what to use for rust in hard places to get to !

[DISLEXICDIME]

ok so i have used por 15 on my floors of my 71 4 door and it worked ok. now with this 72 i just bought i am not sure i want to use it again! I also want to get in side of all the nooks and crannies in the roof pillars and quarter panels since i had to get water in every thing to clean out the mouse smell.

 

what have you used to fight rust and what where the pro's and cons ?

Edited October 5, 2009 by DISLEXICDIME

[ohpyramids]

i am in the same boat. why dont you want to use por15? i was going out to buy my first can tonight.

[DISLEXICDIME]

because if the metal is not clean it will bubble up and trap air and continue to rust

[hughdogz]

Kind of spendy, but there is tons of stuff for your project over at Eastwood

[AZhitman]

Use the POR-15. It's fine for application directly over rust, and won't allow continued corrosion.

 

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

[Figbuck]

I use a product called SEM Rust-Mort. it's the consistency of water and you can pour it into cracks and seams. I poured it into the insides of my doors and let it run out all along the bottom where I couldn't get to the seams. You are supposed to wait over night and it makes the rust inert for painting.

 

I get it at Industrial Finishes on Arctic Drive in Beaverton. Not very expensive and works so far. I also top coated it with rubberized undercoater because it is supposed to be painted or top coated.

 

There are lots of other products out there that do different things and work different ways. I use PPG metal cleaner and conditioner too and spray them out of a household sprayer bottle. a little expensive and you need both products.

 

I think Sem Rust-shield might be the thing for your application, but I have not tried it. The guys & gal at Industrial finishes seem to really know their products because they supply the local automotive refinishing business and get lots of feedback every day. They have always been patient with my ignorance and stupid questions.

 

http://semproducts.com/cms/Rust+&%3B+Corrosion+Protection/146.html

 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx

[Z-train]

POR-15 is the best product on the market and is EXACTLY what you want to use for "nooks & crannys".

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I made a little tool out of gauze fixed to the end of a metal coat hanger wrapped in bailing wire to get up inside of the hollow areas of my cab behind the rockers. Worked pretty well. I believe POR-15 to be a good product since it seems to have worked out well for me, havent really heard anything bad about the stuff. The know-it-all old broads at the body supply shop I go to looked at me like I was retarded for not knowing about rust mort, when I was buying my por-15. I really need to find a place with knowledgeable body work dudes that dont insult your intelligence based on gender competition, to get my supplies :rolleyes:

[72240z]

If you applied por15 and it bubbled up you did something wrong. 90% of my z is dipped in that shit and it's been open outside over 2 years. In the north east lovingly referred to as the rust belt. I didn't touch the poor thing for a solid year and the floor pans were tubs for months. No bubbling, no rust, no nothing. I even used their caliper kit for my brakes lol. Check the build thread out.

 

No loose metal, no oils, 2 coats = superior to anything else.

 

Tell you what too if you reduce and spray it you get a LOT of bang for your buck.

Edited October 15, 2009 by 72240z

[steve g]

SEM makes some great rust killer coatings. Talk to your local auto paint store.... POR-15 is a thing of the past, has too many negatives and has poor long term protection

[Z-train]

SEM makes some great rust killer coatings. Talk to your local auto paint store.... POR-15 is a thing of the past, has too many negatives and has poor long term protection

 

Please post proof of this.

[72240z]

Please post proof of this.

 

Seriously....

 

I have a 72 that proves the contrary.

 

What are these negatives?

[steve g]

rather than start a debate here i will make my point simple and clear.... Whenever POR-15 peels off or flakes the people who actually love this junk say it is because the surface was not prepped properly...... THIS IS TRUE!!!! But on that note any surface that is prepped well enough for por-15 to actually stick then why not use a good catylized product in its place? POR-15 can't be used under any new automotive materials other than crappy backyard quality paint such as enamel and still its not a good idea. Thats just the sum of why its crap..... If you love it... use it .... its not my car.

[Z-train]

1)rather than start a debate here i will make my point simple and clear.... 2)Whenever POR-15 peels off or flakes the people who actually love this junk say it is because the surface was not prepped properly...... THIS IS TRUE!!!! But on that note any surface that is prepped well enough for por-15 to actually stick then why not use a good catylized product in its place? 3)POR-15 can't be used under any new automotive materials other than crappy backyard quality paint such as enamel and still its not a good idea. 4)Thats just the sum of why its crap..... 5)If you love it... use it .... its not my car.

 

1)Too late

2)Agreed

3)Bullshit.With proper prep, any good etching primer will "grab it" just like metal.

4)Just as i thought-subjective opinon.

5)Not a matter of loving it-It's a matter of it never failing me.

[72240z]

Ya so basically you just don't like it. It's more appropriate to say that then bs about how por is junk, with too many negatives and a thing of the past....

 

Then not being able to back it up at all lol. Not only not able to back it up but list completely wrong shit as if it was fact i.e. number 3.

Nice try though.

 

It sounds more like you just don't know how to use it properly then it being a sub par product. That's just my impression though.

Edited October 18, 2009 by 72240z

[steve g]

if you prep "this means proper sanding" POR-15 to take an etching primer "etching primer as in real stuff from a paint store that requires a catylist" and spray it over por-15 you will soften the por-15 and at best it will just turn to goo. This is not opinion this is experience.... the results of actually doing repairs and preventive measures properly.

[72240z]

Right off their site.....Say nothing for my personal experience.

 

"CAN I PAINT OVER POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS?

Absolutely. POR-15 will accept all paints, including lacquer-based paints. POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer is the best prime coat to use before topcoating POR-15. Be sure to read thoroughly our directions and tip sheets regarding topcoating before using POR-15."

 

If you know paint then you know not all paints mesh well with one another. Not just por15, the point was and is if you do it properly you can paint over por15, contrary to what you claim is fact. Again it seems like you just don't know how to work with it properly.

[steve g]

and not one of the quality paint companies such as PPG, AKZO, and DuPONT will suggest or warranty it...... think about it...

And i have no clue how to use POR products.

[Cuts metal like mad]

Datsunoob and I have had no problems you speak of with por-15, the shit is hard as nails when its dry. He got a few bugs in the first coat, and THEY were hard as nails. As if they were infused with the stuff. He later sanded them out but the por-15 certainly hasn't turned to mush. We've even done a coat of filler on it and its sticking perfectly, no signs of failure or turning to GOO.

[Sealik]

This stuff works okay.... to remove rust/metal prep.

From Permatex

Phosphoric acid

Slather it on with a brush, wait...wipe and or flush with water.

[DISLEXICDIME]

interesting points of views and opinions guys its really helping me narrow it down thanks :D

 

 

Datsunoob and I have had no problems you speak of with por-15, the shit is hard as nails when its dry. He got a few bugs in the first coat, and THEY were hard as nails. As if they were infused with the stuff. He later sanded them out but the por-15 certainly hasn't turned to mush. We've even done a coat of filler on it and its sticking perfectly, no signs of failure or turning to GOO.

 

i didnt have goo issues either . But after reading all these different post's and remembering how much prep i had to do when i did the por 15 on my other car i might as well get the car's inside painted and the jams painted and the trunk and under the hood sprayed. I am still on the fence .

[steve g]

exactly! for the amount of time it takes to make this stuff do its job.... take a better route and use some quality stuff.

 

POR-15 is cheap, novice friendly, fun to play with and easy... thats why its loved so much and nothing more.

[72240z]

How hard is it to break up loose bits of rust and wipe the area with thinner? NO other automotive painting has an easier prep then that. If someone told me there was a paint you could lay over loose rust and contaminants with long term protection I'd call them a liar.

How much prep would be involved in laying traditional paint over rust vs using a paint designed for it? There is no argument to be had.

 

Some of my shit I didn't even take the time, hit it with a wires brush and laid paint right away and its been YEARS of NORTH EAST SALT WINTERS. Still holding strong. I find it funny people arguing its effectiveness that live in such easy environments. The merit of their opinion should be considered rock bottom. lol

[Z-train]

exactly! for the amount of time it takes to make this stuff do its job.... take a better route and use some quality stuff.

 

1)POR-15 is cheap, 2)novice friendly, 3)fun to play with and easy... 4)thats why its loved so much and nothing more.

 

1)Cheap?Not even friggin' close.

2)DEFINATELY not.

3)If you like paint brushes and are easily amused.

4)Bullshit.

[steve g]

the stuff is cheap.... look at the results and the price.