benzo

Depends on the size of rim and offset and also what look you want and of course budget. 195-55-14 is lower profile but can be expensive. I like using 195-60-14 but this is on a 14x6.5 front and 14x7.5 rear. the back is a bit stretched but not bad. I had 185-60-14 and it was more stetched and did not like seeing no lip protection on the rim so I went to 195's. I am using falken ziex 512's as they were pretty affordable from discount tire direct and free shipping. they are pretty good for daily driving and do track well and are decent in the rain.

Nice. Did you wrap a stock mainfold or header? i am looking to either take off my nissan comp and coat it or go back to stock manifold and coat or wrap it. I need to lower the under hood temp some. I have coated a header for a friend in past using Jet Hot and he told me it was huge help, same response like you. I don't like wrapping steel headers at times as it seems to heat up the welds and the welds break causing leaks. seems wrapping stainless headers work good though

get the battery tested to check if it is holding a charge then check the alternator with a meter and it should be putting out 12v+ and then turn on the lights. normally the voltage will drop but should come back up but if it does not the alternator is not charging. and yes don't forget about the voltage reulator you may have to replace the battery at the same time as once a battery gets drained it can cause it from holding a charge meaning it is done for its service life

wonder if Kragen or o'reilly's may sell them as i may have saw some but not sure about threading but another option since the pan is steel grab a plug from a car like a honda for example and maybe well a bung threaded for the new plug over the hole of the stock drain hole. I know many people make magnetic plugs for hondas

Cleaning the car now just a quick vaccum and going to go get some floor mats. Bre_datsun how did you like wrapping your header? I notice wrap works very well with good results

I agree to get a good filtration system but as to which is superior it can go on for days there have been so many claims on whose is better. K+N and pipercross and ITG have been around for a long time and have done many tests to verify that for running such high flow filters they do pretty well keeping things clean. Now I went with my slip overs per my given situation as I wanted that particular look and also for me it was nice and easy. so far to date it is working out nice. before I had the slip on's my velocity stacks would have build up on them and would have to clean them off but so far with the slip on's there has not been build up or it may be taking longer for buildup to happen. as for making filters any low budget idea that can work is great but one thing to remember it is based on your application. some webers do not have horns that screw or bolt on with a flange they slip into the carb so it would be hard to make a filter for those so this is why some people get slip on's like the ones Pierce manifolds or Wolf creek sell where they can go over the horn. Ideally if possible I would rather have a airbox with a filter inside and ducted to cool air. this is nice on L motors as the air box can block out heat to the carbs from the headers which are right underneath and also from some of my dynoing I have done in past a airbox moves the power band or torque sooner for street cars and the longer intake from a intake tube increases when power is happening. that is why now at days you see kits like aem's cold air intakes and also K+N make air boxes with their elements to keep heat out. I have even seen filters that were too restrictive and it hurt performance or hence like the above comment mess up idle and or idle tuning. you will be surprised a lot of research and engineering go into making a filter. I would not mind testing my slip on's though to see the actual test #'s for filtration performance

I guess you can do it two ways mesure the length of the tube internally from top to bottom and then measure the insert and deduct from there. Or you can cut the tube and then put the portion you cut off with the nut screwed on next the housing and insert installed to see where it all fits and then measure the amount you need to cut. the main thing is you need to keep the top portion that has the threading. remember also it is easier to cut metal than to add metal so if ermish says cutting 1.5 is recommended and ends you need to cut more at least you have room to play but if you cut 2" you may end up too short.

go onto the site and see what size you need. I think mine were about 38.00 per carb plus shipping and tax so about 100 or so. I was originally going to get ITG's but this is way more affordable and was easy to install. just measure the outside of the air horns and that will help for ordering. Pierce manifolds is great and have been dealing with them for years. side note I had been running for a bit with no filters which is not good but luckily did not drive the car a lot. when I put the filters on there was no ill effects.

I got the same filters that Wolf Creek sells but I got mine from pierce manifolds and am happy with them. they fit well and are affordable or at least in my opinion.

I had driven a sohc KA with Carbs and it ran good but yeah EFI is better for daily driving and economy but if you want it simple to start off it should work out fine. you can always do efi later or go individual throttle bodies and convert to efi. sometimes good to use carbs to learn how to tune. I learned and am learning still. talk to Troy Ermish as he was one of the first person's i met who have been doing this swap setup with good success and has parts to support the setup/swap. I even thought if I do another car to keep it somewhat simple I would do this swap or even a hopped up Z24 bottom end with a KA sohc or dohc head conversion or see rebello as they are good at doing those.

I think you can use a heater hose from a honda or acura that is u shaped and has the same pipe I.D. the honda hose comes off the block to the thermostat housing you may have to do some cutting but has a nice u shape to it. just go to a honda dealer parts and pull up the schematic and it should show on there.

I personally am a Ground Control user and like them. One of the orginators of the affordable coil over kit makers and they have the knowledge and background. Ermish kits do look good and believe they are good units based on the components he uses to make his kits and yeah Troy does have a track background and has been a 510 owner/enthusiast for a long time. In other words stick with companies that have experience

check parts houses to get the 11mm ones, I got 11mm ones for my car from my parts house. they were beck arnley units.

I hear you. actually I have been wanting another 240Z myself. I think I am more in love with the styling and they are fun to drive. I am moving away from caring about big HP and like clean styling and handling. don't get me wrong HP and TQ is sweet but I really love the simplicity of the older cars like 510's and z's and that whole period of styling

yours may be the 11mm units. from my experience I have seen 11mm and 14mm ones. My car used the 11mm's and I got mine from a parts store I go to. they were beck arnley units. if you don't have one in your area I should be able to get them for you still. try to take pics or you can see them on my flickr account under benzo610. I show a difference between a 11mm and 14mm unit

I really liked this post. Thinking out of the box and a cool car can be built with not a lot of money just have to be resourceful

yeah would like to hear the outcome. this is good info. rear brakes get looked over by many and lot of people don't know drum brakes can be adjusted or need servicing

I have a feeling that autopower rollbar for a sedan or coupe oould fit in a wagon but maybe with some modifying to the rear legs. meaning cut them off and re position them. I think the main hoop should work in a wagon. I bet it could be done for not that much money or hard modifying. as to using a cage or bar to make safe for kids to roll around I would say not a good idea. pain to get kids in and out and don't want to them hitting their heads on it. if the kids are small a child seat should be good but maybe look at updating the seat belts. now if you mean a latch system for driver and passenger I believe normally you would mount to a roll bar or cage but if no cage or bar is present you may have to weld in a harness bar from behind the seats that spans across the width of the car mounted to the door frame support. I have seen people mount harnesses to the floor or at hard angles and from talking to others hear it is not good as that can cause submarining of the body and cause damage to your back or break your back.

Nice wheeks simple and clean, wanna see the ending outcome

if you can get a compression tester or leak down tester to test compression of the motor

I remember when my fusible link by the starter wire broke the car would not start and no lights appeared on the dash when I turned the key. try looking at that also and see if the wire or terminals are damaged

one love for now but have considered a collection

wouldn't go and say cops hate old school cars might want to change that title but the message was sent so hopefully you learned from this on what to do and what not to do. I get cops all the time telling me they love my car or say it is a keeper. Yeah gotta respect the neighborhood like others said don't shit in your own backyard. Hope you get the car fixed correctly so others that do like old school cars don't get a black eye from issues like this

Looks nice. I have been wanting a kit. what kit are you using and what headlight housings. I am looking for a housing which i don't have to modify buckets and correct me on this if I am wrong but do HID kits just plug into the existing headlight plug and the amplifier just amplify the output from the stock plug to the new HID bulbs?

seems like you may also have a bad or failing master but check that booster also. also check for any leaking calipers and or leaking wheel cylinders.