yenpit

2012 price, based on post! Yes, the CA18DET turbo engines WERE cheap back then, but either can't find that one today cuz inventory all used up, or twice that now! My buddy has two 510's with the CA18DET's 😎

My Dad worked at the Nat'l Archives for 35 years, in the Presidential Libraries division, from LBJ through I think Reagan. He must be rolling in his grave over this mess............😒

Wow, I never went back to the beginning of this thread, which Mattndew76 first initiated in Feb 2020! 😎 Gone a long way, with LOTS of changes & LOTS of input! Who knew we would be where we are! 😐

I bet u-joint axles would hold up just fine with an L20B AND some "spirited" driving. Yes, you can simply upgrade later!

Subbie DID make a 4.11!! That's a no brainer to me.............yes, those later Subbie R180's are easily had & I think the custom stub axles are available from a couple different sources! And the fact they do make the 4.11 is killer! The earlier Subbie R160's are really getting hard to find. I'm in CO where they sold lots of Subbie's throughout the 80's & I haven't found an LSD in at least 3-4 years in the junkyards..............

The top trans is a Z 4speed, easily identified by the 6 bolt plate on top of the tail housing, in front of the shifter. None of the 5speeds had that plate. The other trans looks like a second or third generation 280ZX 5speed, identified by the SINGLE forked ear, but we can not identify the speedo pinion housing bolt location (12 or 6 o'clock?), as iceman pointed out. I think this one is the third generation late 280ZX 5speed, cuz I think I see it has the small 2 bolt plate on the drivers side of the tail housing.........?? That 2 bolt plate was an access hole to get to the then new reverse lock out.

All Datsun R160's (510) & R180's (Z car) had a BOLT IN stub axle. All 84-89 Subbie's had a similar BOLT IN stub axle, but you will need to use your existing 510 stub axles. Datsun Competition offered an R160 4.11 clutch type LSD diff, sold over the parts counter, never offered in a production car. That said, they are kinda rare, hard to find. The 84-89 Subbie turbo R160 clutch type LSD units bolt straight in to the 510, again, using your existing 510 stub axles. Pretty sure Subbie only offered 3.7 & 3.9 in LSD, never the 4.11 in LSD. The early Subbie LSD's are getting hard to find. If you find the same 84-89 generation Subbie R160 4.11 OPEN (very common in non-turbo AUTOMATICS), you can swap the 3.7/3.9 LSD carrier unit into the 4.11 diff. This way, you do not necessarily need to shim for proper lash. If you do it the other way, swap a 4.11 ring & pinion into the 3.7/3.9 LSD diff, you MUST properly shim for lash, otherwise you risk premature wear by not having the lash set up! Around 1990, Subbie switched to the SNAP RING style stub axles, thus you would need to purchase the custom made 510 style stub axles with the snap ring. The 70-83 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX R180 open diff's all bolt right in to the 510. You would use the Z car stub axles, not the 510. The 75-83 280Z 280ZX R200 open diff's are overkill for a 510 & much heavier than the R160 or R180 diff's, unless you are running a big power turbo swap and always running your 510 really hard. We run the R180's in our full blown vintage race 240Z's............again, we think the R200's are overkill & they are much heavier. I don't think in the 6++ years of balls to the wall vintage racing, we have ever blown up an R180........they are stout! The current common diff swap is to use the later Subbie R180 viscous or Torsen LSD diff's, but you must purchase the custom 510 style stub axles with the snap ring. I don't think the later Subbie R180's ever offered a 4.11 ratio...................I think you are limited to only two ratio's...........?? Unless you are hard on your car, doing hole shots & burnouts, the stock 510 u-joint axles should hold up just fine. Always a good idea to replace the u-joints & have the axles balanced, but not imperative. We DO run CV axles in our vintage race 240Z's & most guys running any combo of turbo engines in their 510's are typically running CV axles. Pretty sure I got that all correct!

Maybe a backyard mechanic at $1-2k or if you are just buying parts & do it yourself. These days, a proper full on rebuild, from a reputable shop, will likely cost you $4000-8000k. A full on race rebuild is closer to $12000-15000k 😣 Nuthin' is cheap any more!!

Our USA spec 1970 first 6 months of production, had it own wiring harness...........IIRC from 10/69-6/70. My buddy's early 1970 shorted out at the headlight switch & burned the harness out to the fuse box! I tried to modify a later 1970-1972 dash harness to work, but was not successful. It took me 6 months to locate the correct early 1970 harness, by part #, but plugged it in, replaced the H/L switch & off it went!

I stripped out a 1973 years ago, the car was out of Bay City, so it was rotted, repaired & rotted again!! I have the OEM rear defrost "harness" in black vinyl wrapped tape. Sure, it is likely only two wires, but it is factory correct. I know I saw it (I label everything) last time I was digging thru that box. If you have already made one, you should be good!

A picture of a wiring harness? 🧐 Problem is it is buried in a big box of harnesses, up on a pallet rack. What are you "looking for"?

I think I have the factory rear defrost harness if you still need......?? TJ

Just as I expected............."Here, take the jab, THEN take another jab of another man made concoction to counter the side effects, THEN take ANOTHER jab to counter those reactions! Don't worry, we got your back!!" Sorry, no 😣

Being a 510 from a different country, it might not have the same USA spec "collapsible" column, thus might be a smaller diameter.....?? Or, as somebody mentioned, maybe "roll over parts" from the 1969......?? I've never noticed two different column diameters, but I will look at the 5-6 that I have........ The reproduction Z car lock assembly is the same part as the 510, but as vanmansam points out, because the Z is on the right & the 510 is on the left, the Z lock assembly "label ring" with ACC OFF ON START is upside down for the 510............yes, simply pry off & rotate 180deg around! Wow vanmansam, never heard of anybody disassembling the repop lock assembly, to rotate the lock cylinder, so the key faces correctly! The Z car repop lock assembly does have the locking steering plunger. The plunger does not come out, until you pull the key out. Did you install the lock assembly with the key in it? If so, maybe the plunger isn't properly lined up with the hole in the column........?? Mock it up again kinda loose, then pull the key out, move the lock assembly around a little until the plunger pops into the hole, THEN tighten it down! This might also allow the plastic 2pc shroud to line up properly! Again, we are guessing that your car has the same components that we do, here in the USA!

All of the Datsun trim panel rails were painted a medium silver. Unless you are doing a nut & bolt full on restoration, I would just bring one in to the parts store & find something close! You won't likely find an exact match, so paint them all to match! 😎

The 720 had a decent following in the aftermarket, but those parts were mostly OEM-style ie front fenders, hood, grille etc etc. Try Sherman Parts in the midwest (sorry, no link) for possible patch panels, but I've never seen any.......... Grew up in Silver Spring!!

I bet you could cut a clean slot in the end of the bolt sticking out thru the captive nut inside the door, heat the crap out of the captive nut with propane (blue bottle) or map gas (yellow bottle & burns hotter) & twist the broken stud out the opposite way from inside the door! If you have it all apart, now it the time to try something "outside the box"!! 🧐

I just watched this today! And "they" STILL denounce it as lies!! People are really getting sick & tired of this crap............the poop is gonna splatter everywhere, when it hits the fan!! 😡

So here in the States, those ROUND gauges were introduced for the 1970 model year. If that pic was a little larger, I could actually see your ignition switch, which looks like it is on the left of the steering column. So to clarify............you do or do not have a locking steering column? If locking, then likely the same as our USA spec. That said, our cars have a rectangular plug with 5 wires/terminals, that plugs into the back of the ELECTRICAL switch on the steering column lock assembly (grannyknot showed our lock assembly in a pic a few posts back & datzenmike's pic of his 710 lock assembly is very similar to our 510). The electrical switch pulls out of the back of the steering column lock assembly. The very first pic you posted looks kinda like our 620 pick up switch...........?? If that is your switch, can you post a pic of the terminals on the back?