Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Ok my issue is with my 72 510 wagon & the electric choke. Today the car would'nt start [again] so i pulled the plugs & they appear to be wet w/ gas. I then noticed that the carb butterfly was all the way closed so i adjusted it till it was open slightly,,tried a few times w/ no luck she would'nt start. I then tested to see if i had power at the choke cable that goes to the electric choke & nothing, the test light wouldnt light up. I was talking w/ a mechanic friend & he said the " choke heater relay" may have gone bad. Im anticipating this part being hard to find & i need the car back on the road by tomorrow. My ? is this........ Is there a way to hook up a cable to "manually" open the choke? If so has anybody else done this & do you have pics of the setup? I seem to remember Hainz saying he has done this before. There also may be carb issues [wet plugs] ill have to deal with but with a new set of plugs & an operating choke im sure she'll fire up. Thanks.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) I would be interested to know this too. I always use Manual chokes because I hate leaving the fate of my engine starting on a cold morning to some electronic thingy. :D I HOPE YOU GET IT FIXED SOON. Edited February 18, 2009 by Phlebmaster Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Ok i found a universal choke cable @ Kragen for $10. Gonna see if i can get it changed over tomorrow. Also picked up some NGK plugs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 It's possible that you won't have power to the choke heater if the motor isn't running. Even back to '73 the choke relay on the 620 had to have alternator output in order for the choke heater to be on. Most likely the 510 would be similar. The failure of the choke heater won't prevent the choke from working. It will prevent the choke from turning off though. It may have been set too rich. Also if an engine floods, hold the throttle to the floor and crank untill it dries enough to start. If the carb choke unloader linkage is adjusted properly, full throttle will pull the choke open slightly. Try it on a closed choke.... full throttle will open it. Quote Link to comment
dayton100 Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) this happened to me one day (late 72 sedan all stock)the electric choke was stuck closed but i had a alt/charg light on too. it wouldnt start/idle. anyhow if you look at the diagram it's wired through the voltage regulator. so i pulled the volt regulator tested it for continuity none so i put in a brand new one that i had here and viola, ignition light gone and choke worked like it was supposed to. started right up, idled normal been fine ever since.... dont know if its same as your issue but i thought i'd share diagram http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&cat= Edited February 18, 2009 by dayton100 Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Dayton TY. My charge light also did come on a few days before this issue & in fact last thursday the car died & i had to be towed home. At that time the battery was dead..i also installed a new alt thinking that was the culprit. Ill test the VR today & go from there. Quote Link to comment
Papi Chulo Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 I was having this problem with my choke when I got my car. I purchased a relay, $5, from an electrical parts store. It worked perfectly for a couple weeks but I recently started blowing fuses. :( I haven't found a solution. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Ok i put some NEW NGK plugs, turned the key & pumped the gas pedal once & the butterfly was all the way closed. I propped it open a tad & she fired right up. I then tested to see if i had power at the choke cable [back of the carb] & i did. This tells me that the choke relay is good. Ill have to adjust the choke again too. Another issue i have is the plugs getting fouled [soaked with gas]. Its either the carb running rich or even possibly a weak coil not giving the plugs a hot enough spark from what ive been told. This is the 2nd time ive replaced the plugs in 6 months. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) The choke is supposed to be 100% closed when the engine is cold and unstarted, summer or winter -- so that was not a problem. As soon as the engine starts, the "choke pull-off" diaphragm is supposed to pull it open a bit (less than 1/8" open) and then the choke heater gradually opens it all the way. If the engine starts but this doesn't open, then it runs really badly and may even die. At that point the plugs may be wet-fouled and it won't start again. Bad heater won't cause it to fail to start. But will cause problems after it starts. Edited February 19, 2009 by ggzilla Quote Link to comment
dayton100 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 this happened to me one day (late 72 sedan all stock)the electric choke was stuck closed but i had a alt/charg light on too. it wouldnt start/idle. anyhow if you look at the diagram it's wired through the voltage regulator. so i pulled the volt regulator tested it for continuity none so i put in a brand new one that i had here and viola, ignition light gone and choke worked like it was supposed to. started right up, idled normal been fine ever since.... dont know if its same as your issue but i thought i'd share diagram http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&cat= whether it matters i forgot to add that my carb is the 32/34 dft stock air cleaner with adaptor. when mine did this and the ignition light was present, it wouldn't let me open the butterflys by hand either like it was forcing them shut like a deadbolt had a lock on em. it would turn over and sputter and sputter. wierd when you added that you had a ignition light it really made me think since they voltage regulator and the electric choke relay are next to one another and in the same circut by the diagram. anyway my fix was the bad V/R hope you figure it out soon Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Dayton TY ..yeah day 2 now & she fired up just fine altough it didnt go to an immediate high idle like it did before. Instead i had to keep my foot on the gas for a minute or so. After work [she sat for 7 hours in 70 degree weather] it went to the high idle at 1st the after tapping the pedal [after a few minutes] idle went to normal. I need to find a spark tester to determine how much voltage the coil is putting out & at the same time a carb adjustment may be in order [running rich]. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720%20stuff/carbmodifiedchokeadjustable2Large.jpg[/img]"] Spark isn't a problem. Over rich from too much choke is. Your carb has one of these. (or similar) Next time the motor is cold, depress the throttle a few times to set the choke on. Loosen the three screws and twist the black thing back and forth. You'll notice that the choke plate also opens and closes. Adjust so the choke plate just closes fully. Snug the screws so you can turn it later if you want to fine tune it richer or leaner. Get some carb spray and wet all the throttle and choke linkages and work them by hand to loosen and lube them. Hold the throttle partly open to release the interlock so the choke plate is free to move. Some of these linkages have to be free to fall by their own weight so it doesn't take much dirt os crap to make then stick in one position. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720%20stuff/carbZ24fastidleadjustLg.jpg[/img]"] The plastic thing at the top center is your fast idle cam and has little steps on it. When you pump the throttle the choke sets on and the linkage allows the cam to drop into position. When the throttle is released the set screw (below it) sits on one of the steps and holds the throttle open for fast idle. As the choke heater warms and the choke opens, the fast idle cam will move to a lower step and finally all the way off so the engine can idle at it's normal warm position. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 glad you found a solution my choke never worked right some days it worked other days it didnt im throwing a weber on it this time :P glad there is a solution to the issue arent carbs great:lol: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I would try opening the choke a little more then locking it down and try untill it gets better.If it gets better. Also mabe the float is just a little high were it Really rich during the choke opening and flooding out the spark plugs. When running the fuel is being used up just enough to keep from flooding out. I had a stock Hitachi and adjusted the choke and never was right after that. I put a Weber DGV 5A on there(manual) Quote Link to comment
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