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'70dime

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Everything posted by '70dime

  1. Rotary510, he was patient while I waited on paypal, then got my fuse block across the country in two days!
  2. I wonder how well that would fit in place of a stock cluster on a '69 dash...
  3. $450 OBO for a 210 hauling it off next week. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3601045212.html
  4. I want everything from the part that you foot touches to the cable connecting to the carb. Lemme know whachu got. Thanks, Pierce Jones
  5. $1500 roadster 2000 with extra engine, looks to have been sitting for a min. http://bham.craigslist.org/bar/3589226158.html pair of 240z's $1500 http://gadsden.craigslist.org/cto/3535818598.html
  6. I love everything about this project. Also I never knew Nova's ran that fron end setup. It will look right at home under the 1200. any plans for flares and wider rubber?
  7. Great Finds!!! I would love to find a place like that to just explore/camp out for a weekend.
  8. Well I figured my issue out (although I still need to re wire the pigtail). It was an unfortunate coincidence that I left a switch on the day after the swap all things are good.
  9. I did the Saturn alternator swap saturday, and since then I have developed a draw on the battery. I followed the diagram that hainz has posted in several different threads. but I may have gotten some wires crossed. I am a lil ignorant in the ways on the charging system, had I jumped the wrong terminals at the voltage regulator would that cause a draw? To clarify: - saturn alternator swap - 13 volts when running loaded/unloaded - If the car sits for a few hours, no start (acts as if battery is dead) - push start the car, 5 min drive, turn it off, it starts right back up - battery terminals are tight lemme know what you guys think, thanks! EDIT: I wired it wrong, I used the L and IG terminals on the saturn plug because those were the only two wires in the pigtail. So "Sense" isn't hooked up. but IG is hookup up, I hope I didn't screw something up!!!! EDIT 2: So I can't figure how "IG" doesn't have to be wired. from what I understand thats what tells the regulator to turn on, so how could you not hook it up. I think I'm confusing my self more and more the more I read.
  10. I have a battery draw after the saturn alternator swap, check the thread....http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69-90-amp-bolt-in-alternator-on-an-l-series-motor/page-10

  11. I did the Saturn alternator swap saturday, and since then I have developed a draw on the battery. I followed the diagram that hainz has posted in several different threads. but I may have gotten some wires crossed. I am a lil ignorant in the ways on the charging system, had I jumped the wrong terminals at the voltage regulator would that cause a draw? To clarify: - saturn alternator swap - 13 volts when running loaded/unloaded - If the car sits for a few hours, no start (acts as if battery is dead) - push start the car, 5 min drive, turn it off, it starts right back up - battery terminals are tight lemme know what you guys think, thanks! EDIT: I wired it wrong, I used the L and IG terminals on the saturn plug because those were the only two wires in the pigtail. So "Sense" isn't hooked up. but IG is hookup up, I hope I didn't screw something up!!!!
  12. I just read through this whole thread. I love everything in here. Onward good sirs!
  13. Keep the windshield trim or go for the cal look?

  14. What issues are you having right now? weird idle? won't start? nothing happens at all when you turn the key?
  15. I'm planning on doing this soon, so I started gathering parts. My saturn alternator has a different pigtail. its oval, the wire, according to NAPA, are as follows: P(ST), L, I(IG), & S. Can someone tell me which one would be field? or should I go back to the yard and get a different alternator, with the square plug. Thanks.
  16. It's fixed! It was the lower hose. Hainz wins because he was the first to mention it. The new hose didn't come with a spring in it but its a lot stiffer. Is there a way to but something in there as a fail safe? Thanks everyone for the help, I read a lot on here but don't really post to much. Maybe I'll start a build thread this weekend, theres good people in here. Ratsun is the beez kneez.
  17. Well, Yes it is a Champion radiator from ebay. The warranty sold me and it was a resonable price. My reason for swaping was my orginal radiator had a small leak in on of the fins that had meen repaired. the shop that repair it said they wouldn't warraty it because it was so old. Yes only the radiator changed, but I was thinking maybe the old radiator being able to leak a little kept things together and now that the new one holds pressure it has highlighted other weak spots. Tonight the old radiator goes back in for sure, then I'll go for a highway run tonight.
  18. I'm not sure what you mean by one time over heat, it over heats once everytime I get on the interstate. If I'm able to get to the side of the road before it gets to hot, I dont loose that much coolant. I'm 80% sure my coolant loss is out on the overflow. For instance, this morning as soon as I saw the gauge start creepin past 190 I started looking for a good spot to pull over. By the time I stop it has pushed the cap open, I sit there for a min, start back up to check the temp, it starts high on the gauge then comes right back down to 190 and I cruise the rest of the way to work without issue. I check the coolant on my lunch break and it was still covering the top of the fins. I said earlier that the lower hose was not collapsing but thats something I couldn't get it to do in the driveway. if the lower hose collapses and I turn the engine off, does it open right back up? or does it stay collasped?
  19. I'll drill a hole tonight, and I don't have any heater bypass lines. Thanks for your help!
  20. The timing light wasn't working so I went by the marks on the distributer plate, my brother will bring home a timing light tonight. 180 thermostat, I didn't drill a hole, anti-freeze is 50/50 mix.
  21. okay, the cap is holding 15 lbs as it should, the lower hose isn't collapsing, the thermostat is opening at the correct temp. I couldn't find a overflow at the store so I'll have to find one from somewhere else. I did back the timing off a few degrees. It did the same thing this morning although not as bad, cruisin to work, temp chillin at 190. Then nothing else changed (speed, traffic, nothing) and the temp creep past 190 and kept creepin, so I pulled over sat for a min. When I started it back up to check the temp it started coming back down, settled at 190. I took off and had no issues the rest of the way. I'm gonna swap the old radiator back in tonight and see what that does, it leaks a lil bit but I never overheated with it.
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