510er Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 you are going to notch a frame using JB weld? GO FOR IT IDIOT!:lol::lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 ....before i started cutting, bed just sitting on the frame, wheels rubbing... And here is the driver side that i was able to get off all in one piece :D It didn't 'tuck' at all. You've trimmed the body sheet metal to make it 'tuck'. BTW there's a reason for that lip of turned in metal.... it ads rigidity and strength to the body panel and prevents bending. True, that contour line just above it will help but don't push in on it. I admit I kind of like those rims on that truck but the body is too close for me. Hard cornering plus a bump and the wheels will get ripped, rims scuffed. Some of the 510 guys 'roll' the wheel arch using a baseball bat.. At least that's how I understood it. Takes a bit of time but you pry gently against the tire and slowly bend, stretch and re-form the fender away from the wheel for added clearance. It takes time and patience and a lot of careful checking. Might not work on a 620, I don't know and you would have to do some research on it. If done right, the results aren't too noticeable and the tire has extra clearance. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Also depending on the gap (1/4" or so), those sharp edges are gonna eat your wheels in any kind of cornering. You should look around for a 77 or earlier rear. It's a narrower axle and will give you a bit more gap at the wheel well. And JB Weld? I seriously hope you were being sarcastic :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 It's the name of his buddy's welding shop. JB's Welding Shop.:lol: Quote Link to comment
oldsklminitrk Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I like it looks good to me closer to the ground....you get my thumbs up :) Quote Link to comment
ImInked Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) Some of the 510 guys 'roll' the wheel arch using a baseball bat.. At least that's how I understood it. Takes a bit of time but you pry gently against the tire and slowly bend, stretch and re-form the fender away from the wheel for added clearance. It takes time and patience and a lot of careful checking. Might not work on a 620, I don't know and you would have to do some research on it. If done right, the results aren't too noticeable and the tire has extra clearance. It works with the 620's as well. i did it to my 620 back in high school and that was in 1981. Also i had mine mono leafed back then too, drove it for 5 years with no issues. but again it was on the frame and the ride sucks. ahhhhhh the price to look cool! haha i agree, photoshopping it would've been a hell of a lot easier than cutting and grinding. Edited January 15, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I think it looked better before. Why not get narrower wheels? well these fit and i LOVE the look of them, i would rather spend 2 hours working on the truck (win win :D) then pay money for new wheels and tires again. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) ....before i started cutting' date=' bed just sitting on the frame, wheels rubbing... And here is the driver side that i was able to get off all in one piece :D It didn't 'tuck' at all. You've trimmed the body sheet metal to make it 'tuck'. BTW there's a reason for that lip of turned in metal.... it ads rigidity and strength to the body panel and prevents bending. True, that contour line just above it will help but don't push in on it. I admit I kind of like those rims on that truck but the body is too close for me. Hard cornering plus a bump and the wheels will get ripped, rims scuffed. Some of the 510 guys 'roll' the wheel arch using a baseball bat.. At least that's how I understood it. Takes a bit of time but you pry gently against the tire and slowly bend, stretch and re-form the fender away from the wheel for added clearance. It takes time and patience and a lot of careful checking. Might not work on a 620, I don't know and you would have to do some research on it. If done right, the results aren't too noticeable and the tire has extra clearance.[/quote'] i have SEEN that done before, but never tried it. i "rolled" the pass side with a pair of pliers and it looked like ass, thats why i was only able to cut the driver side off in one piece. I have more plans for the bed, so that part of the structure is not important to me right now. just have to make it all fit right now :) Edited January 15, 2009 by dwnshfter Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 you are going to notch a frame using JB weld? GO FOR IT IDIOT!:lol::lol: was kidding.... Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 2eDeYe;120389']Also depending on the gap (1/4" or so)' date=' those sharp edges are gonna eat your wheels in any kind of cornering. You should look around for a 77 or earlier rear. It's a narrower axle and will give you a bit more gap at the wheel well. And JB Weld? I seriously hope you were being sarcastic :rolleyes:[/quote'] how much narrower? that might be a good idea actually..... I will have to start looking around for another 620 at the JY to pull one from. thanks redeye! Quote Link to comment
ImInked Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 i didnt know you could "roll" a pair of pliers. no wonder it looked like ass. when you roll the fender, try something thats actually round. Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Measure yours from hub to hub inside and outside if you can. I'll measure my 77 this weekend and post up the numbers. Quote Link to comment
510er Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 i didnt know you could "roll" a pair of pliers. no wonder it looked like ass. when you roll the fender, try something thats actually round. I second ^^^ when you "roll" with pliers you are just bending the shit out of it making creases and ass marks its pretty easy using a pipe, just have someone drive forward and back real slow while you hold the pipe Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I use a hammer and dolly and flatten the lip. You just have to go slow. When done that way it's strong, won't cut your tires and retains the stock body lines (no flaring with a bat needed). Quote Link to comment
ImInked Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 2eDeYe;120456'']I use a hammer and dolly and flatten the lip. You just have to go slow. When done that way it's strong, won't cut your tires and retains the stock body lines (no flaring with a bat needed). a hammer and dolly would've been better, but we were dumb kids and the baseball bat was the first thing we saw that we thought would work. and yes, it is way stronger. Quote Link to comment
tdaaj Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 way to try and steel my color scheme! :( because he couldn't be original to save his life. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 because he couldn't be original to save his life. well i already started the black roof, and so the logical choice for the bottom half is....well...black. :fu: Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I second ^^^ when you "roll" with pliers you are just bending the shit out of it making creases and ass marks its pretty easy using a pipe, just have someone drive forward and back real slow while you hold the pipe Yeah, figured that out pretty quick, lol. I was going to ask how to properly do it on here, but thought I would catch shit for it so i just finished it up the only way i knew how. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 how much narrower? that might be a good idea actually..... I will have to start looking around for another 620 at the JY to pull one from. thanks redeye! 2.250" narrower. Bolts right in, might want to keep your 4.11 gears though, the earlier rear will have 4.375 gears. You may not have enough clearance between your leaf springs and wheels though. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 2eDeYe;120456'']I use a hammer and dolly and flatten the lip. You just have to go slow. When done that way it's strong, won't cut your tires and retains the stock body lines (no flaring with a bat needed). That's how I did mine also, had to make a few relief cuts in it, but only took me about 15 minutes per side and much stronger. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 well it's too late now, so..... anyway, think i will just keep the stock rear end, it tucks. time to start relocating the fuel cell (form the storage to the truck) and running the lines :) Quote Link to comment
sanitys Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 That's how I did mine also, had to make a few relief cuts in it, but only took me about 15 minutes per side and much stronger. why not just just use the tool designed for it? Videos of how-to's are all over the net. Buy it and resell for like 10 bucks less, or charge your mates 50 bucks to roll their fenders. Thats what most people do... Oh you will need a heat gun as well if you dont want to crack the paint... End result if done correctly is perfect roll, with no damage to paint/dents http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=6159&keyword=31158 Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) why not just just use the tool designed for it? Videos of how-to's are all over the net. Buy it and resell for like 10 bucks less, or charge your mates 50 bucks to roll their fenders. Thats what most people do... Oh you will need a heat gun as well if you dont want to crack the paint... End result if done correctly is perfect roll, with no damage to paint/dents http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=6159&keyword=31158 that fender roller is awesome when i lived in hawaii my friends shop bought one. As anyone who has lived there recently knows VIP Styling and Drifting is huge there we rolled a ton of our friends cars in the first couple weeks they work awesome and don't F up your car.. As for cutting the bed lip if you are going to bag your truck i would source another bed and a narrower axle.. the amount of abuse that is inflicted on body panels if you plan on really playing with your switches our dragging will completly destroy any bed if it is not properly supported (i.e. see saw side too side) let alone one that you take crucial flex support out of.. Once you bag something you have to cut the bed up quite a bit anyway and unles you reinforce (like beebani's or body dropped beds where you retain the whole floor)it it will be toast in no time.. I really hope you don't do this much of a hack job on the bag setup. that is the last thing the mini trucking community needs is more hack jobs for people to point at and explain why the vehicles are unsafe.. instead of rushing things take your time you already said you don't drive it so why F up the back end and make it more difficult too move around while you are working on it. just my .02.. you can go about this much smarter then maybe you wouldn't get so much shit... Edited January 16, 2009 by RB_Shaggs Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 some one take his truck from him be for he hurts him self or some one. dwshiifter have you ever bottom out your 620's shocks? i have i was on the free way hit a pot hole at 70 and it threw the whole truck in to another lane and i only had 3 inch blocks and 2 leaves removed and the torshins cranked. don't drive it like that. wait till you 4 link it trust me. i have other horror stories of a mono leafed 720 and a 86 mono leafed hard body. mono leaf + 4 LINK GOOD MONOLEAF WITH AXL RAP = BAD. THE ONLY WAY TO NOTCH IT IS WITH A WELDER Quote Link to comment
gpcdatsun Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I had something else to say, but I guess it wasn't approved. So, I will say that it doesn't make any sense. I can see you want to do something, but sometimes it's best not to. With all due respect, put them back so we can all feel safe to drive again. (que in JAWS music) Quote Link to comment
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