You'll need: Aluminum Radiator (This is a champion radiator) 10mm socket Slightly longer radiator bolts, Thread pitch are M8-1.25 (I used 30-35MM) 8x rubber washers. 2x M8x1.25 nuts (with lock washers or nylon nut if you decide not to weld the nut on the core support) 4x M8 washers Top rad hose off newer radiator Alumi-seal Take off your radiator.... Four 10MM bolts around the radiators... easy enough. The radiator bolts up in factory locations, either driver's or passengers, If you want it 100% centered you'll have to make your own brackets but here's how I did it. (It's honestly slightly off) Drill a hole through your core support for the driver's side mounting bracket, You'll need a LONG drill bit, or good measuring, measure four times drill once! ( I had to hog the hole I drilled a little bit)
Circled in RED below. Make sure the radiator is LEVELED! You can chose to make your own brackets but this was the faster, easier, way of doing it.
Aluminum radiators will wear out, and decay over time due to something called ELECTROLYSIS, to avoid this you have to space the radiator off the chassis, use said rubber grommets/washers to space it out away from the core support.
The radiator touched the top of the core support, even with the spacers. I didn't want to space it anymore than I needed to so I bent the core support in a bit.
Pour a little bit of alumi-seal to make sure any small leaks are sealed (Don't over do it) Run the truck for a bit, bleed the system, and let the alumi-seal work it's way around the system.
Then enjoy your new aluminum radiator! Although I still need a shroud... if anyone local has a 510 Radiator shroud I'd love to test fit it..... 620 shrouds, Z shrouds don't fit this radiator. Only reason I ended up using this radiator is in preparation for my L23B, stock radiators cool perfectly fine and having one re-cored will cost just as much if not less than these radiators.