yenpit

Yes, dogleg repair panels for both the 2dr and the 4dr, that go UP the front of the fender arch by approximately 8-10 inches!

Looks like your rear tail lamp panel might be considered a "custom", because it's smooth, without a license plate recess. Nice piece regardless! Your rear "beaver" (definately not what we know as "beaver"! :w00t: ), what we would call a rear valence, would potentially sell here. Too bad the FRONT valence is such a complicated panel to make, cuz we really need them here in the States! Yes, the 510 upper "skirt", same part as your 1200 application! That panel rotted out as seen in braveops pic, will often send an otherwise usable 510 to the scrap yard! I would not have guessed that you get that kind of rust/rot in Australia. Are those typically coastal cars, that spent their lives near the salt water? I'm really surprised that you offer the roof drip rails, as I haven't ever seen those damaged by rust/rot, even here in the midwest snow belt......better known as the "rust belt"! You guys also show a lower forward "skirt repair" for the 1200 application..........that same panel for the 510 would be great. I just patched that area up my last 510 project. I like the rear floor & seat pan sections! I did not see FRONT floor pans listed........do you make them? With the continued mentioning of the 510 in magazines (an article in Grassroots Motorsport Dec 2012 is due out next month), and the continued use in video games, means that the demand for the 510 is going to continue to increase, which in turn means that the market demand for rust repair panels will increase, as more cars will be restored. I think for an Aussie company to sell here in the States, they will ultimately need to find a distributor that stocks these panels here. Just a suggestion, if you do end up marketing here in the States, determining our terminology/part name for a particular part will be a key factor in getting the product known here! For example, your "beaver" is our "valence". Of course, we ran into that same marketing issue with the British parts many years ago, when that market grew here......bonnet = hood, boot = trunk, wing = fender etc etc. On eBay (or a website), what a great help it is, when you add a pic of your repair/patch panels in the position that they should be, like the rear floor & seat pan panels. Well done! :thumbup:

Lookin' great, I like the "tonneau" idea! I have been searching for a Matchbox or Hot Wheels pickup truck to cut the bed out of, but no luck so far. I can't find another one of that late 40's Hot Rod Pickup that I did for my buddy (see previous post)!

Ratwagon1600, so far, here's my version of the Ute! I'm goin' UP instead of down................what have you gotten me into!!??

Dat-side, I found a couple of that Kenmeri Hot Wheels! Definately different.............. B)

banzai510.......I didn't know you were making self help videos! :w00t:

wead, what company? Do you have a website?

This has been an interesting thread........... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45385-reproduction-510-sheet-metal/ front upper fender rail outer box sections (see braveops pic). These are apparently different for the Sedan vs Wagon (Wagon might be "double walled"??). I can't imagine that the Aussies have problems with these, cuz they are a much drier region, but we sure do in the midwest, the upper northwest & much of Canada! rocker/sill panels with the correct front section (see braveops pic), AND the correct rear section, as it is indented to tuck behind the rear 1/4 outer skin, in front of the rear wheels. INNER panels, for the lower rear 1/4 patches behind the rear wheels, that are already out on the market. This panel is the one that drops vertically, off the outer ends of the trunk pan. correct floor pans, with the proper "stampings"

He still has the car, although pretty stripped down now.......saw it 2 weeks ago while on my road trip!

1969-1973 (not sure about the 1968) are the same part for the 2dr & 4dr, with 4 terminals in the plastic plug. The Wagons had 6 terminals.

Can you post a pic of exactly what you want? Some of us 510 or Z-car guys have misc parts for other Datsuns. I know that I have a couple of the early dogdish hub caps, but just never spent time looking at the small details that distinguish the different models!

The Weber electric choke simply requires a wire that goes "hot" (powers up), once the ignition is turned on. Just locate a "hot" terminal on the fusebox and run a wire, OR test that 3-prong plug to see if one of the wires goes "hot" with the ignition. Basically, the Weber choke is always "on" when cold, then when you turn on the ignition/start the car, it slowly heats up the "heat mass spring" inside the choke. As this spring heats up, it pulls the choke off. As long as the spring is hot, it holds the choke off. Hope that helps!

1990-1993 Acura Integra seats, with the Integra seat sliders. I simply had to bend the front mounting eyelet from the stock Integra 45deg angle, to almost flat so it laid flat on top of the seat crossmember, and they lined right up with the stock 510 mounting holes. If you use the stock stamped steel 510 seat mounting brackets, you simply need to drill a new hole to mount the rear of the Integra seat slider to the bracket. I did NOT use the Integra seatbelt assemblies that you see on the inside of the seats, they simply unbolted from the seat frame. Cheap & comfortable!

Definately not anything British (ie MG Triumph Austin Healey etc etc), as they never had a latch like that on the back. I'll ask an Alfa Romeo buddy..............

Pretty sure the orange & gray Coupe is Jim Froula (sp??), off the west coast somewhere. He's even been out here to the midwest, for vintage races at Road America, in Elkhart Lake WI!!

Taterhead, nice one! Love the color.........

Do you have a wiring schematic for your 510? An OEM shop manual OR an aftermarket Haynes manual? If not, buy one! You can then trace the color-coded wires to the component (carb solenoid, dizzy, dual points, horns etc etc) in the pic. Anyone know if Paolo is still making the wiring schematic blowups? Those are great to have! BTW the carb solenoid wires will come out of the small sub-harness, right below the wiper motor. Do you have the original horns bolted to the chassis, either side of the radiator, behind the headlamps? Those loose wires on the drivers side could be horn (I can't see the color-codes)............

Pull each rear tail lamp bulb socket out, remove the bulb, and dunk each socket in a cup of vinegar (removes corrosion), overnight. Remove the front turnsignal lamp, remove the lens, and soak the lamp base (with bulb socket) overnight. You should also go thru the wiring, and remove & clean up every ground point. You should also remove your fusebox, and soak it overnight. I also removed every one of the OEM metal cased relays, carefully pryed off the metal cap, and soaked the unit overnight.

Yikes, the only way I would ship a rear seat is thru Greyhound...........don't think that will work! I've seen some late model Japanese rear seats installed (maybe Civic or Integra etc etc??), that looked pretty good (and typically match whatever front seats they used), but I don't know what fits. If you can find what fits, maybe you can locate there in Hawaii. Maybe someone else can post what they used! Good luck with your search!

The USA-spec 69-73 tail lamps were all the same, thus the chrome trim was all the same.

Most late model IMPORT CAR (maybe domestic?) mirrors use the same 3-bolt pattern to bolt to the roof structure, as they were all a Federally mandated "break away" style, for crash protection. Most Nissan, lots of Subaru, Honda, etc etc. Black ones seem to be harder to find, as most were light or dark grey. You can unbolt your original base, and bring it with you to compare the bolt pattern. Alot of those cheap new mirrors out of Taiwan/Thailand on eBay are a SINGLE bolt mounting. They will bolt up & function, but they don't line up properly, and they look cheap!

The mdf board is fine for these cars these days, cuz many aren't used as daily drivers, thus much less potential moisture damage (guess that could depend on where you are!), which is often what happened to them. Use a THIN foam padding, a THIN vinyl material (so it will wrap around the edges nicely), 3M spray trim adhesive, cut the mdf from a pattern clean & smooth, sand the edges of the mdf so they are a l'il rounded. The corners are the trickiest, so if you haven't done it before, get a buddy to help that has. If you've got the $$ to pay an upholstry shop, they can "stitch" in a pattern, similar to the factory "heat seamed" pattern, or something custom! Also keep in mind that you can buy any color factory original USED panels, clean them thoroughly, and paint them with the aerosol vinyl paint. I just did it on my last beater project, and it turned out really nice! I have used a gloss black vinyl paint in the past, but I used a matte/flat black last time, and I think the flat looks better...........personal preference.

Same 510 as mine was.................. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40424-yenpits-1970-510-4-door-beater/ I've been chasing an 18RG equipped early Celica, here in Michigan, but seems to have disappeared. I'll hit up the guys elderly Mom pretty soon, to see if the guy is still around.

Sweet, thanks carterb!!

Please, no offense, just making a point how valuable these are to me! :D dat lurka, we can talk more thru PM, if you are serious! datzenmike.......I've got a buddy who has two complete sets of Hot Rod, from issue 1 (late 1940's??), and stacks & stacks of old Sports Car, Sports Car Graphic, Road & Track and others that I never even heard of! Every Wednesday we meet at the bar, as long as I've been here in Holland (11 yrs), and he brings 1 or 2 old mags with him. We just sit and read thru them at the bar, talking amongst ourselves about all the killer old school cars & mods they used to do back in the day, and crying over the 427 AC Cobra's selling in the classifieds for $3500. Unbelievable learning experience! Sometimes the women at the bar are like "Why are you reading that old magazine? Aren't you gonna pay any attention to us?" Huh, what, did you say something?? Problem here in Michigan, is there aren't any other Datsun guys around here, so nobody local to share them with. My buddies kinda just put up with me when I rant about Datsuns, but the subject always quickly changes back to Hot Rods! Once I'm out in Denver, I'm thinkin' there will be more Datsun fanatics around to share these with................ qwik510........yer not kidding! Hours already spent in the past, reading thru my other set, over lots of beer! Had a buddy stop by last weekend to pick up some parts, and he went ape shit when he saw this on my work bench, so I fugured I'd post it here! See ya Saturday David! Road trip, road trip, road trip!! :thumbup: