mklotz70

They've got some nice stuff. Thanks! Maybe a cover could be designed and 3D printed?

putting the relay in the headlight circuit is a great upgrade.....pretty much a MUST DO in my book. My wife's 521 melted several fuses before I did it to hers. Where did you get that module?

A simple Bosch 30A relay like in Mike's diagram will work perfect. I put one on my wife's 521 15+yrs ago and it's never had any hiccups at all. The old switches and connections can be resistive enough to cause the problem you're having. The started solenoid is just a big relay, as mentioned, but it actually takes a fair amount of juice to be fully activated. The Bosch relay barely takes anything and will certainly send a nice amount to the starter. I know Mike's diagram shows the trigger voltage coming from the ignition switch, but keep in mind, you can just use the trigger wire that's connected to the starter solenoid. It may not matter in your situation, but for others reading this, it will keep any of the other safety switches in the circuit....such as neutral safety and clutch safety.

You might try ceramic pads if they're available....they'll stop like organic, wear like semi-metallic and the dust created has a different static charge so it doesn't build up on the rims as bad. Otherwise, sorry, but there's nothing for those knuckles. You can easily swap to HB(post '85) spindles. Disconnect the ball joints, tie rod and hose and swap them over. You can swap the entire assembly or just pieces if you do just the spindles. You can use dropped spindles if you want to be a bit lower. For what you want, you'd probably be better getting just the spindles, then get v6/4wd rotors and 2 piston calipers....you can use your 620 hubs. I know the HB setup will fit stock steel rims, but I'm not 100% if the v6 setup will. More hub info.... http://www.bluehandsvideo.com/hub-info.html You could also convert to 5 lug with the HB spindles....if you really wanted to...http://www.bluehandsvideo.com/5-lug-swap-nissan-d21-hardbody.html I know ceramic pads are available for the HB setup. Considering how many guys are drifting HB's these days, you can probably get even more aggressive pads if you look around for them. You can also get drilled and/or slotted rotors for the HB setup....probably for the v6 version, too.....http://www.bluehandsvideo.com/rotors.html

are you sure it's not the cylinder holding the shoe out too far? You might crack open the bleeder valve and squeeze the shoes in....looks like there's a gap between the spreader bar and the shoe.

This should answer your questions. I'm not sure if I have any left....seems I slowly sold them off a year ago.

I posted a bit of info on IG one of the clips shows why the 1741 will not mount in the dual point. I suppose it wouldn't be that hard to design a replacement plate to make it work. https://www.instagram.com/p/C9aVqXsvbKs/?img_index=1

This isn't all threads with info, but I just compiled this list this morning for another guy...which will make the last line make more sense...... ..................... I'm not a fan of the NICO club forum because there's so many ads....but here's info from a post. Re: (srl311too) Post by dimedriver » Mon May 04, 2009 4:22 pm The pertronix only works with the single points dizzy. Ask the part guy for a 68 510 distributor and you can put that thing right in there. I think they are only $120 @kragen/oriely. You also need at leaste 3 ohms of resistance in your coil + ballast resistors. I have the 3ohm flame thrower coil and it still gets to hot so im adding a .8 ohm resistor. -Avery ................. ...best info I've found yet!!! I may put a link to this on my site. I'm only going to be looking at if it's possible to modify the pertronix to work on the dual point dizzy that all of the trucks had. https://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl ...more about the pertronix...by Hainz https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=2429 ....... http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Pertronix_Electronic_Ignition .... banzai510(hainz) banzai510(hainz)Veteran Senior Member 19.5k Posted June 28, 2009 Just keep your stock coil and ballast resisitor. No need for that coil. sve your money. However since you have a L20 distributor you have to remove that ring above the point lube. That means you have to strip the dizzy apart. have you done this bfore????????? As the kit is really for a Hitachi single point L16 distributor. Then its a drop in otherwise the L20b dizzy has to be modded. The Ring above the point lobe must be machine or the Magnet ring will not fit over the ring. .......... https://ratsun.net/topic/12966-pertronix-1741-ignitor-and-40000-volt-flamethrower-coil/ ........... That last thread had some good info in it. Most of the pertronix info is all moot since you're looking to put the matchbox in the truck.

factory manual may have more info....be the same for all of the torsion bar trucks. http://www.bluehandsvideo.com/manuals.html

markings toward rear

that's perfectly normal. If the seal was pulled out, the bearing would come out, too. There's no play when the assembly is installed on the spindle and the spindle nut is properly tighted.

glad to hear it's fixed.

If you still have the old drum, you could put it on as a check. If it clears, it may have been ground down already. End play on your axle could be an issue, but replacement parts should be close enough, tolerance-wise, that it should cause an issue. Hainz made some great suggestions, too!

If it sounds like metal on metal, you should be able to find shiny rub marks. The backing plate may be bent or warped, especially if it took a hammer or puller to get the drum off. you might measure the shoe width to make sure they're exactly the same width as the other side....especially if you got them from rockauto....they make have taken a return and sent it back out without checking them. First question to answer is exactly what is rubbing on what.

You can also "press" it out with bread and a wooden dowel.