1980 200sx build

[athoose]

I've got access to an blown z22 carbed 8-plug motor in a truck. What all should i grab to convert mine? Carb, intake, mechanical fuel pump, what else?

[datzenmike]

The Z22 uses a 3 pound pressure electric fuel pump, although an L series mechanical pump will fit on the head and work if you install a cam eccentric. You cannot use the 200sx fuel pump.

 

On the EFI:

 

Go to the Throttle Position switch and with a meter check that the Blue/White and the Blue/Red wires are open or not connected through the switch, at idle, and up to 1/3 open throttle. This tells the EFI to run richer for performance.

 

Check the Blue/Yellow and Blue/Red is closed or connected at idle but not at any other position. This switch tells the ECU to set the proper lean mixture for idle.

[72dat]

Wow! this is awesome! I had an '83 a couple of years ago which never ended up getting finished. Now I'm focusing on my B110, but am definatly following this thread. Out of the five years of owning my 200sx I never once saw another one.

[athoose]

So I

[athoose]

So I pulled all wiring, diodes, resistors, fuses, relays, etc... I removed quite a bit of nonessential wiring and components and tested the rest. I replaced a few wires that had a little too much resistance and cleaned everything up. All in all the electrical system is pretty straight forward and simple. Nothing was burnt or out of whack, which is hard to believe given the amount of factory crimps and electrical tape. :eek: Everything is back in the car at this point and all is working well with the exception of the injection pulse. So I think I will try a third ECU, a new one. I really can

[athoose]

Link for silvia s110 part numbers and lots of other datsuns/nissans, Europe and USA.

http://nissan4u.com/parts/silvia/el_s110/1980_1/type_1/

[datzenmike]

The ECU pt # for a non Calif. '80 standard is 22611 N8502

 

The ECU pt # for a non Calif. '81 automatic is 22611 N8512

[athoose]

That link is on the L18E s110 for Europe. If you go to the main page you can choose the USA s110 or other cars.

[athoose]

Scored the final headlight I needed in the JY the other day. Well I thought that was the reason the headlight sensor was buzzing, not so. Well upon closer inspection it

[athoose]

So the dimmer relay is not on the 80 200sx FSM diagram. It is not the same as the 81 200sx.

 

This is what I

[athoose]

Right now I have an aftermarket fuel pump. I scored an OEM fuel pump at the JY that I think will work on my 200sx. It came off an 82 810. I do have one question.

 

The 200sx has a check valve (3 in diagram)

 

http://nissan4u.com/parts/200sx/us_s110/1980_6/type_1/fuel_and_engine_control/fuel_pump/

 

The 810 has something else which I suspect is a check valve. Anyone know?

 

http://nissan4u.com/parts/datsun_810/us_910/1982_6/type_1/fuel_and_engine_control/fuel_pump/

[athoose]

I got out the DVOM and went through the injector circuit again and checked voltage at each conection. I swear these connections have to be spotless. Anyway, while cranking with the coolant sensor disconnected and a noid light connected I am seeing a good pulse to the injectors. So I think the control unit is fine. Got a weird reading on the coolant sensor but after a cleaning it looks alright. Plan to check the battery and alternator next. Looks like I am getting close, it sounds a good deal better but it is still refusing to idle.

[LenRobertson]

athoose - I hit Pull n Save today and found a '80 200SX. I grabbed the only rear-of-front-fender chrome trim piece, but it is the passenger's side and I think that is the side I already found for you. If I find a driver's side, I will send them all. Cheaply made, so lots of spares is a good idea.

 

Anything else I can look for on the car when I go back?

 

I hope you get your FI, or whatever problem solved, and post the solution. I still have a Z22E engine that is supposed to be good but quit running for the PO after she washed the car. I think about using it in my 510, but trying to troubleshoot the non-running issue scares me off. I've thought of hacking together an engine stand to try to get it to run in my shop before installing it.

 

I suspect I've already suggested buying the Nissan factory shop manual off eBay. If you wait awhile, you can find a cheap one - ten bucks or so. They usually have way more info than a Haynes manual, although sometimes when you search for certain specific info, it just isn't there. My '79 SX factory manual breaks a lot of the wiring down into individual systems, making it much easier to follow.

 

Len

[athoose]

Hey Len,

 

spares would be good. Thanks!

 

If its a 1980 federal 49 state 200sx with the matchbox dizzy, you could throw it on one of your rides really easy. Just make sure to keep the plate thats bolted to the bottom, you'll need that. Of course, if you don't want it I'll take it;).

 

I do have the factory manual and did get it cheap on ebay. I also have the haynes. I usually consult both as sometimes they differ, or one gives a little more info than the other.

 

Yeah troublshooting something I've never heard run proprely is getting old. But I think I am getting a good idea about the motor/car and would be able to offer some insights if you decide to go with the Z22E. May want to wait and see if I get it going though:lol: ... or you could get yours going and tell me what and the hell is wrong with mine.

[LenRobertson]

I don't remember seeing a Matchbox on the SX, but it may have been gone. Matchboxes and carbs are usually the first thing to go from Pull n Save Datsuns. I wonder what people do with all those carbs? I can't imagine carb rebuilders still need many Hitachi cores. But if the dizzy is still on that SX I can get it for you if you want it. Let me know. We got snow here yesterday, so my Pull n Saving for awhile will be things easy to get to without crawling under the car. Dizzys are good that way.

 

Yeah, I should left the Z20E in the car so I wouldn't have to think about what to do with it. One idea is using the FI pieces on an L series engine like the "Dime Quarterly" article from a few years ago, but I need a manifold. Also, knowing the engine quit because of some failed component makes me wonder how to find which bad part it is before trying to use it for an L FI hack.

 

Len

[athoose]

Yeah it may not be worth getting if its missing the matchbox, as the part man would charge the same price with or without. Of course, if you can get it for like 5 dollars or something it would be worth it. Just make sure its a 4 plug one, like that pic on page 2 of my build. Of course I think even the 8 plug california dizzy will be desirable but I don't need one.

 

I see carbs at my local pic and pull but never an Electronic Ignition on a datsun. Somebody must be going out on a really regular basis. Naps Z motors almost never have a head.

 

Yeah, I like fuel injection. Tired of carbs. If I can get the FI on my 200sx going I may add FI to the 620.

[LenRobertson]

I'll see if the dizzy is still on the SX. Their price for electronic distributors is $17 with a $4 core charge, plus about 9% sales tax. I may have a matchbox dizzy from a Z20 out of a '80 or so 510. I remember getting it at P&S for my '72 510, but blew the head gasket before I got it installed. After I bought it I recall reading the Z20 dizzy has a different advance curve compared to L20 version, but might not make a bit of difference in a street L engined car. I must have about 6 matchbox dizzys now, and the only one in a running car is in my '79 SX.

 

I was just looking back at the pics of your SX at the start of this thread. I had forgotten what a cool looking car it is. I don't remember the last time I saw one of these here in E WA, other than at P&S. When I bought my '79 SX, the dealer had a 2nd gen SX also. I really tossed and turned over which to buy (and considered buying both. Probably should have). Fear of fuel injection on the newer one finally made me choose the '79 (and it's simple carb which I've never quite got running right). I do remember the newer SX had a much better seat and driving position, compared with the '79.

 

Len

[athoose]

25. plus shipping with the matchbox include sounds like a real good deal to me. So I'll take it if you can get it. Just try to make sure the breaker plate is alright, no wobble in the shaft. I am actually rebuiling my old broke dizzy right now. I put in bushings and I've rigged up the broken breaker plate with a few screws and bolts that will still allow the vacum advance to work(new breaker plates are 70. dollars). I think it's going to work but you never now. I'll post a "how to" if it doesn't grenade when running. I am waiting on a new reluctor and stator for it.

 

Yeah I really like the s110, great lines and 4 wheel discs, 5 speed, EFI factory is really nice. I totally agree about the driving position, it is nice. Grab the next one that comes up for sale, it's not like they cost an arm and a leg. Personally I envy both your 79 200sx and F10, so don't kick yourself too hard. ;)

[LenRobertson]

I'll be in Spokane tomorrow, and will hit P&S if time permits. I'm having trouble getting the piston out of a rusty clutch slave cylinder. I may just go buy another cylinder, since I already have a rebuild kit.

 

Bushings! Bushings! Where did you get distributor shaft bushings? I've asked this question on forums a couple of times and never got an answer. I've never tried Nissan. Maybe they are still an available item.

 

Len

[athoose]

From what I saw on diagrams nissan will not sell just bushings. I got mine at o'reillys. Rock auto has them as well, probably others. Interestingly, all give two options for both the top and bottom bushings, .627 and .6299 OD. I made a thread on here asking which to use ... no real answer. I went with .627 top and bottom but after installing them I saw a write up that suggested the .6299. I slid both sizes on at Oreillys and they felt the same on the dist. shaft, and the OD on both would necessitate pressing the bushing into the housing. Hopefully this little difference won't matter, perhaps the individual who suggested the .6299 was guessing as well. I think the original bushings are aluminum, whatever they are a magnet isn't attracted to them. The new bushings look to be bronze.

Edited November 19, 2009 by athoose
spelling

[athoose]

My attempt to save 70. on a broken breaker plate. The three nuts and bolts are placed to avoid disrupting anything. Once a new stator and relustor for the dizzy get here I'll slap it back together and verify if it works while running.

 

 

[athoose]

So in December I ordered a new reluctor, stator and few other parts but my order kept being held up when parts couldn’t be found. Eventually I cancelled and got my money refunded.

 

Last week Jefe de Jefes hooked me up with a dizzy that had the parts I needed. So, I used the distributor body from it with good bushings. The bushings felt just a bit tighter than the ones I replaced in my old dizzy body. I did use my “reconditioned” breaker plate pictured above. I did remove the bottom blued thin plate the nuts rested on as it is possible this plate could turn and cause problems. I filed the nuts down until the plate slide easily. Then I put everything back together. So far the dizzy seems to be working great.

 

So yesterday I got it to idle around 700 rpm but it was pretty rough. So I started pinching hoses off one at a time. I found that when I pinched the charcoal canister purge line to the intake manifold the idle went up and ran much smoother. Any thoughts about what this means? Anyway, for now, I set the throttle stop to have the throttle chamber open a bit with the purge line pinched and it’s idling at 900-1000 rpm and sounds good. Drove it up and down the driveway and did a few burnouts. Power seems kind of low but I am not really sure what to expect. Could be the clutch is slipping :rolleyes:

[athoose]

Finally got the F/I worked out. It will start up cold and run smooth until warm, idle smooth at 800 rpm etc… Couldn’t be happier except its blowing smoke when I tach it up. The valve guides are bad; I can see a visible movement on the valves when I push them side to side. The compression is fine, but I am wondering if the oil rings may be bad. Is there anyway to tell if the oil rings are stuck/bad without pulling the pistons?

 

Also, if this indicates anything, I noticed light smoke comes out of the oil cap hole in the valve cover when I take it off after stopping the engine. No smoke from the dipstick.

[Drahzzel]

Finally got the F/I worked out. It will start up cold and run smooth until warm, idle smooth at 800 rpm etc

 

What did you do to finally get it fixed? I've got a coupe version that i'm working on as well so I have been following your thread since the beginning. Currently I have a misfire at idle that has mostly gone away since replacing the spark plugs and wires. It idles at about decently at 800rpm and pulls well into 6500rpm. Seems most of the power is down low like yours so it must be the way it is supposed to be. ;) Unfortunately for me, i'll have to find the source of the misfire soon...fix it tickets for current tags in california are more than enough motivation to get things done sooner rather than at my leisure for me...lol.

[athoose]

The last major thing was playing with the CO meter on the AFM. It adjusts your air/fuel ratio and allows a side stream of air into the air pipe that the AFM doesn’t monitor. If you have a California model AFM the CO meter is sealed with a metal cap from the factory that is removable. I wouldn’t mess with your CO meter if you haven’t made sure everything else is right. Such as vacuum leaks, checking the ECU connector pins per the FSM, plug wires, etc…. Will an occasional misfire cause fail emissions test in CA? Also your state inspection may require it to meet a certain CO amount. I plan to check my CO down the road but I don’t have to pass an emissions test. Oh one other thing that helped was cutting that line from the charcoal canister to the intake. I haven’t checked out what’s going on with that but I suspect my canister is broke.