exit64

Holy crap Andrew, that looks great! After seeing that truck in the Hood, I figured it was a total write off. Don't forget the deer whistles on the fenders this time, and a big-ass roo bar.:D Stop on by next time you're in the area. Stubbs aka exit64

Problem solved. Too much damage to fix enough to drive so Andrew's buddy picked him at 2 am and towed him back to Lewiston. Bummer way to end a road trip. Good luck on the repair and thanks to all that responded offering parts and help. Enjoy Canby today, the weather is going to be awsome. exit64

Truck is getting towed to Roadster Central in Hood River. Should be here with in the hour. Need parts people. I have a limited supply of 620 stuff and don't really want to gut mine if it can be helped. Need Radiator, core support and rt side head light buckets from the sounds of things..Looks like I will be burning the midnight oil tonight instead of taking my super-model girlfriend to the a show.:cool: I can be reached on my cell at 541-490-8430 call me asap with a parts list. Going to get a cap and rotor right now. exit64 out

That settles it. I'm enrolling in CCC.:) Nice, but they should have had you sitting in the 620 with your lab coat a little greasy. Thanks for the carbs, BTW. Hope to see you out this way when we reschedule the Datsun run. Mike aka exit64

If it don't, that's what cell phones are for.:cool:

It must still be available 'cause I tripped over the other day in the shop when I was changing tranny fluid. I'd be all over it if I didn't already have one myself.

Hey man, Get that airhorn back on there or you will never get the curve right when you tune those carbs. They aren't just for good looks you know. You can get a narrow K&N filter if you have clearance issues. Other than that, clean install.

There is a disassembled L20b with a W58 head sitting at E&L Machine in Hood River. All the head work is done with new valves. The cam towers and cam are missing. He just wants to cover the cost of the valve job at this point. You can get everything for $150. 541-386-1404, press#2 and ask for Kevin. There is also a 620 in the crush pile up at Mt. Hood towing in Parkdale. I already snagged the 5 spd and driveline but the motor is still in it. 541-352-1000.

I like Awsome Orange from the dollar store. It cuts the crud better than any other product that I have used. The best part, it's only a dollar a spray bottle. Seems to be easy on paint too if you don't let it sit too long.

That 3 speed tranny is Borg Warner. Pretty straight forward for a good auto tranny guy. I can measure a 4 speed out of a roadster for you it you need that done. Just say the word.

I just park over a cookie pan and that way I can just dump it back in the motor.:blink: It sucks when the tranny oil gets mixed in with the motor oil though as it messes up my viscosity.

We are going to wait until it is a lot warmer. This is a bummer though as we had about 20 guys with their cars coming out. Should have done it last weekend when it was 80 out here in the Gorge. I will post the new date with plenty of lead time. We are pretty flexible so if we pick a date that you are working say the word and we will try and make it on one of your off weekends if you want to join up with us.

Guys, Leigh and I have decided to postpone this event due to the weather forecast calling for snow this weekend down to 500 ft level. High probability that we will get it here in the Gorge and the run that we have planned goes up to 2500 ft level so we are going to wait until the weather turns to the warm side. Sorry about that but better to wait than wreck a car on slick roads. Mike aka exit64

Fry, Check those ground straps and replace as needed. Your amp meter in that car acts as a fusable link, and believe me, that's nothing you want to fuse. You let the smoke out of that system and you are in for learning a whole new vocabulary. Ground battery to frame, frame to block. Also ground starter to frame on the other side. I use the woven ground straps. If your lights are dim, check your ground straps. Should also put one frame to body at the rear of the car. Check out the tread about grounding over at 311s.org.

I'm buying a tank of gas!

Roadsters are like Pringle's chips, you can't have just one. I have a 67.5 1600 waiting for the SR swap, a 69 2000 that I am just finishing up the mechanicals on and a 70 1600 that is the daily driver. The 70 gets driven a lot and averages 30-32 mpg on the open road. Never breaks down and is fun to drive. My advice is to check out http://www.311s.org and all will be revealed.:cool: The good side is almost all the parts are available either from Nissan or a dealer. The bad side, you need brakes and they ain't cheap. The 1600's are cheaper to fix than the 2000's. You blow up a 2L and you are looking at around 4-5K to rebuild it right. Almost better to do an SR swap at that point. I am building a 1600 stroker right now and will be into it for about 32 Franklins when it is all said and done. Cheap, no. Fun, you bet. Good luck. Mike aka exit64 Next weekend is the Hood River Roadster Run if you want to really get the urge to own one of these.

OK, here's a question for all you L series guys. What's a good intake for a dual carb setup for this truck? I've got a few extra sets of carbs that need to be put to use so why not let them live on the 620 for a while. I can either run Webers or Mikuni's that should take the same manifold or I have a set of 2 litre Roadster carbs that would work if I can find the right intake manifold. Would a SSS from an L16 work? I know the R and U stuff inside and out but not so up to speed on the L series stuff. Also at E&L Machine here in HR there is an L16 block, crank and head that someone left there about 10 years ago and they wnat it gone. The machine work on the head is done with valve job and the block might also be done but I didn't look that close. Kevin wants $125 for everything but might be open to offers. Give him a call if you are interested at 541-386-1404. These guys are good machinists. Not fast but very accurate.

Looking for an intakes with linkages for a twin setup for a L20b. Going in the 620 as I have an extra set of either Weber's or Mikunis, depending on what goes on the Roadster stroker motor. I have come to the conclusion the original Hitachi carb is used up and it is time to move onto something that will hold an idle.

I've seen that car on Wevilbay a few times. I would spend the extra dough-ray-me and get the blue one out of Salem that is on CL. A whole lot less rust to deal with. The blue one has been on there so long now the guy either doesn't want to sell it too bad or there is something really wrong with it that doesn't show up in the pics.

Here's your two week warning. Start making up your spousal excuses now. Also, an electric RC fly in at the museum Sat at 9 AM. AMA required if you want to fly. Leigh and I are still working out a route for the run. BBQ is shaping up nicely. Make if if you can or read about it later. See you here, hopefully.

OK, here's a serious answer for you. First make a list of what you want to do to your Datsun, paint, engine, wheels, you get the idea. Then decide what you want the most. I always build for drivablity. That means reliable and safe is my first goal. Motor starts every time, good tires and bomber brakes. After that stuff is sorted out is when I start to fuss with the cosmetics. What's the point of having a car that looks great but is mechanically a POS? I have bought and sold a few Roadsters and always approach them this way. That way if I want to sell the car the hard stuff is done and you can ask more $$ when you cut it loose. I always buy the cars that some guys started and then either figured out that he wasn't as good at putting it back together as he thought he was, or he got in over his head finacially on a project and just wants to get some of his money back. There are some sweet deals to be had that way if you are patient and know what you are looking at. I find that I stay way more motivated on a project if it runs and drives than if it just sits on jack stands and gets buried under other projects. Whatever you do, good luck and take pictures of the whole process.

That's nothing. Ford just bought 65% of Toyota. Oh yea, and I have a 69 510 with 285 miles on it for sale also. Bought it from the little lady down the street who only used it to take her cat to the vet twice a year.

Here you go. Now take the 2 ger I just saved you and send it to me.:D http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/car/626378470.html

That 411 has been on and off CL for at least the past 6-7 months. Must really be somthing amiss on that one or it would have been snatched up by now. Just wait, within a month there will be a slew of Roadster on there as soon as there are some nice warm days in PDX.

I thought I would keep a complete album over on Picasa so I remember everything that I am doing instead of looking back over the tread. I guess I can do it both ways. Thanks for the input so far you guys. Fisch's rendering has really got the wheels spinning in my noggin. Normally I am a "stock" kind of guy, but I am seriously thinking SR20 S14 swap. I have also been looking at Lake pipes and chin spoilers. I wonder if a BRE spook would fit the front of this? Then I could plumb in some fresh air to cool the brakes. The trailer mirrors have got to go, along with the side moulding and hooks. Fender Bullit mirrors are in the very near future. I am also thinking that '69 teardrop blinkers from a Roadster would look good instead of the square sidmarkers that are on there now, but they are pricey little bits of bling. Stay tuned.