chukar

I did some steam bending when I built a wooden boat. It will be easier to bend if you rip the piece into a bunch of thinner strips and than glue (or epoxy) the strips together while bending it over a form. The thinner strips of wood make it much easier to bend.

Check out Koyo radiators. They seem to get good reviews from folks on ratsun and 510 Realm. Not cheap but it's supposed to be a nice radiator.

I haven't seen a list but this website might be of use: http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/cleaning-threaded-holes Also I have read (but haven't found it to be super accurate) that the Nissan Engineering section used a part number format for bolts and other small hardware. Here is a link to the part format. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=NES_Part_Numbers Best of luck. Hopefully someone else has more information for you.

Wow! In my town too but also close to a lot of other Datsun enthusiasts. If it's still there on Monday when I don't have work I will check it out. Thanks for posting Carter.

I see a couple options available from 123ignition. I don't have any experience with them but I remember reading some negative reviews. Maybe they have fixed the issue? https://123ignitionusa.com/datsun/

Nice! I'll be curious on how the install goes. Do you follow Bluehandsvideo on Instagram? Mike is coming out with some modified control arms and coilovers too that are supposed to keep the track width close to spec.

There might be a couple of manufactures that make wheels like that but one of them is American Racing. Check out American Racing AR62 Outlaw II.

Found him! But I won't admit how long it took me.

Bringing back an old thread but I follow Mike on instagram (Bluehandsvideo) and he has been sharing videos of his ball joint conversion for the 521. There was a group buy on a Facebook Datsun page that Mike mentions in this thread but it looks like he may have a few extra to sell. There are a few people on Ratsun, like myself, that are not members of facebook so I wanted to mention it here too. Check out Mike's instagram for the latest updates.

Here is the video I was thinking of but he is removing the bearing (not the bearing race) from a 510 wagon axle. Probably not helpful. Sorry.

I believe Mike (Bluehands) has a video showing how to remove the race. I'll see if I can dig it up for you but basically he used a small cutoff wheel to cut the race diagonally and then a cold chisel. I used his approach and it worked great for me.

What type of paint did you end up going with? I'll be painting some parts soon and trust you judgement on a good value paint. I was in the Lynnwood shop the other day and was surprised how expensive the top of the line PPG paint was (women behind the counter told me $800 to $1000 per gallon). Sorry, I can't comment on the color match since I'm color blind to some colors.

Check out Tractor Supply's coal slag blasting abrasive. I've used it before and had good luck plus it is about $9 for a 50lb bag. There is a Tractor Supply in Arlington and Monroe.

Is it best to leave a small gap between the panels prior to welding? That way when you grind it smooth there would be more of the weld puddle remaining. In some of your photos it looks like there is a gap and others it looks like the panels are touching. I'm a novice welder and haven't done any work on body panels so I'm following your process. I know when I weld thicker material and plan on grinding it smooth material I will bevel the edges so more of the weld remains. Keep up the good work.

Do these calipers have a metal ring that goes around the dust seal? I rebuilt some 300zx calipers and they had it but I'm not sure if all calipers do.