metalmonkey47

Nice!!! Yeah that car is a pos!! But I loved it so dearly. I wanna know wtf happened to some of the shit on there by the PO. bought it a long time ago from a Mexican dude north of Atlanta for $500. Talk about a nightmare. Painted so many times I gave up on bodywork. Wiring was horrible. Dash was stripped naked so I bent a new one together. sold it for 1000 and the dude instantly tried to flip it calling it a race car....wtf was he thinking. saw it at K O towing a few months back and they were supposed to be calling me when it went to auction. I was playing with the idea of a GM lm7 (5 3) swap since they're plentiful and now I have the resources I didn't have when I was 18 and daily driving it. If you get bored PM me. I could tell you so many horror stories about that car....when i got it, it looked like it had been stripped some time in the 80's. FYI if you find my 8mm deep socket in the rear driver fender I'd like it back.

I vote Jacob for mod.

New episode. Is awesome!! http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=II3z353OZWA&feature=youtu.be

Awesome guys! SO my compression may be right on point then, I suppose I'll need to re-test it once I've got it running, up to temp again. Thanks Jacob, those are the ones. I figured it was 4G63 but I wasn't 100%. Didn't want to say for sure until I found my info I had written down. It's these pistons to be exact: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Mahle/engine/pistons/PowerPak_Mitsubishi_4G63_89-92/7127

Thanks for the opinions guys. I've been watching video's about collector size/length/diameter, etc for the last 30 minuets. Kind of interesting learning about exhaust pulse, collector size vs efficiency, etc. Anyways, I don't want a stock manifold whatsoever. My LZ was built to breath, and frankly just looks like utter shit. It's a set of carbs and a couple small pieces away from a full on race motor. I got a good deal on all the parts, so I figured why not. Anyways, I know they say that the stock manifold is efficient, but to a degree I think it reaches a point where it starts to become in-efficient. My LZ has a big meaty cam, fairly big pistons, 9.4:1 C/R, Z22 crank, L28 valves, dual nismo valve springs w/ nismo retainers. It's crazy fun.. I'm all for stock manifolds but I just can't see any benefit on my motor. The header I have is junk, looks like it's got a few thousand miles under it's belt before I got it. There's no cranking, but some of the primary tubes are dinged up and the sealing surface looks like utter shit. I don't need a header to last forever, because in a few short years it will be EFI turbo'd when I have a new DD, so a header will be useless. The header via RaceTep aka TopEnd is $200 shipped now, so I might just shell out the money for it, get it coated, and the flange milled down. I'm tossing some money out for Mikuni's soon, so I'd rather knock it all out at once because after that, I'll be getting a mandrel bend stainless exhaust run. i just want to get everything done in order so I can knock it out in a week once I have all of the parts.

Sweet more locals!

I'm tired of exhaust leaks from crappy flanges, and I'm ready to toss some coin in the pot for a new header, but I'm having trouble finding what appears to be an actually good quality header that isn't running several hundred dollars more then the rest. The one I have now just has crappy thing flanges, that warp easy and it's freaking messy... leaking at 2/4 cylinders. EX: http://www.stahlheaders.com/RR%20Datsun.html ^$610 for what I'm assuming is an excellent quality part, but I'm looking to spend half that. Anyone ever had success with getting a header (shorty) to seal on an L motor?

The motor was built by a buddy, but not for stock specs. It was built to run a shit ton of boost, hence the BBC rod bolts, ARP head & main studs, etc. It's also got forged mahle pistons (something Mitsubishi) with fully floating wrist pins, and moly rings. Maybe the leak down is normal for this motor, I suppose it's something I can live with. I just hate thinking I'm running lower the normal compression. as of right now, i still don't even have the truck back. Kind of nerve racking. CYL 1 had a slight leak at the intake valve fully shut, but ever so slight... (hissing in the intake) The heads gonna come off when I get another DD and I'm gonna gut the head and lap the valves.

What failed?? Just kinda curious. I borrowed an awesome electric motor hoist from my buddy, His brother built it as a prototype for a race team in the early 90's. It made quick work of it. L20B Coming Out by metalmonkey47, on Flickr LZ22 Install by metalmonkey47, on Flickr

The snow was AWESOME... but it crippled GA. The Governor wasn't prepared for it. When we had the ice storm last week, we were on top of it. I drove my truck to work on 1/4'' of ice. It was a bitch, but i made it!

We had some nasty winter weather a few weeks back, that re-occured a few days ago in the form of fucking freezing rain. Drove my truck all the way to work on ice. Pretty fucking scary. Had some fun a week ago when the snow hit and we got 2-3 inches. Untitled by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr GOPR0305 by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr GOPR0303 by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr GOPR0299 by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr GOPR0298 by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr GOPR0295 by Yatesphoto47, on Flickr

Truck is in the air right now with the motor apart. The crank pulley wiped out the keyway on the crank, and the woodruff key won't stay in place. Crank pulley wobbles a bit, causing a 'knock' that i searched and could not find for literally about a week and a half. http://youtu.be/XSGR5ULKzrg Bottom end came apart.... http://youtu.be/GQO6ZbIFhGs Anyways, sorry for the lack of updates. I've been doin stuff here and there, but nothing significant. Also I've gotten bored with build threads. I'm gonna try and get back to it. more pics and stuff coming

Counter weight on the exhaust mani?

Chad Copeland just posted these on his personal FB page. Looks like Matel might be starting a new hotwheels. His drift truck is too cool.

Anyone have thrust specs on the crank? It's got a good bit of walk front to back (didn't see it for myself, but my buddy working on it mentioned he noticed it when we was inspecting the crank snout.) I'm gonna drop my mig welder off in the shop tomorrow and we're gonna weld up the crank, and grind it straight. Should be finished up by tomorrow. Hmmm well put. I'm gonna beat it up for a little bit and see how it goes. I'll update my build thread and see how it goes in a few thousand more miles. The motor ran strong, so I don't see any reason why I'd need to tear it apart just yet. I figured if it was already most of the way apart, why not. But I don't think that will be an issue. Well, we have them availible (the sr) at a good price, and the swap doesn't seem difficlt. I've been reading and researching for months and the hardest part is turbo plumbing, oil lines, etc. Bolts in for the most part, just have to cut the motor mounts on the frame free, and weld them back an inch or so.

Kirden, here's what we did on my LZ. -Z20E block -L20 front cover -L20 dizzy drive spindle -KA-e oil pump. Bolted together like stock.

JB isn't designed for fuel. It will break down. You might try and find some gas tank epoxy. They do make the stuff and most parts stores have it.

Not normal. That'll wipe out bearings QUICK so don't run it. Chances are the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking. On the mechanical pumps theres a weep hole on the bottom of the pump. Anything coming out of it?

20% is what the tester read, but it sounded like a LOT more. SR would be a good cheapie. Black top is VVT too. I'd get it for less then what I spent on the LZ honestly. Hey, can't see the keyway with the timing cover. Don't remember myself, but if I spin the motor over can I see it from beneath? I don't recall off the top of my head how it looks down there. EDIT: Nevermind, forgot I had a video. Gonna need to pull the front cover.

yeah, I'm lucky enough to live near one of the few summit racing stores. Did a leak down test about 2weeks ago

That you did......hmmmmm and off to the forum I go

No shit.. well I'm about to invest in some Mikuni phh44's so if anything will set them in well it's that. LOL I'll beat the living shit out of this truck for the first few days until i get bored and drive sane again. This motor is clown shoes and sooooo ready for lots of air. Dyno'd 104 at the wheels on a weber 32/36

Yup! There's not that much drag on the pulley, so I don't think I'll wipe out the snout and break the crank. Didn't notice this before, rings never seated. I'm a few thousand miles in now at this point.