dat521gatherer

small aluminum style.

ok i hit 90 today at 5200 rmp's. it's hard to find a good stretch of freeway in town.

what i want to know is whats the difference between the large and small aluminum ones and whats up with that canister style pac? i have one too. are they aftermarket? i see very few of the giant aluminum ones do they pump more than the small ones?

were the up to 78 l20b y pipes. or were all l20b non y pipe? i remember looking for a single collector square port manifold before and everyone said they weren't made.

thats funny i just read a post earlier that said you like all new clean looking fasteners.:blink:

oh to answer your question. the l20b has round exhaust posts and the l16 has square ports. so you can use that manifold but you will be putting a l16 square port manifold on a l20b round port head. it will work but many people frown upon it.

dont know why but i've had the best luck removing those pollution tubes. out of say 12 i've only had to drill and tap one hole. the drill bit and tap was less than $5. i cant stand to see people crimp or curl the pipes. i've done it on and off the car/truck. if you want to remove them cut the pipes off close to the head and soak them with some wd-40 or pb blaster then use a 6 point socket "dont use a wrench" and work it back and forth until they come out. as far as plugging the holes with bolts vw lug bolts and oil pan bolts have the right threads. here is a pic of what the vw/audi audi bolts with fixed washers 14x1.5 i believe.

find the nearest 521 in a junkyard. no body ever takes the brake cables and chances are they will be in good shape. there is a pair in the yard near me but i dont know how much they are. probably $10 for the pair. are the mechanism pieces in good shape still?

must have sold, linky no worky. that was quick.

i need a cap for the 68 ribbed not the screw style.

does your 521 dash pan have the radio din cut out? do you have a su 220 side draft manifold? is so how much? pm'ed you

Here I am with my wife :D: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/img010.jpg[/img]"] mike she doesn't have a bra on!!:D

i've been wondering how fast my 521 will go since i swapped engines. it's got some pep on the freeway so soon i will see what it will do. i took a video the other day on the way out to the junk yard just for fun. 70 mph at 4000 rpm's. mind you i'm running a stock 4 speed with a l16 and w53 head and 32/35 weber with a super tight timing chain. no slack on the slack side, dont even know he got the dang thing on there. i may need to adjust my gas pedal stop bolt. most people are scared to death to take their 521 l motor past 4000 rpm but mine sounds like it wants to go faster. i've had it the 80's at around 5000rpm whats the redline on a l16... 5600 rpm or higher? rated at 96 hp @ 5600 rpm. yeah when people see a old ratty 521 flying by all they can say is :eek: answer---never hit 100 and dont think it could but i wind it up to 80 at least once a month.

the l20b stock is rated at 112 hp @ 5600 rpm the l18 stock is rated at 100 hp @ 5600 rpm the l16 stock is rated at 96 hp @5600 rpm the stock ka24e is rated at ? the stock ka24de is rated at ? the stock sr20/det is rated at ? anyone care to fill the hp in please do so

didn't the original sss package come with flat tops and su's on a l16? how can i tell if they are l24 pistons?

yeah, the head is probably worth all that cash and fun by itself.:D

picked up the short block today. when tacoma pull-a-part says short they ain't foolin. no timing cover, crank pulley, flywheel, water pump, oil pump, hell she even said the oil pan wasn't included.:eek: anyway i'll post pics later. after tax i paid $40 for the head and cam w/sprocket and $70 for the short block with oil pan. crank sprocket fell into my tool box along with all the bolts and worm gear. $110 total. compared to a long block that is $108 after tax.

if i can scrape up the funds today i'll get the block. the head wasn't loose but the head bolts just broke loose easier than all the other heads i've pulled. maybe it was the half inch breaker bar that made it feel that way instead of my old way of using a 3/8 drive with a wrench on the end for leverage.:D after i got the bolts out i didn't even have to tap the head, it just came right off.

should i grab the flat top pistons or the whole block? looks like cylinder number 4 had some trouble. intake valves measure 1 5/8 roughly. it came off a l16. i got the 1600 valve cover with it too. i haven't cleaned it up to look for cracks. also didn't look at the head gasket or block very close. i'll post some more pics of it when i clean it up a bit.

recently there was a 521 lower grill piece that went for $81 plus shipping and the one pic wasn't even that great.

mike you are having waay too much fun. i demand that you stop right now!:lol: looks awesome and is very unique. did you bead blast that elephant oil cap? the 1600 valve covers i've seen have the spark plug wire bracket riveted or pinned in instead of a bolt?

take the ground wires off your voltage regulator mounting screw/bolt and clean/sand/dremel the surfaces til they shine. actually take the whole volt reg off and clean the back mounting surfaces and the surrounding bolt holes where they go. one of the best preventive maintenance you can do.

i just read this happened to datsunmike i think. read this thread. ground problem. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=6566

i've yet to see someone post that they like or dislike any of the 521 windshield gaskets that are on ebay. as far as i've heard some have bought but never installed that i've read about anyway. rubber quality, fit, installation?

sycloned916's alternator thread has a great pic of the stock negative battery cable mounted to the front of the top alt bracket bolt. its a j13 engine.