captaingamez

I absolutely love your car man. Del sol are such badass cars. do a transtop conversion!!!, lolol, JKJK. My friend has one with a complete EP3 drivetrain in it. K20A3 and 5 speed tuned on Kpro. If you want some badass awesome power and torque, and still keep it low cost ish, I would highly reccomend doing it. I drove the car, and its ridiculous. But I would probably just rock that bad boy stock.

Better yet, lets take it back 100 years, and modify the busa motor to become a hit and miss gas motor, we can run it on propane, get 15 hp, AND old school is the new cool right?

I have had suspension issues on/off since like the second year I had it. The guy before me had put Skunk2 Pro S coilovers on, they handled okay, until one of the fronts blew. With limited funds and a good set of coilovers in the back still I opted to just replace the front with another set of Skunk2 that they sold me at a good discount. About a year later, the rear skunk started leaking, though the dampening was fine, I didnt want leaky shocks so I found a set of Koni rears for really cheap, brand new. I mounted them on Sprint springs and rode them and they handled great. Had them in for a year and one of the front Skunk2s started to wear. I didnt notice anything while driving but I pulled my wheel off for something else one day and noticed that the damper rod was somewhat loose in the shock body, not leaking and not causing a problem. I took that as a warning and bought Koni fronts. I already had the springs from Sprint so install wasnt too bad. I just had to cut up a set of RSX knuckles to slide the Koni dampers into. I installed the Koni's specifically how Koni explains to in their instructions. That was where everything went wrong. I had them in and when the car was sitting, installed to Koni's specs, they give you just under an inch of damper travel. That is not going to work on a lowered car. The ride was terrible, absolutely terrible, and then one of the dampers (after a few months of abuse) came apart. God, IDK what car these particular dampeners get installed in in that maner, but someone needs to visit Koni and tell them they are fooking this particular set up bad. To add insult to injury, somebody on Grassroots Motorsports already figured this out and found a solution, the solution is to not listen to Koni's instructions and mount them in the original knuckle an inch lower than specified. If only I had found that before. UGH. So to make a point to my long winded post about suspension issues I am now installing something else, I have been tooling around on the old Skunk2 fronts for a few weeks now and they were about to go too. So I picked these up for CHEAP from a very good buddy who works for Hasport. He had only 4k miles on them and his EP got wrecked. They are still under warranty for 2 more years. The build quality is spectacular. Dampeners are made in a quality controlled facility in Taiwan and the rest is made in the USA.

On any brand, Always use Manufacturer sealants. Thermal Intake manifold Gasket, (someone needs to make these for L series, seriously) mmmmmmmm, delicious Trans attached and in the air and bam. a few hours later it was in. Didnt take many pictures on reassembly, since we were busy.

This happened back in like the end of march-ish Yes I did have that ugly ricey yellow hose in there, lol. And the old K20A3 is out. Its actually a lot easier to work on than it looks Trans separated, Very expensive trans I might add, thats why it still feels brand spanking new at 240,000 and now 270+k miles.

I havent posted anything about my daily since being on here, so here it is. Its manual like all SI of course, 2.0 liter K20A3 engine, 160 hp, 131 ft lb. I am gonna get newer pics soon, I need to give the car a wash. In this pic you can see that some dickbag has stolen my front grill. I have a new one now, but I drove like that for like a year til I found an OEM one for a good price. Theres quite a bit done to it, but most of it is pretty hidden, I do not like showy, OR RICEY HONDAS. I FUCKING HATE THAT HORSESHIT. I have had the car since July of 09, and I dont plan on getting rid of it. heres a list of mods. Lenso TE38 (wheels it came with, I am not a fan of knock offs, but they are at least nice knock offs and I get a ton of compliments on them, I am saving for real wheels) SS brake lines Drop engineering driver, rear and front motor mounts Avid new design Passenger motor mount. Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit. Buddy Club extended ball joints (roll center adjuster) Ingalls rear adjustable upper control arm rear 22mm sway bar rear subframe brace front 15mm sway bar Mishimoto radiator, Gates hoses (Gates everything associated with the cooling system) Odyssey PC680 battery relocated in cabin. Cat delete. Fujita short ram larger, heat wrapped header K20A2 RSX TYPE S 310cc injectors Aluminium fuel rail. K24A1 engine swap thermal intake manifold gasket other BS I cant think of The K20A3 engine started to get a tiny head gasket leak around 240,000 miles (totally my fault, used non Honda coolant and didnt take care of it) So I bought a CRV K24A1 engine (2.4 liter :w00t: ) from LKQ.

they "modified" it. That must be why its terrible, everyone knows Mercedes cant engineer anything right :rofl: :rofl:

You would have to cut the living crap out of the truck to put it in. However you could just build the L20B into a turbo. I wish I could get my hands on an L20ET stateside easily.....

I am frankly in awe of the ignorance behind you saying that the L series was the worst designed engines ever honestly. That only means that you have virtually no experience with engines. I can think of only 20+ engines without even trying that are terrible pieces of trash in comparison to the L series. Even Toyota nuts revere the L series for its reliability and performance, True story. Shit, most of them would tell you the 7M was the worst engine ever designed.......(and Ill give you a huge guess what the JZ is based off of, lol)

I used to build Hyabusa motors, And I have a few friends who work for Fast by Gast who build Hyabusa motors all day. I know damn well what I am talking about when I talk about that tranny. So you are going to run the transmission, through another transmission? Sounds really awesome. Also its not possible for something in a Hyabusa tranny to be "misaligned" or "unbalanced" because if it is, the transmission will not go back together or fit inside the case. I have build 3 myself, please dont tgry to "educate" me any farther of your knowledge on Hyabusa engines. So a Hyabusa motor isnt Fanboy enough for you? OK so lets go 2JZ, one of the shittiest inline 6 engines on the planet from a company who could never get the I-6 right. (except that one time in the 2000gt) That is a fact, I also have built 2JZ, and I can tell you, they are straight up fanboy status, they are way over talked, and unless your building a drag car and spending more money than the engine was ever worth, they are useless. And all Toyota I-6 engines have headgasket issues, and also soft head issues. The 2jz is swapped in by every dumb ass fan boy because "Jesse said so", and ya know, "This will decimate all, after about 15k in parts, overnight from japan, if we have to", Keep watching Fast and Furious, theres many other gems with awesome knowledge of tuning in there, Are you putting a Motec System exhaust on it too? Awesome You actually said that? and you want to put an engine in from a company that could never figure the inline 6 out?(Toyota) your kidding right? The L series is very likely one of the single most reliable inline 6 engine ever made, with the Jeep I-6, and the old chevy I-6. And people have made hundreds of horsepower with somewhat minimal work with an L series. I have one myself, they are one of the most reliable engine Nissan ever built. If you have bad heatsoak, try a bigger radiator, and an electric fan on a temperature switch, problem solved.

I love this car man. I love Mitsu, IDK why, but I do. One of my dream cars is a Galant VR4.

Dont forget the LS. Nice build. There was a guy with an 89 at the local show with a nasty turbo MX5 engine in it. Also:

Wrong section. AND no pics.

is there a link to that build?

If only they had made a pantera hatch for the Porsche 944......

RB engines are so awesome In things that took an inline 6. FJ20 FTW. Honestly, I am a mega Nissan head, and I would rather see you shoehorn an LS1 in that thing. I absolutely hate the LS1 swap, but at least that might make some semblance of sense. An RB26 makes virtually no sense, get a different vehicle for it. Most of us are tired of seeing cars hackjobed for an engine that makes the vehicle worse in every way except a straight line.

The carnage which will happen if he decides to actually do this. Carnage A: of the engine not handling the extreme weight, B: of watching and trying to understand the point behind a tube framed 520 with a busa motor. (carnage being the entire project at that point) As I said could you do it? That question is asked and answered and asked enough that you should all know the answer. Of course you can, with a bunch of money and a bunch of time. But that doesnt mean you should waste either resource on something that actually doesnt have a reason to be built. other than "woot!! look!! busa in a truck!!" Given the same money, why would you do this build? what is the advantage? do you just want to be different? Any other 4 cylinder in that truck would be faster, cheaper, better looking, easier tuning, and more reliable, and more fun to drive. And not to mention that this is pretty much an unoriginal idea, being that everyone into bikes has been under the "throw busa motors in everything" sun for quite a while, a quick hop over to Youtube will show you that. This whole thread reminds me of this recent gem. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58272-datsun-210-rb20det/

Are those the stock 240k seats? They are beautiful, I need a set of those for my 910 project....

Guess he didnt pay attention when I said the trans casing will crack. Im subbing to see the carnage.

Only some of them. I was just staring two dead in the face an hour ago. both were the side/top configuration like the one shown. I think the late SA have them, and all FC have them. While the early SA have the ones out the front. heres one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-FC-FC3S-RX-7-RX7-Oil-Cooler-S4-S5-86-91-ROTARY-/161145142714?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2584ffbdba&vxp=mtr

Thats a first gen rx7 oil cooler.

You just wont enjoy driving the car anymore man. And its probably not gonna last long if you do get it done. Its setup for 170ftlb at 3k yes. that might be true. (even though that is the best busa motor I have ever heard of in my life if it is true.) I have run Busa engines rangingin size and HP from the stock 170 1300cc, all the way to 1400cc 500hp monsters. The reality is that the busa engine probably can not handle the weight of the truck. Not power wise, youhave to understand most of the casings on a busa engine are not very thick. The trans casing for example is only about 1/8-3/16 thick of aluminium (measured). The energy being put through the casings will cause them to probably crack under power because the truck is so much heavier. I have seen this happen on 350hp busa engines while still in a Hyabusa!! The force you are talking about putting through that engine (because of the truck weight) is closer to a 700-800hp busa engine in a hyabusa drag bike. The engine casing not might, but absolutely will eventually blow apart if you do not strengthen it. as I said I have seen this on a Hyabusa with 350hp, more than once. Now if you are really serious about doing this, what needs to be done is the engine needs to be separated from the tranny casing and made mountable to a regular clutch and tranny. I would probably do that in a gearbox with something like a 1:1.5 ratio so that you have more torque coming out the tailshaft. Or better yet, V8 Busa engine.

That is awesome man, thanks.

NICE!, Happy B-day man!. $500??, Damn that sounds like a great deal for a rebuild. How long did they say she should take?