metalmonkey47

True, I guess what I'm getting at is that none of us really know how it went down. Maybe never will. Back on topic, the driver was Roger Rodas, former GT3 cup racer. This picture was uploaded to his Facebook page "Always Evolving" earlier this afternoon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBeCopFSAjU

How do any of us really know how it played out though? For all we know, Walker was yelling at the driver at the time it happened. Maybe the floor mat got wedged in the accelerator pedal and the driver lost control trying to reach for it?? The Carrera GT is known for it's instability... http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2006-06-07/carrera-gt-crashes-into-court Granted, that's probably not how it played out but still.. So many people judge a situation we all know nothing about. Walker wasn't driving, so whether he got into by choice or not, he was not at fault for the accident. I know lots of people who get into 500+ WHP cars at least once a week on the street. None of them drive like douchebags.

What exactly are you looking for?

RIP. It's true, and it's very sad. As was said, Paul Walker was a real enthusiast. A very nice guys too, attending lots of charity events and headlining his own. It's sad to see such a good guy go so early. And with a 15 year old daughter left behind without a father.

So close!

My two favorite Roadkills

Happy thanksgiving guys!! I'm gonna go have a nice drink and go crawl under my truck with some wrenches. I have a stainless steel clutch hose to put on ;)

That's strange. Usually when you see a cam sensor fail on an OBD2 car you'll get a CEL and cam/crank correlation codes. Guess this was one of those rare occurrences.

Buy another Datsun, and listen to it. Music to my ears.

That old man pic is awesome. Was this at the last old school meet?

Mike, I think they'd figure out there's a turbo there haha

In that case, stiffer would be a necessity. Squat would be a HUGE problem in a built V8 Z car. Read more: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/chassis/suspension_steering/1002chp_how_to_pick_the_right_spring_rate/viewall.html#ixzz2lu2rgQF7 Since it seems like the majority of your power will be used going in a straight line, it seems from my understanding of the article that there may not be "too stiff" of a spring for your application. The S30 chassis isn't too heavy in relation to most other cars built to go fast straight, so it's hard to pick a good spring rate based off of what other people are using. I see lots of discussion of 1000lb springs on Chevelles, Camaro's and close to that. But those cars are also using a hell of a lot bigger motor. https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/899-031-226_drag.pdf Read page 5 in this PDF, they talk about weight transfer and spring rates for front suspension. In short, it basically explains that when the front end lifts, the weight is transfered onto the rear tires increaing traction, so the optimal spring rate would be far lower then the rear to assist in weight transfer. So where you may run a 750lb spring in the rear, you may run a 300lb spring in the front. (Just throwing numbers out there.) http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_11_18/springs.html Interestingly enough, this page suggests near the bottom that cars using a standard strut assembly will run a lower spring rate in the rear. MUCH lower then I was thinking. I've always thought drag cars should run very high spring rates to counter squat, but it seems I may have been wrong all along (not a big suspension guy, just good with google.) The chart's recommended spring rate for a 3000lb car: Approximate Front: 250lb Reat: 150lb

Scratch that, I didn't realize this was for a 320. I'll try and track down a modern bulb number for that..

194 is the bulb number.

Probably Eibach. Why do you want the stiffest spring possible? What kind of driving are you planning on doing? AutoX. drag, street, circuit? Sometimes stiffer doesn't always mean better. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/chassis/suspension_steering/1002chp_how_to_pick_the_right_spring_rate/ http://www.westpennmazdaclub.com/files/Car%20Setup%20and%20Troubleshooting%20Cheatsheet.pdf

Stiffer has more to do with spring rate then brand. Basically, the higher the spring rate, the stiffer the spring. http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/spring-rate.html

This

A vacuum leak might cause those symptoms. Take a clean piece of hose, hook it to the vacuum advance on the distributor and suck. See if it holds vacuum. If it doesn't, then the diaphragm is damaged and the vacuum advance needs to be replaced.

The fuck? I logged into PayPal, never got that message. Looked in my options after updating some account info for a card that's expired and my fucking SSN is already entered into the site! I never gave them that shit and I never would. How in the fuck?? Some of you guys that aren't seeing this message ought to look in your "profile" under 'My Personal Information" and check under the section for "Tax ID Number."

They make motion sensing air cans that blast air whenever they're set off to scare cats/animals away from the area. Buy a few, turn em on at night. The cats will learn. Humane, as well. Forgot what it's called, but my sister uses them to keep her cats off of the counters. EDIT: It's called Ssscat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWK7IZdx4qY

The U67 intake is only temporary, I'm trying to put $$$ together for Weber 40's that will run a PCV... but in the meantime I get all the water/moisture through the catch can. I emptied about 1/2 quart the other day. Left from about 1.5 oil changes. Future motor plans are to run a cut down L28 manifold, megasquirt, turbo, etc etc. But that's down the road.

I used Valvoline 30W for the break in, and 10W30 after that. I'm now running Mystik JT8 15W50 that's got a high moly & zinc count. Part synthetic, but conventional throughout the first few thousand miles. The motor/rings etc wasn't soaked, but lightly coated. The cam was broken in previously, it's an old 70's ground Racer Brown so it's seen some light use in the past. My U67 intake has the EGR deleted and welded, so unfortunately there's no way to put a PCV valve on the intake unless you drill/tap a hole.

Sorry guys, I might be a little retarded, or I was too tired to be posting on the internet. I didn't hold it steady at 3K, but varied a little bit between idle, 2K, 3K. Not consistent, I was kind goofing off playing with it. I compression tested it after about 1000 miles, and 2-4 were about 160PSI with cyl 1 at about 130 psi. Spoke with Master_o_turbonics (builder) and talked a little bit about valve adjustments that will probably need to be made, also going to get some block test fluid and look for exhaust in the coolant. Returque the head a little tighter, etc. He's convinced it's not bottom end, and to do with valves/seats/head gasket. A leak down/wet compression test will tell for sure. I'd just REALLY hate to tear into the motor right now. Might have some numbers tomorrow for reference.