yenpit

Agree, but rumor has it that the "vaccine" (haha funny) was made available WAAAAAAAAY before any other "vaccine" ever was before, as if they already had something ready or at least in the works......?? Again, I'm not really into conspiracy theories, but this did cross my mind. I don't trust ANYBODY directly involved in this mess 😣

Maybe somebody will like this theory...........SARS developed by man around 1998, seen to be a potential bio weapon. Secret developments, secret studies, secret testing has been happening all this time. The left/socialists/marxists (who the f**k ever!) saw it as a means of defense, but also as a means of controlling the people. It is now obvious that CV19 was developed under gain-of-function by Wuhan, by f**king Fauci & the NIH (thus the USA was involved). There was a left/socialist (Soros?) agenda in place, to release it "under control", however Trump got elected & threw a big huge rusty wrench in their l'il plan. How & why CV19 got "out" may never be discovered........but it did. Perhaps it was an accident. Perhaps this gave the left a reason to make Trump look bad (I will remind you Trump haters.........I never liked Trump as a person, but that sob got sh*t done for this country!), thus they "purposely released it" during his term, so they could blame something on him. Trump trusted Fauci, so he allowed him to do what he did (which was NOTHING worthwhile). Now they are simply going by their plan/agenda.........or just making it up as hey go, trying to clean up the mess they created. Swallow that.....................😐😣

Didn't know you had more than one 510! The 73 was an old race car? What about the 69?

We use Novita brand part #EL12 heavy duty electronic flashers (not original contact point style) in ALL of our classic car repairs/builds, in BOTH turnsignal & hazard (cuz iirc the turnsignal circuit runs THRU the hazard circuit on Datsun's), as long as the original flashers are 2 terminal. Novita makes a 3 terminal, but don't know the part #! We just installed both in a 1970 240Z the other day, fixed the "slow flash" issue! 😎

We modified an old ANSA double stacked tailpipe, that had a Y from a single pipe to the double pipe. The inlet pipe was the stock pea-shooter size, we wanted it to match the larger midpipe, so we cut & welded, similar to what Stoffregen suggested. I bet our fab guy had 3++ hours in it at $125hr = $375........but we are perfectionists! A 510 downpipe made in house, will be more complicated, thus likely more expensive. What did the local shop quote you? If you need a stock 510 downpipe now for a project, I have one left.......was holding on to for my next 510 project (if I get another 🙄), but that is nowhere in sight! PM me! TJ

Let me know! I just talked to my buddy last week about getting a couple from him............ I sandblast & BLACK ceramic coat...........looks great! You & those in humid/wet areas would want to get coated very quickly after blasting, cuz raw cast iron oxidizes VERY QUICKLY!! Our fab guy has made Y pipes here at the shop, but lots of labor time, so not cheap! A good muffler shop would be cheaper........just not as nice!! 😎

I assume by his sig, that he is in Dublin IRELAND! Mmmmmmmm Guinness!! 🥰 If Mike says no headlight relay on a late 620, I would suspect the indicator switch (turn signal switch for Hainz) or the headlight switch.............remove, clean, check contacts & re-grease. If it turns out that the indicator switch is damaged, just keep in mind that the late 620 is different than the early 620.........at least here in the States!

510 or 520 521 620 truck? I think you have 510's only? The upper flanges are the same (PS that "bluehands" online is Mike Klotz who is on here somewhere), but the actual shape of the downpipes are different............the 510 needs to clear the steering box & the trucks need to clear the suspension torsion rod. Apparently they do not interchange.......... If 510, all 1968-1973 2dr 4dr Wagon are the same, although some of the aftermarket from back in the day (all are NLS NLA now) look a little different in overall length. I just ran out of good USED 510 downpipes, but a regional buddy says he might have some...............if he does, I will be buying them to re-sell. PM me if interested! TJ

PM sent!

The "smaller cars" ie the 1200 B210 210 series had a smaller spline! Yes, the 521 is the same spline as the 510 610 710 620 720 Z cars 280ZX, but the hubs do NOT fit the 521 steering column cover/clamshell. Jake Anderson on Facebook (think his business name is jakemakes??) 3D printed a "longer" 2pc cover (towards the driver) to fill in the big gap, when using the 510 etc hub...............I do NOT know if that particular product turned out or not (he has made LOTS of 521/521 parts!). The other issue is that I do not know if the "horn ring" on the hub lines up with the "horn contact" on the 521..........??

Already happening Mr Mike!! 😎

So what is the verdict? More waste of time or will the good ol' USA get something that actually PROTECTS us?

Brother, I am glad you are here to shed light on most of this crap, thru your career experience!! Thank you!! 😎

Pretty cool! 😎 Your signature says Laurel...............is that what you are asking for? Hopefully some JDM guys on here, as I don't think North America ever got the Laurel...........

Nice! 😎

Pretty sure the AUTO flexplate bolts are shorter than the MANUAL flywheel bolts. I have plenty of each USED if you still need. PM if interested! The pressure plate bolts I would suggest Grade 8 if you buy new at the hardware store.

Yup, we carefully cut & re-weld these days, on our vintage race 240Z's. I have a set of complete ZX struts, but the shipping cost to the UK would kill him! Hopefully he can find a ZX parts car over there!

At bottom of this thread, use "reply to this topic", window pops up, look in lower left corner, see paperclip & should say "Drag files here to attach, or choose files". Files need to be smaller, so might need to resize 😁

Labubre, how strict is the MOT? If they see that split collar that datzenmike is suggesting (good suggestion, I've done it before!), would they fail the car? If you stick with your smaller wheel/tyre (see what I did there 😉), you could cut off the stock spring perch, slide that spring perch DOWN the tube a little & reweld.........but you are limited cuz it can rub on the tire, if you reweld too low! If you go to a larger wheel/tire, you probably can't do this, cuz a larger diameter wheel/tire combo might be overall taller...........?? Somebody else suggested "sectioning" the strut tube & using another strut insert. Good idea, but also pretty permanent...............don't mess that up! Do you have 79-83 280ZX's in the UK? If so, find a good clean set of the front struts..........you can not use the ZX springs or top hats, so don't buy them. Cut off the ZX spring perch, swap on the 510 spring perch & reweld. You could also "section" the ZX strut tube............I think the Toyota MR2 is a good strut INSERT to use..........it is a little shorter than the original ZX insert. In all of these scenario's, you would use the 510 coil spring, so you could also cut off a SMALL section of the coil..............but listen to datzenmike...........research, calculate etc before cutting!! Coilovers are a great idea, but the cost is likely the highest in all of these scenario's!