620connor Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Hey everyone hows it going. i was wondering what kind of motor oil you guys are running in your datsun trucks? and what weight of motor oil should i be running in my 74 620? -Thanks Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 10w-40 synthetic:D Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 oil weights / outside temperture 5W-30 below / 32 degrees and below 10W-30, 10W-40 / -25 and above 20W-40 / -12 and above single viscosity 10w / -25 and above 20w-20 / -15 and above 30 / 0 and above 40 / 15 and above this info is from my Datsun CLYMER shop manual 1970 - 1981 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Motors in good shape 10W30, poor 10W40, bad 40W. They were designed to run on them, and run a long time. Synthetic is fine if you can afford it but the advantages (if any) are really not worth the expense. Synthetic is so thin and slippery that it will squeeze past old gaskets and seals. Unless newly rebuilt with new crank seals, synthetic can and will 'leak' past them. L motor valve cover gaskets leak even with regular oil so expect it and on the fuel pump pivot pin and around the gasket there too. I put it in the tranny/trans case and diff. All started leaking so I replaced the seals. I wanted the best protection for them as they are harder to replace. The motor oil gets checked regularly and changed twice a year anyway. If it was hopped up I would. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 motor oil?Yes, i recommend it. I am running 10W-30 in my pickup. Sometimes I used 10W-40 which is better for hot weather (over 100 degrees). So they say. It doesn't make sense to me look the engine runs at 200 degree and above.... Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 oreilly brand 5w30, 1.99 a quart right now, get the k and n oil filter it is high flow and alot bigger than the other filters Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 Wait, let me get this straight, you're going for the GOOD K&N filter, but running cheap shit oil? Where's the logic in that? Valvoline isn't that expensive, it's like a dollar more per quart. Quote Link to comment
MAG58 Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 Brad-Penn 10W-40 with a Wix 51515 filter. Good stuff, not as pricey as the big dollar synthetics, still recommended by High performance 930 builders and a few other big dollar engine guys. FWIW for you guys old enough to remember the green kendall GT-1, that's what brad-penn is. The new GT-1 is crap. Quote Link to comment
TrevDaddy Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Ok so the last owner used 10W-40 full synth Mobile 1. Is this necessary? Can I go back to conventional Valvoline 10W40? I should do an oil change soon maybe even take off the pan, clean it up, and install a new gasket. I should also do the same to the valve cover while I'm at it. Maybe some paint for her too. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Clean the oil pan....why? Yes, no street engine needs synthetic oil. You can start putting conventional oil in. Most people put syntethic because of the advertising, or because they are unsure and it is the best. "Cheap insurance" is what I've heard several people say. Certainly there is nothing wrong with synthetic. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) Wait, let me get this straight, you're going for the GOOD K&N filter, but running cheap shit oil? Where's the logic in that? Valvoline isn't that expensive, it's like a dollar more per quart. i work at the parts house, the k and n filter is super cheap for me and i get the cheap oil by the case because my truck burns quite a bit , no sense in burning money!;) the filter however doesnt burn up, oil is oil anyways, there isnt alot, if any difference between pennzoil, havoline, valvoline, or castrol Edited October 19, 2009 by ghettobraden Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Wait, let me get this straight, you're going for the GOOD K&N filter, but running cheap shit oil? Where's the logic in that? Valvoline isn't that expensive, it's like a dollar more per quart. Parts Master is Baxter's house brand. It's Valvoline at half the price. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Okay, oil burning, I can empathize with that! :) Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 House brand 20/50 Quote Link to comment
TrevDaddy Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Clean the oil pan....why? Yes, no street engine needs synthetic oil. You can start putting conventional oil in. Most people put syntethic because of the advertising, or because they are unsure and it is the best. "Cheap insurance" is what I've heard several people say. Certainly there is nothing wrong with synthetic. I would clean it just to make sure there are no contaminants or debris getting sucked up in the sump. Who knows, could make her run a little better. Thanks for the tip on conventional. Quote Link to comment
Guest DatsuNoob Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Whatever's on sale. Change it frequently Quote Link to comment
Suspect Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 I use Shell 5W30 because its free at work.... same with the filter, Free. But if I had to pay for oil, it would be Castrol 10W30. I know about burning oil as well, my 85 Buick with a olds 350 in it burned 1 quart every 100 miles. I just got used oil from work and dumped it in. I used to have 4 gallons of used oil in the trunk. Quote Link to comment
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