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Z-train

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Everything posted by Z-train

  1. A four link, AND flares?
  2. Inside was channeled ,then filled and blended.Outside,"you getz what you seez". Here's a better shot(a little).
  3. A Mike Klotz adapter stitched to the manifold.
  4. Z-train

    810!

    If it says Maxima-it's a 910.Completely different under-pinnings than a 810.
  5. Mike that picture is from my friends 71 Lemans Wagon.455 D-ports,with the only aftermarket parts being cam,lifters & headers.Everything else is scienced out proven stuff.The car weighs 4100lbs and runs 11.3 @ 124 with a 3.55 gear.If that cold air set-up didn't produce an advantage-it wouldn't be there. Now will you see this improvement on a "normal Datsun"......maybe not.
  6. Z-train

    810!

    I just re-read your post.810 or Maxima bar?
  7. Z-train

    810!

    I'll check.But they were standard equipment on 810's.All of mine have them.
  8. Physics dictates that lowering the temperature of the intake charge will produce more power.How much power? That is vehicle by vehicle debate-able point.Now are a lot of the "bolt -on pipes" a joke? Definately. On the trucks, something like this could be fabbed.I know it'll work in a 620.
  9. Z-train

    1976 620

    Un-hook the booster and cap the fitting on the manifold.Drive the truck. The pedal will be a bitch to push but it will stop the vehicle. If your issue is solved, then you have your answer.If not,you would have spent a bunch of money & time for nothing.
  10. Z-train

    1976 620

    You tested and know it's the booster or are you throwing parts at it?
  11. Z-train

    810!

    I might.But it won't be until next week that I can check.
  12. No four barrel belongs on these engines.Fix one issue at a time.Once a 32/36 is dialed in,they are a really good piece.
  13. Z-train

    1976 620

    More than likely,Mike is correct.But there is a chance it's a mixture issue.
  14. Fusible link is a wire that looks like a wire but isn't-got that? It's actually a fuse that is designed to burn in the case of an overload.From the picture it LOOKS like just a red piece of standard wire especially with those connectors. If so,your wiring harness has no protection and COULD be melted into a mess if something shorts. You can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/30amp-Automotive-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B005LQ301Y Providing it's the proper value.
  15. Is that a "red wire" in place of a fusible link?If so,really,REALLY not a good idea,especially since you are having electrical issues right now. Also,as to batteries-there is no rhyme or reason for them to drop. They can be 2 hours,2 weeks,2 months or two years old. Nature of the beast.
  16. Here in the Desert every two might work.In damper enviroments,the period needs to be shorter.
  17. Seller is responsible for it passing SMOG.
  18. The one in Long Beach is un-sellable(in state).
  19. Good info.Taking one step further,after you hone it,take a dentist pick and start feeling all over the bore.If it catches on anything,that is pitting from corrosion and the cylinder is junk-throw it out. The corrosion comes from water in the system. This is why brake systems need to be flushed on a regular basis.
  20. Double Standards When a girl gets a vibrator, it's seen as a bit of naughty fun. BUT when a guy orders a 240-volt FuckMaster Pro 5000 blowup latex doll with 6-speed pulsating pussy, elasticized anus with non-drip semen collection tray, together with optional built in realistic orgasm scream surround sound system, he's called a pervert!
  21. Speed reading...got me.oops.Sorry to disappoint Mike.Back to topic,still more issues than engine speed.
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