Z-train

I'm putting 3.88s behind my LZ-23.Should be about perfect.

Buy here a membership to Golds Gym.Cheaper and way easier for everyone concerned.

What part of"it's not about the air" don't you understand?It's about revenueing and getting our cars off the street. :angry: In the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia,your car can be running FIVE TIMES cleaner than the specs for the car call for but you will FAIL if any "equiptment" is tampered with or removed.As i said--they don't give a shit about the air.So with this in mind-YOU should care what they are doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGrYuk8Lf6M&feature=player_embedded#! You need one that flips sown to avoid the camera which is 12-15 feet in the air.

What Mike said.The bore measurements will TELL you what you are going to do.

Is that a second gen 200SX under there? http://biggeekdad.com/2010/08/hair-conditioner/

How about Charcoal?

Permits?We don't need no stinking permits.Open carry and the law just changed so ANYONE can carry concealed.

Actually,keep the existing pump and reg it down will keep better pressure and recirculate fuel.

What ever $ you're going to pay for the parts,you could pay someone to fix the FI and you'll be miles ahead.THere are simply no advantages of putting a carb on an FI motor(all things being equal)

"purged" means the truck was un-registered for so long that the plate dropped off the computer system.Has nothing to do with being wrecked.

http://tucson.craigslist.org/pts/1884073106.html

Grand Canyon was formed by ONE Datsun owner who dropped a nickel in a Gopher hole. :blink:

Update-no issues since finding the solder joint problem.

Might be something this simple: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17807-280zzx-ecm-tech/page__p__245153__hl__ecm__fromsearch__1#entry245153

Are you sure it's the computer?

Tall order-good luck.

Medium block 2.4 Liter. Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications. Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled. parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods s/2+r+p: 227.7 piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck)

It's on the 1st hole It's a Weber with the Hitachi can on it.It loses ONE hp over no aircleaner on the dyno. This motor is making the power RIGHT where i want it.This going to be my wifes DD.And those carbs would be EXTREMELY mis-matched with the cam. Yes,Chassis dyno. I just found out she had her first "ecounter" on the street with it.She's very happy right now.

I'll get the specs from Rebello.

Ya'll did notice i added the specs underneath the pics-right?If someone wants the cam specs,i can dig them up.I couldn't have asked for a better outcome with this motor.The wife drove it for the first time and came back and said-this thing goes!I can't wait to get the 3.88s in there to match that powerband. By the way-anyone care to guess how much HP the stock aircleaner costs you?Take a guess. One last thing notice the AFR curve-like a board.

Z-22 block & crank,Z-20 rods,Pistons & cam by Rebello,L-20b head,L-18 intake,32/36 Weber

http://www.peranausa.com/

THe battery should be 12 or higher WITH OUT the car running.It should be btween 13.0 & 14.5 or so.