Mike that picture is from my friends 71 Lemans Wagon.455 D-ports,with the only aftermarket parts being cam,lifters & headers.Everything else is scienced out proven stuff.The car weighs 4100lbs and runs 11.3 @ 124 with a 3.55 gear.If that cold air set-up didn't produce an advantage-it wouldn't be there.
Now will you see this improvement on a "normal Datsun"......maybe not.
Physics dictates that lowering the temperature of the intake charge will produce more power.How much power? That is vehicle by vehicle debate-able point.Now are a lot of the "bolt -on pipes" a joke? Definately.
On the trucks, something like this could be fabbed.I know it'll work in a 620.
Un-hook the booster and cap the fitting on the manifold.Drive the truck. The pedal will be a bitch to push but it will stop the vehicle. If your issue is solved, then you have your answer.If not,you would have spent a bunch of money & time for nothing.
Fusible link is a wire that looks like a wire but isn't-got that?
It's actually a fuse that is designed to burn in the case of an overload.From the picture it LOOKS like just a red piece of standard wire especially with those connectors. If so,your wiring harness has no protection and COULD be melted into a mess if something shorts.
You can use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/30amp-Automotive-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B005LQ301Y
Providing it's the proper value.
Is that a "red wire" in place of a fusible link?If so,really,REALLY not a good idea,especially since you are having electrical issues right now.
Also,as to batteries-there is no rhyme or reason for them to drop. They can be 2 hours,2 weeks,2 months or two years old. Nature of the beast.
Good info.Taking one step further,after you hone it,take a dentist pick and start feeling all over the bore.If it catches on anything,that is pitting from corrosion and the cylinder is junk-throw it out. The corrosion comes from water in the system. This is why brake systems need to be flushed on a regular basis.
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