demo243

I used to like BAT... they always had some cool cars that we pretty good deals... Now they are just driving prices up wild! Everyone with a rusted shell thinks they are sitting on a pot of gold. Cars that are worth $500 bucks are being advertised at $5-10,000! I know they will never get that price, but it has really driven up the cost of driveable cars. I have really started to hate the site.

Glad to hear you got it figured out! Seems a lot of people are afraid to rewire their cars... but it’s not that bad and is so much nicer with new wires.

I Was going to this fall but but a couple other things got in the way $ wise... probably in the spring- I think it would help drive a bility a lot... there is a lot of roll in the turns.

Check the steering arm to strut bolts - especially if you are running bump steer spacers, if those come loose you will get play that could cause that wobble.

Could be a number of things- when does it shake? Under braking? Under coasting? Under braking indicates pad material on the rotors or “warped” rotors. While coasting or under acceleration indicates something in the linkage- like worn tie rods.

I used to say that... now mines pretty low. I’d go lower in the front of mine but then I can’t turn cause the tires rub to much hahaha

Well I guess thats it... The end of Datsun Driving Season here in the northeast--- 4" of snow in Mass today... and the salt truck definitely drove by! Untitled by D M, on Flickr Hopefully I am wrong, and we get a good couple days of rain to wash the salt off and I can sneak a few more days in.

Well I guess thats it... The end of Datsun Driving Season here in the northeast--- 4" of snow in Mass today... and the salt truck definitely drove by! Untitled by D M, on Flickr Hopefully I am wrong, and we get a good couple days of rain to wash the salt off and I can sneak a few more days in.

The unfortunate early end to Datsun driving season... mine are tucked away in the garage... saw the salt truck drive by earlier, so unless we get a good couple days of rain they will stay there.

Just push the truck half out the garage then - achieves the same result of giving you space to pull the hoist back

Might help if you turn the truck around so you can pull the hoist with the engine out enough— or you can push the truck half out the garage to do that

I think you’ll have enough space- may have to shorten the chain on that harbor freight hoist and keep the chain on the engine short.

I got one of the levelers... but it ended up being more work then it was worth... at least for me. It was easier to just move things around by the tail end of the trans. Leveler also didnt let me get the angle steep enough to drop the combo in. It does add a good 10+" to the height you need to raise it as well so if you have a tight spot it will be tough.

Check out Fbook or Craiglist too- I scored a nice picker and engine stand for $100 bucks around the corner from me when I was in Cali. Worked out perfected--- picked up the KA for the 510 in the morning and grabbed the hoist and stand on my way home. They are big so people want to get ride of them.

Just saw the photo you posted and got me thinking back to my old Tacoma. The 95-04 Tacomas have a very simple hitch. You would have to take some measurements and do some digging but there is a good chance you could find one in a junk yard --- or replacements are not that expensive. Could be a nice tucked up option. Here is a tucked version from All Pro Offroad designed to fit behind their bumper. Mounts between the frame rails. The stock hitch drops down a little bit further. https://allprooffroad.com/all-armor/1995-2004-toyota-tacoma-reciever-hitch-for-wrap-around-rear-bumper.html

Prime driving season! Perfect for those adventures.

Nice looking truck! Dig the new wheels! Everyone has their oil preferences... hahaha. I love mobil 1 but only in my Tacoma. For the dattos I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil- it has the extra zddp in it- just another option for you. The diesel oils might be cheaper. I don’t really need to use it anymore since I’m KA swapped in both... but probably still will.

Gotta love Ratsun!

ok- just went and checked my setups. the only correction I made above is the grounds for the relays. low beam relay is grounded always to common ground. hi beam ground is run through the selector stalk when highs are turned on via the stalk both Low and highs are on. both my 510 and 620 are h4 bulb converted not that it should make a difference

Happy to help! Id have to look into the stock light switch diagram a bit more - or maybe someone else can chime in, but if it isn’t capable of handling the power for the headlights run through it you could add a 3rd relay in there — or potentially reuse the stock original one in that spot. Relays essentially let you use a low power switch to turn on and off a high power accessory- if you aren’t familiar with them. They protect the switch and keep you from running to much power through them. Wiring is a bit weird, but overall fairy simple, just need to get in the right mindset hahah.

Ill have to go check this afternoon and see if I can confirm this... but if I remember correctly this should help. I will preface this with saying both my 620 and my 510 have custom dashes so I didn't need to try to use the stock 510 or 620 headlight switch. With that in mind it was simpler to use the supplied American Autowire headlight switch which was designed to handle the power for the headlights run through it. For reference here is the quick schematic for the American Autowire set up (Highway 15) - you may need to open it up in my flickr page to get the full size or google it. I have this diagram in my 510 build photos--- BUT --- I did NOT wire it up this way --- helps for general idea of how the relays work though. So with all that info--- From the American Autowire Headlight switch --- Park Lights (Brown) went direct to the parking lights with the needed splicing/splits to get to all of them. Dimmer Feed (Yellow) --- this per American Autowire is supposed to go to their floor mounted dimmer switch for hi/low beam power, but I wanted to use the stock 510/620 stalk, so I ran the yellow feed wire to the new relays as the power from battery (30). Crtsy Dome (white) - didnt use since I dont have one. Gauge lights (grey) - to gauge lights HL power in from fuse panel (red) - power in from panel Park power in from panel (orange) - power in from panel Relay set up- Post 30 -- Yellow (from AAW light switch on above schematic)- Power from dimmer feed from american autowire switch, split into two wires and run to Post 30 on both relays. Post 85 - Ground — low beam relay always grounded to common ground- high beam relay grounded to common ground through hi-beam selector stalk Post 86 - Power In (generic) - Run to 86 on both relays to provide power for the relays to function --- be sure to run this from a switched power source! If it is run from a always on source it will drain your battery. Post 87 - Power out - Run from 87 to their respective bulbs (hi/low) with a split off the high to power the high beam indicator. Post 87a - not used Essentially my low beam relay is always on, and power to the lows is supplied through the AAW light switch—high beam headlight relay functions off of a switched ground which is provided by the turn signal/hi-low stalk and the relays have constant power to function. As I said I will try to confirm this later this afternoon.

I used American auto wire to wire up my 620 and 510. American auto wires fuse panel had some relays built in, and I added two for the high and low beam headlights. I ended up using the American auto wire headlight switch in both, but kept the stalk for hi/low function. it’s been over a year since I did the 620 and a few since I did the 510- so unfortunately don’t remember specifics off the top of my head. Both are running aftermarket gauges now too. if you get stuck on something I can check into how I wired it up on mine.

Another note- @Jsoi510 since you are redoing all the wiring the stock diagram really isn’t about the colors of what goes to what —- since I’m assuming you already pulled all the stock wires. It’s really about understanding how the system was designed, what splices into what and how the switches work. It helps you redesign the EZ system to match/work for the Datsun system. I found it helped to draw/write out some of the more complicated systems before actually wiring them up. hope that makes sense

Once you get rolling it gets easier! if you haven’t done so already print one of these out to cross reference. copied this from zcar Break it down simply to power and ground. Worthwhile to update your headlight relays while your at it. Headlights and turn/hazards are the hardest part.

Not much to update... Got some time to mess around with it this afternoon and swapped the B&M short shifter to a stock KA shifter -- my god the throws are long! -- anyway it unfortunately did not fix my deceleration grind... so that rules out the shifter... need to get under the car again to see if the trans is potentially contacting the tunnel... but I dont think it is. That leads to either u-joints from the driveshaft or a bad transmission or the fidenza flywheel is too light and doesnt dampen the vibrations enough... Anyway... I think I am going to pick up another ebay cheapo short shifter, I like the feel of that one in the 620 better then the super notchey B&M one. The B&M one really doesnt like reverse, which is quite annoying...