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Taking a bath! (Warning, naked pics)


HRH

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Is the one or two women on here looking? Or is it just guys, you sick bastards! :D

 

Finally mounted the vise to my downstairs workbench. Got the control arms back from Master Blasters. Haven't painted them yet, working on getting the new bearings in, and seeing as they were blasted with old innards intact, took those all apart.

 

Just washed the stub axles in the sink, got all the sand off.

 

cleanstub.jpg

 

Typing slower with a finger I filleted with a razor blade while cleaning gasket stuff off the LSD prior to starting on the control arms. Nice new sharp razor blade too! Think I almost went to bone. Oh well, butterfly bandaid and some guaze later and we're good.

 

610510flange.jpg

 

Here's the height difference of the flanges for 610 (tall) vs. 510 (short.)

 

sandblastlca.jpg

 

Nice clean control arm waiting for some Rust Converter and primer/paint.

 

firecode.jpg

 

Just sprayed the stub axles with a liberal coating of WD40 and set them in front of my 220 v wall heater which is probably a relic of WW2 and most likely against fire code now. That sucker is HOT. I only turn it on when I'm home, for fear of fire. :eek:

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Rear control arms are interchangeable between the two, the axles must be different, or different differential. I never did pull those parts to find out. What happened was I grabbed a right rear arm off a 610 at Pull N Save to replace the bent original that came on the car. Had Joe replicate the strengthening plates on the regular 510 arm. There's a mystery thread in general on that. Have two sets now. The spares I'm rebuilding, and those on the car, which will then be rebuilt as rally spares.

 

The cut is nasty. About an 1/8" deep, in a 10 mm arc line next to the first knuckle. As long as I keep the finger fairly straight it doesn't separate and bleed all over. Have it bandaged with Neosporin now. The worst part is I was thinking, "this is stupid, I shouldn't be scraping the gasket towards my other hand with a fresh razor," right before it slipped and got me.:cool:

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As long as I keep the finger fairly straight it doesn't separate and bleed all over. Have it bandaged with Neosporin now. The worst part is I was thinking, "this is stupid, I shouldn't be scraping the gasket towards my other hand with a fresh razor," right before it slipped and got me.:cool:

:lol: at least you were thinking...

crazy glue keeps it closed.

 

 

so 610 = massive, 510 = weaksauce ? :D

 

intresting approach. may make CV conversion an easier(or harder :eek: ) swap.

 

 

 

weak sauce!... never heard anyone else say that.

we tease a guy here that its a band name (which is a good one :fu: )

usually refering to bad beer/cheap alcohol :lol: :lol: :lol:

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i can verify that 610 halfshafts are different im not sure about length not but i know for a fact the way they go into the diff is different

newdiff1.jpg

the 610 has a male splind end that is attatched directly to the u joint insted of like the 510 where its a flange and the male end is seperate

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i can verify that 610 halfshafts are different im not sure about length not but i know for a fact the way they go into the diff is different

newdiff1.jpg

the 610 has a male splind end that is attatched directly to the u joint insted of like the 510 where its a flange and the male end is seperate

 

THANKS! now i know the source of the rear end i have :D

now if i could find a set of 610 R arms to go with it. :cool:

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Or just get some 510 arms and reinforce them. I seem to remember the Hollander interchange as being 68-73 510, and 73-76 610. Oh, and here are some pictures of the finger. Doesn't look that bad now, but it was bleeding like a stuck pig.

 

The dotted line is about how far back. Good thing the blade was sharp, it's healing nicely.

 

finger.jpg

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put 2 eyes on the cut! : ) :P

 

Rear control arms are interchangeable between the two, the axles must be different, or different differential. I never did pull those parts to find out.

 

i can verify that 610 halfshafts are different im not sure about length not but i know for a fact the way they go into the diff is different.

the 610 has a male splind end that is attatched directly to the u joint insted of like the 510 where its a flange and the male end is seperate

 

i wonder if the diff yoke is the reason for the flange being thicker???

ill have to take a real close look at what i have. no clue as to the donor.

 

i thought the 1/2 shafts were the same length???

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