athoose Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I have to give it gas while cranking to get it to fire up. I have to continue to keep the rpm Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Sure, unbolt the fuel injectors and lift away from the intake leaving the fuel rail and lines connected to them. Remove the high voltage coil wires to the dizzy cap to prevent a possible fire. Lay several rags under the injectors to soak up any fuel. Hold the injectors up so you can watch them fire and turn the ignition on. I believe there is a timed relay to turn the fuel pump on for several seconds until the starter engages. With fuel pressure, the injectors should be off and able to hold the pressure without leaking. Crank it over with the starter and all injectors should fire together with every turn of the crank. The injected fuel should be a fine atomized mist and not a spray of droplets. The spray should be clearly defined and no dribbling or leaking between pulses Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Thanks Mike Got a good spray Did notice that after drying the injectors with no power or pressure to them they leak slowly. These damp spots on the cardboard appeared within minutes and continued. Not sure if this leak is bad enough to cause such bad misfires. Perhaps it leaks more when running. The injectors did leak about the same while they were getting power/pressure with the ignition switch on. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted May 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Recently... I ran an EFI troubleshooting tip from the FSM and got a weird result. Tip per FSM Connect a lead wire to ignition coil negative terminal. With ignition switch Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Cleaned my throttle chamber and put it back on even though I didn Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Took my fuel tank off today and it looks rough. Was going to clean it out and line it but it looks very rusty and it Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Wow, that tank does look a little rough. Are just the baffles plastic? Unless its a pretty damn big tank, I wouldn't thik it needs baffles. They are probably brittle as hell, break them up with somthing and get them out of there! Then proceed with the normal cleaning and coating of your tank. Quote Link to comment
denveratsun Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 :eek: Best of luck with that tank man! There is one of these cars for sale here in Denver for 400bucks. Blue like yours.:cool: Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 I was bored so I disassembled the sender and cleaned it, got it working again. Still need to clean it a little more. So I am testing the molasses for rust removal. My hope is to use it to clean out my gas tank. This pic is the headlamp buckets after 5 days maybe, looking good. They were solid rust. The next two picks are of a 1200 coupe gas tank I grabbed at the JY today. If my tank doesn't clean up I will use it. It is in great shape. I think the 1200 only had 50k miles on it. Funny, every cat that walked by today had to talk about the 1200. Most said they had one at one point ...BS I say. I even heard some foreigners talking, all I could make out was "120A". Ha ha. Rest of my haul today, belts came out of the 1200 but are not original ... I assume. Check out that 1200 fuel sender. I don't know why but I pulled the data plate. Some parts from ebay. Ball joint and filters. Two dollar lens F and R pads, same price as aftermarket. Grease seals 4 front caliper rebuild kits, cheap Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Got some GL4 at napa today, 25. ouch and a hinge kit 675-5157. Had the ID/OD sizes but couldn't find the right kit. Searched online and the kit/install came up on NWDA. Awesome. Trimmed the bottom and put in a groove for the c-clip. Found this cat-back for the 80 200sx on classic garage. They said it was the last one. 142. shipped, not bad. "The muffler used by Ferrari" ... on a datsun. :lol: Plenty of cool looking stickers on this.:blink: Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Plenty of cool looking stickers on this.:blink: Ya they always come with those stickers on them. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 I am looking at getting new struts up front. I am unsure of the parts I need. What comes in the strut kit? I think I need a gland, o-ring, and bearing then look for worn, cracked parts on the rest? I am not sure on any of this as I Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 So I am looking at this insert kit and the seller is not sure if all parts are included. It looks to me like two glands or holders and two lock nuts. But what is that big washer? Basically can I make this work? It is for a 200sx. Quote Link to comment
denveratsun Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 All those parts look like work to me!:blink: Keep it up man...It's gonna be one of the only ones on the road when your done. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Recently... I ran an EFI troubleshooting tip from the FSM and got a weird result. Tip per FSM Connect a lead wire to ignition coil negative terminal. With ignition switch Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 At first I thought this was a swap but if you check out the road test it's factory. Netherlands 1980 180sx with L-18 and dogleg 5 speed. Looks like it might be EFI as well. Webpage I pulled it from http://members.quicknet.nl/fjp.roos/silvia.htm Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 All those parts look like work to me!:blink: Keep it up man...It's gonna be one of the only ones on the road when your done. Lot of work for sure and sadly I think it will be a rarity. Seems like a lot of people had these or had experience with them and in general liked them. Hey if it runs... it runs ok. It runs let it be or it runs and you need to figure out whats going on before the engine explodes and the car burns to the ground? :lol: Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Wow, lost track of this thread. The injectors all fire at the same time and fire once for every turn of the motor. For a four stroke this means half the fuel needed is supplied with every turn. The ECU should fire the injectors every other spark plug firing. (should) Hey if it runs... it runs ok. So I took the injectors off so I could visually check the injection. Indeed, each time the -coil is grounded the injectors fire. Whereas the injectors should fire every other spark plug firing (or - coil grounding) as stated. Could it be the ECU is somehow getting the signal twice due to a short? And no it's not running all that great ... no power. So Ive got to figure this out. :lol: It's driving me nuts! Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Picked up another Control Unit and it's doing the same. Each time the coil is grounded the injectors fire. :( Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 So as much as I don't want to, I may have to carb this thing to get it going. F/I is great ... but I'd rather have a running 200sx then yard art. Anyone know of a write up on swapping FI to Carb? Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I think it would be a total waste to go carb just because you have a wiring issue. Thats like cutting your nose off because you have a sniffle. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 So as much as I don't want to, I may have to carb this thing to get it going. F/I is great ... but I'd rather have a running 200sx then yard art. Anyone know of a write up on swapping FI to Carb? Check the numbers on your ignition control units... since you swapped in one you got from mike, its probably a long shot, but if the numbers are different, it could cause it to run funny?? Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I think it would be a total waste to go carb just because you have a wiring issue. Thats like cutting your nose off because you have a sniffle. Just my .02 A running carbed car is better for me than a non-running F/I car. Check the numbers on your ignition control units... since you swapped in one you got from mike, its probably a long shot, but if the numbers are different, it could cause it to run funny?? No change. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I'm sure running is better for everyone not just you lol. My point was to fix the problem properly not just eliminate it. I know your frustrated, saw your threads on zcar and what not. Quote Link to comment
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