Stupid_fast

Bushings ?? They're a little loose but they dont look nearly bad enough to cause this much deflection I have a set of delrin ... I kinda wanted to mold them before installing w/e. Yeah .. shackles look straight ... springs look twisted a little in a clockwise rotation ... maybe 2-3 degrees ? ??? u-bolts are NEW. Thanks.

Yep that was mine !! ter Its not a bad setup, but adding leafs like I do can encourage wheel hop issues as well. I'm still playing around with it trying to find the right setup. If you do start flipping leafs, BE CAREFUL!! I snapped two c-clamps in half by trying to flip a too stiff leaf. Those get under a lot of tension, exploding packs release a ton of energy and enough to do unpleasant things. One half of the c-clamp embedded in the wall. Preferably use a press, and get a higher grade or thicker diameter center bolt to hold the pack together. It was meant as a sarcastic compliment- Your knowledge and explanations are invaluable.

My axle is seriously offset ... the thrust angle is pretty bad. Its about 1 or 1.5 degrees, and also my axle is shifted left about 1/2". Its always been this way, but it got slightly worse since I curbed the rear right wheel. I can't see or measure any deflection in the frame, so I suspect something around the leaf/axle setup. I was under my wagon with a measuring tape for about an hour tonight, I can probably get rid of some of it by changing how it sits on the pins, but I would have to widen the hole at the axle perch to do it ... not sure if this is a proper way to align it. Anyone wanna provide some protips ?

@datzenmike, It was easier to just say NO. :pirate:

Camaro fitment is late 70's FRONT shocks http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39512-strut-insert-and-rear-shock-guide/ Search is your friend, already covered many times on this forum.

Without fabrication, no. Leafs hold the axle to the frame. Shocks are separate. Sedan rear shocks are too long to work on a wagon, they will bottom out too soon. Make sure what you're getting is for a wagon, or check AE86 rear / front camaro fitment shocks. They bolt straight on.

Also I'd like to point out. It is installed the exact same way I installed the clutch on my 280zx. The clutch on my 280zx works flawlessly.

I checked the reciept, what I ordered was 30501-N1601 listed as REPLACED BY 30501-N1604. EIther way it measured as the correct length.

New flywheel has about 11k miles. Clutch pad has about 11k miles, pressure plate has about 4k miles. Do some burnouts ??? I've launched it a few times after the break-in period ... Done some clutch kicks ... Feels like a hydraulic problem rather than mechanical, but I could be wrong. Why not ... I'll wear it a bit and see what happens.

second pressure plate since I fragged my first one. Old one had the same issue. Had the wrong t/o sleeve on the old one, clutch always engaged and bent the fingers on the plate. New clutch hasn't degraded or frozen the t/o bearing yet and this problem started immediately after I put it in properly so ... If I bleed the fluid, it goes away for a few mlies, then comes back when everything is hot. My fluid used to turn black after some time driving, I thought this was the cause and its why I replaced my hardline, but last night after replacing the hard line and driving it was perfectly clear. I'm going to try bleeding it again, but I don't know if it'll do any good.

Just replaced the last piece of my clutch... the hard line. Everything is new, and some parts have been swapped or replaced with less than 10k miles on them. Roadster pressure plate & 510 clutch disk new t/o bearing and NEW OEM nissan CORRECT sleeve new slave and master 2nd set in 10k miles new soft line within 8k miles clutch fork is from a 510, greased in all proper spots when i installed it. When my clutch warms up, it gets 'sticky' on slow disengagements, like trying to pull away from a stop, the pedal will stick slightly then pop 2-5mm back making my clutch almost unusable ... I've bled probably 10 liters through that damn system. The fluid is good. Play is ~1/8" at the pedal. A good 2-3mm of wiggle at the slave all within spec. Anyone got any ideas? When I started driving it felt great, smooth and felt like a normal clutch ... comes home after its all hot (it was backroad driving, not much stopping.) and same sticky thing ive been trying to deal with forever. ..

Mine does this, but the fluid turns black. I suspect blockage in hardline. I've replaced every other component twice trying to fix it. Bleeding fixes it for a few miles, then it slowly gets worse until its as it was. Its OKAY when the car is cold, but when it warms up it gets worse. Try bleeding your fluid, see what happens. After that maybe blow out the hard line with compressed air, but I'm just going to replace it.

as in it pops a little bit as you release it, and it feels more like an on/off switch? CHECK ADJUSTMENT at slave and master. Slave should have 2-3mm play, pedal should have about 1/8" play at the petal pad. Check fluid color. Is it black? Bleed the lines. Does it come back after a few miles? @Str8_69, LOL a booster on a CLUTCH line?

Saturday August 24, around 8-9pm till whenever.

Oh thats always fun. Who would do that? just put loctite on something serviceable ... Needles... no problem. it seems these are really hard to find a specific needle. I ordered some random #6 (60mm) mikuni needle from a Yamaha dealer, I'm gong to measure it and see if I ID'd the part number correctly. Next step is to go to a performance bike shop and see what they have to say.

Le bump. TFH meets are awesome.

I'd like the measurement of the straight section of the stock R1 needles, and/or a 2.6mm straight section needle with an aggressive taper. That'd be about 2.6mm straight section all the way down to a 1mm or less at the end measurement to keep the midrange/high range about the same as it currently is. This would lean out the low end while keeping the top end rich enough.

@OkieRA29, I must have misread your post ... looks like you have everything properly identified. It depends, I need to know the measurement of stock needles at the straight section(top) and it has to be a 64mm length needle.

Thats in my back yard. I'll try to make it.

The needle jet is removed from the other side of the carbs, its attached to the vacuum slides with a little clip thingy. Two screws to remove the top cap, the slides slide right out. Ignore the parts in red and yellow. Blow any holes out with carb cleaner or compressed air if you have a compressor. you should never have to hammer anything on these carbs to remove them.

@OkieRA29, All I had to do with my carbs was disassembly the visable parts and clean everything out. Blow jets with carb cleaner, clean the vacuum slides, and put new float bowl gaskets. A few pages back you'll find someone posted float height spec is suppose to be around 6.5mm from gasket surface. Seems to be a fine baseline. you can play with the setting after your jetting is mostly dialed in. Anyone know where to get needles to fit these carbs ??? 64.7mm length (Mikuni #6), I need one with a 2.60mm straight section and more aggressive taper. Mine are too rich in the low end. Having a hard time finding the right fitment for BDSR40's.

I have them raised a bit over half, they're some aftermarket needle thats not stock to the R1. If I lower the needles it runs nice at the bottom, but its way too lean at the top, 4-6k popping and lean AFR's at part throttle. The tops are 2.5mm, and the needle jets are 2.6mm diameter... this is probably the cause of my issue. Going to buy new needles now and see where the tune ends up. edit, apparently the 6-clip no-marking needles I have are a dynojet kit ... I'm having a BAD time finding the right needles online ... I'm going to go to a cycle shop and see if they can help me out. Anyone know where to find a good selection of needles ???

The jet needle and needle jet are two different parts. I'm not talking about anything in the float bowl. The jet needle attaches to the vacuum slides, it is the thing that is a real needle. The needle slides into the needle jet, wich is a port at the bottom of the bore, the needle slides in and out of this controlling the flow of fuel from the main jet as the RPM and throttle increase/decrease. At idle the needle jet should be sealed by the jet needle, and not flowing fuel from the main jet. Idle fuel is metered and supplied by the pilot hole and pilot jet circuit. THIS is a needle jet. I have not replaced them yet, I'm not sure if I even had to. Expensive to replace if worn, Dynojet $20 each. Depending on fuel, driving conditions, and many other variables the needle jets can wear in an oval shape and cause the issue I'm having, they won't seal properly at idle and need to be replaced. Though in my case, I simply have the needles backed so far that the needle taper is not steep enough to function properly.

So I received the replacement needle jets. I pulled out one of the needle slides from the carb, and slid it down into the new neeldle jet .... it doesn't seal !! it has a ton of play around it, so it seems that my needles are at such a rich setting that they don't seal at low rpm/low throttle. I took the air filter off and watched it at idle ... sure enough all four are pouring fuel into the carbs at idle !! I can imagine the pilot tune is all kinds of screwed up with this happening. I probably have to get some different taper jet needles. I'm going to measure mine and figure out what I need for this motor. For anyone else with the low end rich problem, check and make sure your jet needles are properly sealing against the needle jets with the slides closed.

Its intimidating at first, but when you do the swap and install every piece you realize its not that bad. But yes, the first time I got under the hood of my ZX I was overwhelmed by the amount of stuff. Even has 3 washer bottles lolol Thanks for posting, I'll hopefully head out there soon.