1980 200sx build

[athoose]

Oh, and I am glad to see another s110 owner on here. Where are some pics of your ride?

[Drahzzel]

The last major thing was playing with the CO meter on the AFM. It adjusts your air/fuel ratio and allows a side stream of air into the air pipe that the AFM doesn’t monitor. If you have a California model AFM the CO meter is sealed with a metal cap from the factory that is removable. I wouldn’t mess with your CO meter if you haven’t made sure everything else is right. Such as vacuum leaks, checking the ECU connector pins per the FSM, plug wires, etc…. Will an occasional misfire cause fail emissions test in CA? Also your state inspection may require it to meet a certain CO amount. I plan to check my CO down the road but I don’t have to pass an emissions test. Oh one other thing that helped was cutting that line from the charcoal canister to the intake. I haven’t checked out what’s going on with that but I suspect my canister is broke.

 

Yeah, the misfire at idle causes it to exceed the gross pollutant limit due to the high amount of hydrocarbons at the tailpipe. Everything else is fine and so low that it passes better than a new car and I've recently replaced all the hoses for the canister so there is no evaporative emmissions leaks as well so that works fine. Max CO% for my car is 2.00 and measured was 0.04 so it's running fine, just the misfire that makes the HC way over the max of 220...505 is what was measured at idle and only 27 at 2500 rpm.

 

As for pictures, there's a few in the member's gallery around the third page or so or click on the link in my signature. :)

[athoose]

Yeah, the misfire at idle causes it to exceed the gross pollutant limit due to the high amount of hydrocarbons at the tailpipe. Everything else is fine and so low that it passes better than a new car and I've recently replaced all the hoses for the canister so there is no evaporative emmissions leaks as well so that works fine. Max CO% for my car is 2.00 and measured was 0.04 so it's running fine, just the misfire that makes the HC way over the max of 220...505 is what was measured at idle and only 27 at 2500 rpm.

 

As for pictures, there's a few in the member's gallery around the third page or so or click on the link in my signature. :)

 

CA emissions suck! Anyway, can you figure which cylinder (or cylinders) it's skipping on? You can disconnect individual injector plugs or plug wires. Thought it may be hard to ID. I am always taking my plugs out to see whats going on, glad I have a 4 plug head. :D Maybe one plug stands out. ON the emission test does your idle have to be set at 800? Good luck!

 

I couldn't get that link to work last night. Anyway, it looks to be in great shape. You got to keep it on the road, hell maybe that'll take care of the skip.

[athoose]

So after a long hiatus I’m back at it.  I pulled the engine and transmission finding the clutch worn down to the rivets.  No problem I can get this.  Next issue …

 

So in my haste to put together a list of parts to order I decided to check the water pump and thermostat.  Here’s my problem, I mistakenly removed the water inlet and broke the lower bolt.  I spent the better part of today getting that bolt out but may have drilled too far.  The water pump bolt just below it was nicked by the drill.  Is the lower bolt hole on the water inlet drilled straight through the front cover exposing this bolt to the water pump bolt just below?  Furthermore, is sealer supposed to be used on these bolts?  Why is water getting to both of these bolts?   

[athoose]

So I called two machine shops to get a quote on having the flywheel resurfaced and they didn’t know if it was flat or stepped down.  The factory service manual says: if worn replace.  Anyone know?

[athoose]

Exedy OEM clutch kit and operating cylinder come in next week.  First order from Rock Auto … with a discount code … thanks Ratsun peeps! 

 

I’ll have the flywheel machined flat as it’s the prevailing opinion I’m reading.  For the question regarding the front cover, someone on Zcar stated that it was drilled open on their cover.  I’ll throw some thread sealer on the lower water inlet bolt as I will never take it off again and stick with anti seize on the water pump bolts.  I expected frogs to jump out when I pulled the water pump but much to my surprise it was clean, one cavity that wiped away and the water pump must be new.  I think this motor is good, knock on wood.  The white smoke I spoke of, I think, is just the anti seize lubricant that I slathered all over the exhaust burning up. 

 

I thought I had posted this before but one thing that helped with the electrical issues was getting rid of all die electric grease.  I read to do this, or was told, on a z car site.  It was causing problems.    

[athoose]

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11018

 

Nice s110 thread on JNC.

[athoose]

35. and a free bearing press, thanks Bo's! 

 

Thought this might be the factory disc and plate but the dowel was milled off.

 

 

Tested a new fail safe thermostat 180 and it opened up like 4x greater than the last one, earlier too.  Oh, the last one was a 192, no wonder it was running hot.  Put everything together with no sealer just anti seize. 

[athoose]

 

Gussets removed - I'll see if the NVH is to much.

 

 

I hope this purple stuff is Molybdenum, seems like it.

 

 

Exedy Pro-Kit is pretty impressive compared to any kit I've bought in this price range.  Hopefully it will perform well. 

 

 

 

 

Putting this in solo was painfully slow.  I need to buy a leveler. 

[LenRobertson]

It's great to see your project continuing. Pull n Save in Spokane has a 1980 SX coupe in the yard now. It looks fairly complete. If there are any trim pieces you still need, I can check the next time I'm there.

 

Waaay back on page 1 of this thread you mentioned wanting to convert to manual steering. datzenmike is looking for a power steering gearbox from one of these models. You might be able to trade boxes with him, although the postage might kill you. Maybe they aren't as heavy as I think.

 

Len

[athoose]

Thanks Len!  I would need the steering column as well as the box.  Yeah shipping .... ugly. 

 

How's that F10 coming along?   

[LenRobertson]

I didn't realize the column needed to be swapped too. I guess it makes sense since the boxes (I think) are different lengths.

 

When I was looking at the '80 SX at P&S yesterday, I forgot to look for the elusive chrome pieces at the back of the front fenders. Of course the odds are slim they are still on the car, but I should have looked anyway.

 

The F10 is on hold while I work on the 510. I made the 12 mile trip to the farm where I work in the 510 last week. First time I've gone any distance with it after the L20b and dogleg install. I've got a guy in Portland interested in the F10, but he doesn't want to trailer it. The engine is running, but the throttle cable housing needs fixing. And probably three dozen other things need to be done before attempting a 5 hour drive to Portland. I'll be sending the 510 to my bodyman real soon, then can work on the F10 while he is fixing the bad door and fender.

 

Len

[athoose]

I didn't realize the column needed to be swapped too. I guess it makes sense since the boxes (I think) are different lengths.

 

When I was looking at the '80 SX at P&S yesterday, I forgot to look for the elusive chrome pieces at the back of the front fenders. Of course the odds are slim they are still on the car, but I should have looked anyway.

 

The F10 is on hold while I work on the 510. I made the 12 mile trip to the farm where I work in the 510 last week. First time I've gone any distance with it after the L20b and dogleg install. I've got a guy in Portland interested in the F10, but he doesn't want to trailer it. The engine is running, but the throttle cable housing needs fixing. And probably three dozen other things need to be done before attempting a 5 hour drive to Portland. I'll be sending the 510 to my bodyman real soon, then can work on the F10 while he is fixing the bad door and fender.

 

Len

Eh, don't worry about those pieces, I can get by without them.  510 nice, do you have a build thread? 

[athoose]

New clutch and slave cylinder are working good.  Found my charcoal canister lines were switched up, explaining the earlier problem.  The canister has the hose connections in raised letters under the lines. 

 

Installed a fuel filter pre pump and it looks all right.  Wish I would have drained the old gas prior to firing her up after so long.  Think it's still running rough due to old gas. 

 

I don't know if the z engines distributor driveshaft are supposed to be at 11:28 like the L but mine looks like it's almost 12.  Anyone?

 

So I've got a couple weird noises, tried to record them but ... don't know if the sound really comes across. 

First one is a ticking which may just be the valves needing a better adjustment but they are close. 

 

 

Second one is a whirring sound at idle, goes away with a little throttle,  I really don't hear it in this video though it was there.  Thought this might be the timing chain.  

 

 

Undid the belts and it was still there, nothing stands out in the valve train though the timing chain has some shine to it.  Any ideas?

 

[athoose]

Changed the fuel hose, injector seals, and most vacuum lines.  Still need to figure out something for the large intake tubes.

Glad I took these oics prior to dis-assembly.

I had some Goodyear 8mm hose and it's outside diameter is like 14.2mm.  I don't think it will work with the cups.  My plan was to remove the cups and install a clamp but I did a test fit and it sliced the hose.  I've read a lot of different things about what hose size to use.  Anyway, I came into some BMW D8x13mm fuel hose which seems really tight, tighter and less flexible than the Goodyear and it fits in the cup.  It almost snapped into the cups when I seated them.  Apparently these cups hold the hose and keep it from bursting out.  I used the Goodyear for none barbed fittings and the BMW hose for barbed fittings.  Also space around the barbed fitting on the fuel pressure regulator is so tight getting a clamp on it is about impossible. 

Picked this injector up in a junkyard, having it let me try out different things before I did anything on my four.

A few measurements helped a lot with reassembly.

Soldiering iron was great, I even used it to get the large o-rings off.  Small ones in the manifold I just pried out with my finger.  I had no idea how flexible this rings are new.  The old ones are like granite.  Might want to let the injector dry off before using the iron, I noticed embers on the soldering iron tip but wiped them off on the wet sponge.

So I cautiously placed the rail and wiggled the injectors in.  I didn't crank the holders down, there's about a 1/16th of an inch gap between the metal plate and the plastic holder.  I can see that the small o-rings are ballooning out and sealing.  I slowly tightened each holder bolt to keep all four with about the same pressure hoping not to break a holder and to get a good seal.

Running better, no leaks so far. 

[its_karl]

Thinking of picking up an 84 200sx, any advice or problem areas i should especially pay attention to?

[MikeRL411]

ATHOOSE, You have just learned the practical difference betwen German and Japanese metric fittings.  They are not necessarily interchangable!  It's like SAE and BTS, set up to be interchangeable during WW2, but the board is still in existence because we are "still two people separated by a common language" to quote Winston Churchill.  Example, the 411 Datsun series is supposed to be all SAE, but the oil pan drain plug is SAE "semi finished" go find that in your local hardware store!  It's almost like a SAE pipe thread but not tapered.

[athoose]

Thinking of picking up an 84 200sx, any advice or problem areas i should especially pay attention to?

 

84 is the first year of the S12

 

this site has a good amount of info http://club-s12.org/retro4/

 

Other than that ... the 84 models had a solid axle, 85-88 had IRS. 

 

ATHOOSE, You have just learned the practical difference betwen German and Japanese metric fittings.  They are not necessarily interchangable!  It's like SAE and BTS, set up to be interchangeable during WW2, but the board is still in existence because we are "still two people separated by a common language" to quote Winston Churchill.  Example, the 411 Datsun series is supposed to be all SAE, but the oil pan drain plug is SAE "semi finished" go find that in your local hardware store!  It's almost like a SAE pipe thread but not tapered.

 

To many systems my head is going to explode. :wacko:

[athoose]

Finally had to give in and take the time to fix the rubber intake pieces.  Found this one on an Isuzu, used a Dremel to clean it up a bit. 

I couldn't find a second piece that wasn't cracking so I went to several parts stores before a counter person mentioned they'd seen something like this in the back. 

Dormans is now making air intake hoses.  They only had one in stock and it was for an S-10 but it was close enough and for 8. dollars I decided to work with it.  One side was a perfect match the other side I added a rubber spacer to shore up the difference.  It does have a hole in the side which I used for the VCV/Air regulator hose eliminated on my first hose.

I need to check again but I think this cured my smokey tailpipe.

 

Next up, tired of the "lower" wiring harness running across the floor, so I curved it up and attached under the dash.

Before

After

so no longer a thick bundle of wire right were you put your feet.

 

Next up - the box had both M/T and A/T part numbers, thankfully it was the M/T

$80.00 to my door, pretty stoked about that! 

 

BTW, Len or s110 owners, I have totally forgot how my hood release cable is routed.  If anyone can look at theirs or check one in a junkyard it'd be grateful. 

[LenRobertson]

I plan to hit P&S Saturday. If the SX is still there I'll look at the hood release cable.

 

Len

[athoose]

I plan to hit P&S Saturday. If the SX is still there I'll look at the hood release cable.

 

Len

 

Thanks Len,

 

Basically I can't recall if it goes out through the firewall were the engine harness goes out (through a rubber seal) and goes underneath the fender somehow.  None of my pics really show it in the engine compartment.  I keep thinking it went through a body channel underneath the fender but to do so it has to take an awkward path out through the door jamb and barely reaches the latch.   Hopefully the SX is still there. 

[athoose]

I found this oil bottle at Harbor Freight and it worked well today.  It didn't dissolve and stop working like ALL spray bottles I put solvents into.

 

 

Radiator is in and working well,  I even used distilled water.  BTW, if anyone has found a solution to the heater control cable clamps please let me know.  The clamps that hold the plastic sleeves with the wire inside, mine pop off at will. 

 

 

I kept reading posts stating you need slop at the release lever.  I got none on mine.  This means the release bearing is always touching the clutch fingers if ever so lightly.

I do have slack at the clutch pedal (it moves 1cm before pushing the CMC rod and thus applying force to the clutch.   A little push forward (towards the front of the car) on the release lever and it takes the bearing off the clutch but it immediately moves back to contacting the clutch when released.  I did notice a drop of brake fluid coming out of the back of the CMC every now and then so I thought it's got a leak and perhaps a loss of vacuum wouldn't allow it to suck the bearing back, off of the clutch.  So I put a new one on today and ... same results.  So I'm of the opinion that it just rides on the clutch. 

 

[its_karl]

maybe the clutch fork pedestal is adjused out too far?

[athoose]

maybe the clutch fork pedestal is adjused out too far?

I didn't think it had an adjustment.  Does it?  If not, I guess it could have backed out.  I could always put in a return spring.  Maybe other parts are just worn out.  I know my 240sx had small plastic bushings in the return spring on the pedal that if they broke the spring sagged. 

[LenRobertson]

Back from Spokane and Pull n Save. The poor SX was still there awaiting its time to go to Datsun Heaven by way of the crusher. Sad.

 

The hood release cable goes through the firewall in the same hole as the ECU harness. On the engine side of the firewall, there is a small  triangular plate welded in the corner where the firewall meets the inner fender (right below the hood hinge). Just below this plate, there is an almost hidden hole through the inner fender the cable goes into. It continues along inside the inner fender until it emerges just forward of the air filter box. It then makes a gradual 90 degree curve over toward the hood latch. Right behind the air filter box is an oblong hole through the inner fender. I could reach in and find the release cable through that hole. The hole may be there to help in working the cable through. Have fun!

 

Len