunfish]

The main reason I love headers is because there is so much more room compared to a cast mani.Gear wrenches are a must.

[OL YELLER]

I invested in a set of swivel sockets...they are quite pircey but worth every penney when you do encounter this type of problem....and believe me when I tell you, the 620 manifold bolts are a walk in the park compared to some of the newer car exhaust manifolds...(I work in R&D for a Header Manufacturer and I can tell you some of the Mopar stuff is insane..just to name one!......Dodge Charger with the Hemi motor is a nightmare...) anyway, try to get those swivel sockets, they will save you so much time and grief.....

[copacetickid]

damn.... I mean damn. I went to sears today and got a 12mm shallow socket with a universal joint attached. Turned an hour job into a 30 second one. Worth every penny and then some. Thanks for the suggestion guys!

[blackdeth666]

Does anyone know the torque specs for the intake/exhaust manifolds?

[izzo]

I never liked torquing bolts to an aluminum head. I go till tight, then up to 1/4 turn. Never had one pop loose..

[datzenmike]

9-12 ft lbs

[sinner720st]

be careful also as some torque wrenches that click when up to torque are very light and hard to know if it "clicked", you could wizz right past 12 lbs. and overtorque, and possible strip head out (done it on cam tower bolt)

[blackdeth666]

Thank you my fellow mike!

[TENDRIL]

On the intake, where the water ports are, should i use some permatex gray to seal them or just leave it dry?