metalmonkey47

Thinking about slapping this pulley back on with a good key, tightening the fuck out of it, and calling it a day. Then when my vacation time comes up, ripping it out and tossing in a black top SR my buddy has laying around. I love my L, but goddamn this is annoying. When the pulley came off, he said he just tapped it with a wrench and un screwed the bolt with his hands. That was torqued when the motor was assembled about 8 months ago. Never came off. http://youtu.be/GQO6ZbIFhGs

Hey sorry guys, just got home. No bearing issues, the pulley was 100% the issue. The only reason I say rebuilding was because of my compression issues. I figure if the crank comes out, the pistons might as well too. Too bad I can't get ahold of the fucking engine builder so I can figure out specs on these damn Mahle powerpak pistons so i can order the damn rings. I feel like I'm being ducked for sure. :mad: I'm trying to get you guys a video of the bottom end now...but my phones being a retard. BRB in a second.

no clue, didn't appear to be, but I'll know more later looking like it. I'm gonna try and get this crank to a machine shop and see if anyone can slot mill it for a better keyway. Might order a dampner from summit.

Yup! Ruined the crank, and the pulley is trashed. Gonna end up stripping the motor and basically rebuilding it.

Well here it is. crank wobble. Keyway fell out when the crank pulley came off

Nah, I'm not gonna play around. I'll be leaving it overnight at work, and dropping it In the morning.

I tightened the oil pan recently, wonder if its too close? Idk. Man this sucks, but I'll figure it out tomorrow

I'll be back more on this later... I'm at work. Roads are iced over, were under a state of emergency again here in ATL. wouldn't this have been an issue from day 1?? Why would the rod bolt all the sudden start to touch the pan?

Both! Well maybe not the truck thread... Damn mike, we aren't sympathizing with a floozy girl are we? Screw her 7 times over :ninja: So the truck went up in the air today at a buddies shop. They took a few minutes from playing with the customers Mach 1, and the other dudes Trans Am to load my truck in a bay and get underneath. After about 1.5 minutes we found the noise right below cylinder one. You can feel the tapping on the pan. Not sure if one of those BBC rod bolts are tapping the pan for some reason, or if the bearings gave way. I'm gonna go ahead and order bearings and hope that's all that it is. In the meantime it will be parked. Anyone got suggestions for good quality oversize bearings? .010''/.25mm oversize. I was told this motor got ACL race bearings, but I don't even see them on their catalog.

Just read your suggestions guys, I'm at work right now... be back after work!! And about the donations...lol check the thread later. I'll explain everything.

holy wtf brb I'm gonna check that in the morning. I didn't see that from below

Checked both of those, the exhaust tap is more of a ping, I sat under with it on ramps and saw nothing contacting.

Dude these trucks are light. unless you're gonna tub it and put some slicks on it with a Ford 9'', no reason for a crazy stupid motor swap. If you had 150HP in that thing you'd be happy. My L makes 104 at the wheels and it's a dream.

Interesting Mike, my L20B in my '75 has those exact same timing tabs on it. Are you saying these only came on late blocks?

Hoping someone might have some kind of idea as to what I might want to dig into. I've been digging into this for a week when this showed up. It's a pretty steady knock that's shown up on my freshly built long-rod LZ. Very consistent in frequency and pattern. I ONLY hear this at idle, when the motor rocks about a bit from the big 'ol cam. At first thought it was a rod knock... so far I have: -Changed the oil/filter. Running fresh 15w50 with K&N HP-3001 filter. Oil was dirty and probably well worn, but no chunks, shiny bits, flakes, etc. Came out perfect. -Unplugged wires from dizzy one at a piece, no change in frequency of the knock on any cylinder. -Oil pressure is 50PSI at idle on a warm motor. Up to 80PSI cold. Doesn't seem like it could possibly be bearings. -Timing chain is tight, guides, tensioner, etc all new and looked great when I did the head gasket a few weeks back. I triple checked everything when it was re-assembled. Sounds like it could be coming from the bottom end, but honestly it was built so well, and everything is literally pointing towards everything being fine in the bottom end. I haven't cracked the pan yet, but I will if I can't find it. I just don't see a reason why I need to check there yet. Been throughout the motor with a stethoscope and can't find a source, the knock sounds like it's coming from everywhere. Pan, waterpump, block, etc. Anywhere I go I can trace the sound. I also have a slight vibration when accelerating. The motor mount looks like it's collapsing over to one side, and the 'L' shaped plates that are on the top and bottom pieces of the mount might be tapping, but pulling the motor over to one side doesn't seem to affect the noise. Although it would explain the tapping only when the motor rocks, and the vibrations when I accelerate (motor twisting on the mounts.) Both mounts are less then 1.5 years old. Although this thing could be tearing them up. It was suggested that it might be a loose flywheel, but it seems if that would be the case then the knock/rattle would disappear or change it's frequency/consistency when the clutch is pushed in. I have yet to pull the starter to feel the flywheel. It was balanced and turned before the motor was assembled and the bolts were torqued and loctited to spec when assembled, with a good clutch. No reason why I see this thing backing out. (Ignore the mess on the block. It's been cold outside and I need to clean the leaks off the motor that i just fixed. oh and I know my header leaks. It's annoying. ) http://youtu.be/XSGR5ULKzrg Just hoping maybe someone can think of something I might be overlooking. It's pretty damn frustrating hearing this thing. I'm pretty close to buying the black top SR from my boss and selling this LZ.

Get a cooling system pressure tester from your nearest AutoZone. Pump it up to 13 psi and look for your coolant leaks

I see more spam. Mike, have you considered temporarily putting some kind of 'hold' or required verification on members until the holes have been patched? can we block new member from creating threads until after a certain number of posts?

You can't expect road race parts to last long on a street car. When you install them, you have to bear in mind that on the street, shit happens.

I'm bored with the Datsun community. I don't associate with anyone that I don't already know. So many shitty people, I don't trust anyone. That said, IDK why people ask so much for Datsun parts. I've got a stack of parts in my garage I'm giving away to someone. Donating my old lip to another person, HELL one of my old fenders is on Chad Copelands drift 620. Twas free. Idk what the problem is with some people.

I think I just found a new signature.

Can we just call them out already?

I figured it was Jeff.

We have mod presence! YAYYY!!! Back to your regularly scheduled program.