Need some input regarding the 720 4x4

[HRH]

Okay, so for the future project since I'm going to be keeping the 720 I picked up:

 

It's an 81 720 4x4 KC with the z20s at current. Body has many rust holes while looking decent.

 

My original thought was finding a Arizona or rust free 620 KC to put on the 720 frame. However, I'm almost finding I like the 720 better. I know this is blasphemy. I've always loved the classic 620 looks, but the room in the 720 kc seems oh so much more, and with nice rims, they just have a bad-ass 80s look to them.

 

Anyway, my questions are:

 

1. Will a 620 KC be a direct body swap onto an '81 4x4 frame?

2. Does the 620 KC have more or less room than a 720 KC?

3. Which do you think will be easier to find without rust? 620/720 (I'm split on this one seeing as the 720s seemed to have bigger rust problems)

4. And lastly, what do you guys think about a turbo L28 on an 81 4x4 frame, with independent rear suspension? :) I was getting a little crazy and wondering how fun that would be.

 

I think a solid axle front swap would be a little more practical, but let's just say I didn't want to keep it as a snow/part time wheeling rig. Let's say I wanted to jump (literally) onto the freeway on-ramp and keep going? :D How hard do you think that would be?

[510er]

it would be easier to run long travel coilovers all the way around pre runner style in the rear and rock crawler style in the front.

[Ketshy]

1. I can't guarantee it but from the measurements I've done yes.

2. Sorry I have no idea

3. I'd say a 720 because they are just more common (at least in my area)

4. Sounds awesome, but you're going to have a hell of a time fitting something that long. It would probably be a lot easier to swap in a VG30 of some sort (DETT would be fun...) ONLY because if you're doing custom IRS you might as well customize the front too. From the time I've spent under my truck I'd say there is a lot of room for much longer arms under there if you center the diff. Theres no way a VG30DE will fit in a stock bay though, too wide.

 

It's fun to dream about but for practicalities sake I'd do a SAS, I even have some brand new 3" lift toyota springs I would sell you and maybe various other parts I collected before I bought my 300. :D

 

Oh and I agree about 720s, great 80's truck. I love mine.

[datsunaholic]

720s have more room. Almost twice as much room behind the seat in the cab. They also have more rust issues in the bed except the last 2 years (85-86) when they got rid of the bed seam that trapped water. Cab rust was similar; I've seen some with no rust and some with no floors in both.

Edited January 14, 2009 by datsunaholic

[]2eDeYe]

Datzenmike's 620 is on a 720 frame.

 

I would pick up a set of wagoneer axles to use so you have a lot of gearing options. In fact, what I would do is pick up and entire wagoneer, use the front springs and axles and part out the rest to recover some $.

[datzenmike]

.... Anyway, my questions are:

 

1. Will a 620 KC be a direct body swap onto an '81 4x4 frame?

2. Does the 620 KC have more or less room than a 720 KC?

3. Which do you think will be easier to find without rust? 620/720 (I'm split on this one seeing as the 720s seemed to have bigger rust problems)

4. And lastly, what do you guys think about a turbo L28 on an 81 4x4 frame, with independent rear suspension? :) I was getting a little crazy and wondering how fun that would be.

 

I think a solid axle front swap would be a little more practical, but let's just say I didn't want to keep it as a snow/part time wheeling rig. Let's say I wanted to jump (literally) onto the freeway on-ramp and keep going? :D How hard do you think that would be?

 

1/ regular cab to regular cab, long box to long box, and KC to KC will work best. You can swap a KC onto a long box frame if you cut the front two box mounts off the frame and weld back on about 8" further back. This is what I did, '78 KC onto '82 long box frame. I forget the exact amount to move back.

 

2/ 720 is wider and longer in the cab.

 

3/ 620s look nicer but 720 are newer with better options and comforts. Way better elecrical and thought out controls. Pulse wipers/ power steering/tilt steering/ more gauges/electric windows/locking steering/ bigger motor... more. The 720 was the last built fully Datsun truck made.

 

4/ do-able but better choices out there with more power/ lighter/ better fuel economy/ newer technology FI/ way easier.

[HRH]

Wow, I'm thoroughly amazed at the amount of realism on this board. I was waiting for the "Hell-yeah! Do it!" response from someone. :D

 

But as far as electrical Mike, I've found the 720s are the absolute worse for electrical problems due to age. I agree the controls are more well thought out, and pulse wipers are REALLY nice, but I'm already considering running a separate fusebox due to ignition maybe intermittently weakening, and the dash/guage lights do ocassionally just turn off, and the high beams will just randomly turn on, if I jiggle the switch they go back. I suppose I should change out the column switch, but you know, $500 truck and all. Hehe.

[hang_510]

...randomly turn on, if I jiggle the switch they go back. I suppose I should change out the column switch, but you know, $500 truck and all. Hehe.

 

old age??? douche the box and clean ALL the contacts first! probably will solve 95% of the issues...a full tank will solve the other 5% :lol:

[Ketshy]

But as far as electrical Mike, I've found the 720s are the absolute worse for electrical problems due to age.

 

I don't know if it's due to age and I can't compare between the 720 and other models but I have to agree. They were on crack when they came up with some of the ideas for wiring these trucks, I had countless problems with sensors, headlights, and pretty much everything else. However the components were all just fine and I'm still using them all, it was just the wiring connecting it all.

[datsunaholic]

Of all the issues I had with my 720, electrical wasn't one of them. The only thing that didn't work was the passenger side clearance light and that was because it had been hit there severing the wires. The heater fan blew hard and worked on all settings, the multi-speed delay wipers worked great, the dim-out style cab light never failed (I have owned a total of 1 620 with a working cab light, out of around 10 or so), and never had a fuse blow. The electrics outlasted the engine (which ate a valve at around 250,000 miles).

 

With 620s I've never owned a '72-74 that didn't have serious wiring issues, even ones that were unaltered. I've never owned one that had a working underhood lamp, most the cig lighter doesn't work, and only the KC had a working cab light (and then the door switch was intermittent). The heater fans only worked on High most of the time, the dash lights are usually so dim you can't see 'em in a blackened cave, and the headlights blink with the turn signals (more due to the puny 35A stock Alternator and undersized wires). I love my 620s, but electrically they are only better than British-built cars. I've never had that kind of wiring problems with any other Datsun.

[datzenmike]

... I love my 620s, but electrically they are only better than British-built cars....

 

LUCAS "Prince Of Darkness"

 

[Jester]

I have been watching for a while on ebay and craigs list for a NICE 720. I WANT an '86 KC 4X4. I either find one that is going for more than I can afford or its just a pile of crap.

 

How about some pictures?

[Bandit240]

Sorry, but i cant resist this.

 

Everything works right on my '78 except for the low blower speed.

[datzenmike]

The dropping resistor is burnt out, broken or the wire is loose. It's on the heater box above the gas pedal and looks like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/electrical620heatertwospeedcoil.jpg[/img]"]

[Bandit240]

I will have to check into that.

[Jester]

Curious as the drop it provides. Maybe a person could go to Radio Shack, or the like, and get a resistor. I have tried to find one in my local yard with no luck. Pulled the one out of my Hustler and broke it. :mad:

[510er]

Sorry, but i cant resist this.

 

Everything works right on my '78 except for the low blower speed.

 

Do you need a cowl vent cover thing? the thing that goes between the windshield and the hood?

[Bandit240]

Ive got 4-5 of them. I just have it taken off wile im working on the truck.

[moparvwfreak]

Sorry, but i cant resist this.

 

Everything works right on my '78 except for the low blower speed.

 

on my 73, the only thing that doesn't work is the reverse lights. :D but i have fixed ALOT of stuff on it since i got it.

[Bandit240]

Everything worked on the truck when i got it, except that low blower speed. There were a few burnt out bulbs, but i put new bulbs in everything on it. Even the old Sears AM radio with the speaker built in worked.