Kirden

Old people... does not compute... :confused: :fu:

Datsunfreak sabotaged the welder to get a jump on the 1200 :ninja:

Ok, long time no update cause I've been fighting myself to get this back on the road, but after the huge amount of money I just spent on it I figured I would drop by and leave a list. Reconditioned L20 (6") rods, Reco Z22 crank, 87.5mm 28.25mm pin height pistons and rings. Still need the SBC ARP rod bolts then the short block is off to the machine shop. Going to have the deck milled to a clean surface, rods modified for ARP bolts, and double check everything for correct bearing sizes. Edit: nevermind, not going to modify the rods to take SBC bolts. Picked up some ARP bolts for the nissan Z20 rods so no modification required :)

I read pages 1-3 and only found 1000 pictures of lots of hoes... :P This one definitely looks like a keeper.

I agree with Komeuppance. While working at mercedes will open many doors for you if you take on all the training and learn as much as possible, it won't teach you the small business skills you would learn from the smaller shop. Things like ordering parts and materials are probably handled by supervisors or even office positions so you never learn these skills, making it a steep curve if you ever opened your own shop. However, if you stick with mercedes and end up a master mechanic you will have a niche in the market and will probably make similar to what a small shop owner makes without as many headaches. It is totally up to your goals. Best thing to do is write out the pros and cons you see for yourself with both decisions. Then speak with some small business owners about the responsibilities and time required to run a business. Neither path is easy, but it comes down to which one fits you best.

Woah! Its a damn zambie thread! :P Good on your for bringing this one back Blue. Love seeing the work you put into all of these Z-cars. I still have to re read the first page to remember the plans on this one cause I was excited to see the update :P The only problem is why isn't it blue yet?

Yea, bout that ford... Honestly if the bed was stock and it was driveable or the red truck didn't run well, I'd trade and never look back. But then again I'd be tanker and have a nice FJ sitting at home so the red truck wouldn't matter as much :P BTW tanker, I honestly didn't know you were a fireman. Congrats to you and thank you for putting your life at risk for others. My sister was trapped in her home in Willows, CA a few years back due to a large neighborhood fire and she was saved. I have a huge amount of respect for fire fighters, especially in wildfire areas.

Ouch, sorry to hear it man. If you feel like dealing with freight and still have a front bumper I'd love to take it off your hands. Not sure what the boat ride would cost but it may be worth it :P

Why are your builds so cool? I want to steal your button heads... Also, what would you charge to make me a copy of your headers? :angel:

Davezilla, if you wouldn't mind a bit of spoon feeding, I would personally love to see some of the links you have. I've been looking into motorcycle carbs and that post is probably the most informative direct post I've seen as far as getting the boost setup working. Now if I can just figure out which main jet to start with maybe I'll be able to dial in the R1s :P

Wait what?! Tanker's a fireman :confused:

lol, I had to post them Tristin. Second one is definitely ricer though. last one, i don't know what the fuck that is. However, it's a crazy build and obviously the guy doesn't give a damn what people think, so it sorta fits :P

Because work truck... nitro because racecar? Cause you know you want it...

Yea, there is no need. That's what all the rx-7 guys say and I trust them :P Side note, for low boost you can get the K&N turbo top hat for a 32/36. It's about $200 and the Aussie Ford guys run them pretty often. It even looks neat :) http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/plenum.htm

He'll call you first, tanker will intercept the call, and then flaunt the 610 by your shop for a week. :devil:

LS7 and these: http://www.extrudabody.com/servlet/the-284/Kit-cln--Chevy-LS7/Detail You know you want to...

That may not be the best idea. You would need to make sure that the pipe from the BOV is all down flow to combat any pooling of the charged mix. With the larger tube the mix gets cooler and slower so that could cause pooling. If the fuel starts to condense out of the charge in this pipe you would need a way to re atomize it or it will end up pooling somewhere in the system. This was the same issue I ran into when planning my draw through supercharger setup because creating a downward flow all the way to the engine is ideal but very unlikely. The thought of fuel sitting in a charge pipe while the car isn't running scares me too much to try it. Personally I decided that a blow-thru setup would work for me, but the benefits of a draw through are very nice for low boost applications.

Sacrilege I know, but I usually trust the rx-7 guys. http://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/do-i-need-bov-draw-through-system-768333/ That being said I don't see how your system would hurt anything, but the BOV may never open.

Another expensive option: http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240+260+280Z+parts Still requires welding to your spindles so add $100-150 for a shop unless you know someone you trust to weld them. $1200+ so basicly figure $1500 for this entire setup if you uninstall and reinstall the parts yourself after having a shop weld them up. This is why the split collar option is so much more attractive :P

That's a neat idea. The only issue I see is weight, but stiffer springs or performance inserts and I guess it would be as good as any other option. Kudos to you :) techno toy offers a full strut swap as stated above but the easiest/cheapest way is going to be gg's method with the split collar. If you go lower and need more travel just take the struts to a machine shop and have the shortened with shorter inserts. Maybe mr2 or 300zx? I think those are shorter. Those options are still much cheaper than a full kit.

RTB I've looked into that LZ setup a lot. The best pistons I could find are skyhawk pistons. They still have to be milled but only somewhere around 0.5mm. They will then be flat tops so you would need to unshroud the valves if you're using a U67. With the right head work you could get the static 10.5:1 CR down to 9.5-9.7:1 or you could have the shop add a small dish in the top of each piston for the same results. The skyhawk pistons have the same pin daimeter, 1.5, 1.5, 3mm ring sizes and just over 29mm pin height. Also, depending on the brand you purchase, most are hypereutetic and you can find any ring composition you want through a lot of american companies. Just something to think about.

Wow mr big. that was a low blow. I just spit my coffee all over the keyboard.

If only that expensive cheap shit would work. Is there an alternative to the AEM :poop: ? I see the pretty often but no one ever brags about them. I still say you have one of the best swaps going on. The only thing that would have fit the truck more imo would have been the ubber rare (maybe non-existant) crossflow LZ. As far as swaps, just throw a SBC in it and be done... I keed I keed...