what to use for rust in hard places to get to !

[72240z]

I think its become fairly obvious steve g is just ignorant about this topic.

 

If you think its cheap to buy and looks cheap after using properly you're just clueless. Just like you were clueless about being able to paint over it and the other erroneous claims that couldn't be backed up.

 

I think it's just a waste of time to argue it more, the pros are already proven and the cons are not. Who ever can take that into account and do what they like.

 

Edit :By no means saying or trying to say it's the best. Rust bullet is a very good product too. Eastwood makes some decent stuff etc... Each have their ups and downs. por has more ups then downs when compared.

Edited October 18, 2009 by 72240z

[steve g]

to prep an area properly for anything there would be no rust before application, sanding works and for tough areas media blasting is best, sandblasting is too aggressive. then an etch primer or epoxy primer... i use epoxy. if you presented this to any restoration or body shop they would lean twards my method by far compared to cleaning an area with a wire brush and wiping with lacquer thinner. Then POR-15?? this is backyard shit.

[72240z]

Once again proving your ignorance on the subject. por15 IS DESIGNED TO BE PAINTED OVER RUST. Says it right on the can.

 

I have a friend that parrots everything he reads like it's gospel even though he has no experience, reminds me of something I just can't put my finger on lol.....

 

Unsubscribing best of luck to all. :fu:

[steve g]

yes it says paint over rust... bondo says sand,apply,sand, paint.... yep it must be correct.

You call me ignorant? thank you! Im not the fool here.

This is the exact reason why datsuns dont sell for anything close to what they should. Hacks that follow the cheap line, i have seen it at datsun shows over and over again..... try hanging out with some real car restorers and see how its done.

[Z-train]

This is the exact reason why datsuns dont sell for anything close to what they should. Hacks that follow the cheap line, i have seen it at datsun shows over and over again..... try hanging out with some real car restorers and see how its done.

 

So now bondo & POR-15 is the reason Datsuns don't get a "fair market price".:blink:

[steve g]

that was in reference to the type of hack work ethics i see too much on datsuns.

the POR-15 and bondo comment was about what the can says,,,, if the can says "paint over rust" it must be right!!!! ok fine then who is the fucken parrot now? And yes bondo sucks....... body fillers are ok but not the BONDO line again used alot by cheap line backyard hacks.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

HAHAHA:lol::lol:, this guy sounds just like the dumb old bags that work down at the local body supply store. They are true experts on elaborate bullshit yarns they spin up from repeating half-stories, bits of actual facts, and other inconclusive statements they hear from the guys who actually use the products they sell. If you dont paint over rust with it, what the hell is the point of using the stuff? I mean it IS rust encapsulating paint. Are you a chemist? Rule is on most if not all automotive products, if you follow manufacturers' guidelines, you should achieve optimal results with their highly lab tested and researched product. Why wouldnt you follow the directions?:blink:

[78kingcab]

ive always used catalized primers and build it up nice , never had prob....but i was at jasons(yello620) and he used por 15 on a frame he was doing ...i had never used or heard of it....he talked it up and then ended with i could wack it with a hammer....i said i dont belive it he grabbed a hammer and ...well.....im shocked didnt even leave a mark.....i know i cant do that with my primer even though its good primer and i never had a prob with it....well i got a 2dr 510 now and i think im going por 15 with it....hope this stuff dont goo up on me:lol: well dislexic this is a great thread with great feedback.... maybe it needs a poll...so far its like 8 ta 1...

[steve g]

yep in a poll the por-15 would win here... but i keep forgetting this is a datsun world here where cheap, easy, free and half assed is common ground

[72240z]

Mmmmmm keep that ignorance flowing.......

[steve g]

Mmmmmm keep that ignorance flowing.......

I have seen your shit dude... you cant talk.... youre the typical trash that parks your car in the north 40, walks to the car show and bashes everyone elses shit.

[72240z]

Ya keep attacking since you can't back up a single claim you have made. It's 8 to 1 because everyone else is wrong right? Because every datsun owner is apparently cheap and half ass's everything? If thats your take why the hell are you here, on a site called ratsun no less? Seems really dumb to me, which follows suite I guess.

 

You can rag on my project car all you like, coming from you a person who has proven how little he knows it means absolutely nothing. You should take notes not talk shit, learn you how to do things the right way lol. :fu:

[steve g]

i am here to take notes, i have a 720 and have had tons of assistance from the other 720 owners. As for taking notes about refinishing the body of a car... i still do from professionals, hands on for the last 18 years. And never seen a top notch restoration with por-15

[Guest DatsuNoob]

yep in a poll the por-15 would win here... but i keep forgetting this is a datsun world here where cheap, easy, free and half assed is common ground

 

Since when the hell is POR-15 cheap? It's like $40+ a quart! Between my POR-15 and my tie coat, I'm invested about $200 for the whole rig (and I still may even need to buy more!), just so I can spend more money on topcoat! You clearly dont know what the hell you're talking about. Give us solid facts if you have some useful information to contribute, otherwise quit talking :poop: because you're not helping your image by preaching bullshit and trashing people's hard work/vehicles/passion/etc.

[DISLEXICDIME]

ive always used catalized primers and build it up nice , never had prob....but i was at jasons(yello620) and he used por 15 on a frame he was doing ...i had never used or heard of it....he talked it up and then ended with i could wack it with a hammer....i said i dont belive it he grabbed a hammer and ...well.....im shocked didnt even leave a mark.....i know i cant do that with my primer even though its good primer and i never had a prob with it....well i got a 2dr 510 now and i think im going por 15 with it....hope this stuff dont goo up on me:lol: well dislexic this is a great thread with great feedback.... maybe it needs a poll...so far its like 8 ta 1...

 

there is your pole :lol:

[steve g]

Since when the hell is POR-15 cheap? It's like $40+ a quart! Between my POR-15 and my tie coat, I'm invested about $200 for the whole rig (and I still may even need to buy more!), just so I can spend more money on topcoat! You clearly dont know what the hell you're talking about. Give us solid facts if you have some useful information to contribute, otherwise quit talking :poop: because you're not helping your image by preaching bullshit and trashing people's hard work/vehicles/passion/etc.

 

Since when has $40 a quart been alot of money? Even a quart of lower grade epoxy primer will cost 3 times that.

And i dont give a damn about my image here.... i find this fun.

Media blast and powdercoat or media blast, prime/seal and paint with automotive grade urethane.... those methods will look better and last far longer than por-15 could ever offer.............. but will cost a tad more than $40

[thisismatt]

that was in reference to the type of hack work ethics i see too much on datsuns.

the POR-15 and bondo comment was about what the can says,,,, if the can says "paint over rust" it must be right!!!! ok fine then who is the fucken parrot now? And yes bondo sucks....... body fillers are ok but not the BONDO line again used alot by cheap line backyard hacks.

Instead of saying such and such sucks, how about some recommendations?

[thisismatt]

Once again proving your ignorance on the subject. por15 IS DESIGNED TO BE PAINTED OVER RUST. Says it right on the can.

 

I have a friend that parrots everything he reads like it's gospel even though he has no experience, reminds me of something I just can't put my finger on lol.....

 

Unsubscribing best of luck to all. :fu:

I'm not trying to argue, but I would agree that it's on the ghetto side to "cover" rust in any shape, form, or fashion. Sure, certain products may cover it and stop it from spreading, but rusted metal is never an ideal substrate, no matter which way you look at it.

[steve g]

Instead of saying such and such sucks, how about some recommendations?

AS for body fillers (bondo) U-POL flyweight ...about $19.00 a gallon

or Rage Gold.... $23-28 per gallon depending on location. There are others.

As for replacing Por-15..... remove all rust... media?... sanding?? whatever..... coat in sealer (epoxy or etching is fine) then a nice coat of urethane 2k primer... sand smooth (wet ot dry.. 400-800 grit depending on type of paint) and paint (waterbourne base/ urethane clear... or single stage urethane) IF you can still get solvent base basecoats in your area more power to ya

[Tompsukka]

Havent you heard of hollow section wax? If old cars in finland wouldnt been treated with it when they were new there would not probably be any cars older than 15years. Today its not required for new cars to be treated with hollow section wax so many new cars start to rust badly in 5 years or so.

[Cuts metal like mad]

AS for body fillers (bondo) U-POL flyweight ...about $19.00 a gallon

or Rage Gold.... $23-28 per gallon depending on location. There are others.

As for replacing Por-15..... remove all rust... media?... sanding?? whatever..... coat in sealer (epoxy or etching is fine) then a nice coat of urethane 2k primer... sand smooth (wet ot dry.. 400-800 grit depending on type of paint) and paint (waterbourne base/ urethane clear... or single stage urethane) IF you can still get solvent base basecoats in your area more power to ya

 

Thats great for an IDEAL situation, but theres no such thing as an IDEAL situation. There will be areas where you won't be able to get to with any of those products, so its going to rust (and there will be patches of rust you can't reach). Too bad they don't make a product that would seal off that rust from the air to keep it from spreading. :rolleyes:

Edited November 24, 2009 by zuum510

[steve g]

Internal Coating Compound made by 3m works perfect for areas you cant see or prep very well. It is not pretty as its normally used in boxed unibody rails after a section has been replaced..... basically its not for areas you can see. It sprays through a Schutz gun... Still you should try to remove the rust if you can before application

[sfsoccerstud510]

I found some stuff at Home Depot, Its a thick pink liquid called "Rust Dissolver". I used it in my car, worked great.

[hogboy52]

I've used most all of the rust removal methods in the past but for quite some time I have used the electrolytic method whenever possible. I won't explain the process here but looking up electrolytic rust removal will give mass information.

 

A brake drum or exhaust manifold can be turned to clean metal in a five gallon bucket with no effort or expense. With a child's wading pool, doors, fenders, and trunk lids can be de-rusted. The electrons will pull out rust from the smallest seams.

You can find methods for treating floors or inside quarter panels using furniture cushion foam saturated with the liquid.

[datsun 160J SSS]

sand blast it :)