ok ka guys little help here

[jesusno2]

Putting the ka24e in my goon well got it in bolted my trans up to help keep the motor centered. Well wtf is up with the 240 mounts I read these were supposed to work with the 510 rubbers mine are at way wrong angles and just goofy. I can build new mounts for It, but thought these were supposed to work figured it would save me a lot of time.guess not, or am I completley missing something here

[bonvo]

do you have pics?

[Rusty]

or am I completley missing something here

 

 

BEEBANI:eek::lol::lol::lol:

[fiveNdime]

I know that when I put mine in I had to twist the motor to the side to get the mounts to line up. Then the motor went back to center. It's not much but enough to make you pull your hair out.

[agentalpha]

Do you have the right cross member,

ie, flipped and re-welded?

 

Also, you only use the bottom two holes on the cross member,

and top two on the isolators.

 

Inline4's went right in.

*edit*

Sorry, I just notice you are using a single cam. My bad.

Edited January 12, 2009 by agentalpha

[Icehouse]

I forgot to add on this, it might not be a bad idea to build some mounts because the single cams are like a mile off the fireway leaving very little room for a fan and such.. Just an idea :D

[jesusno2]

Well that's what I'm running into I built a trans x member for the L20 5speed combo I reused my trans x member and I sets the motor back a fair amount their is about 2 inches between the core support and the front pulley.

[jesusno2]

Here is a picture of the pulley/core support

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v633/jesusno2/?action=view&current=utf-8BY2xlYXJhY2UgZm9yIHJhZC5qcGc.jpg

[Guest DatsuNoob]

hmmm, so I see you're using serp belt, are you running all the accesories, tensioners, etc?, or are you using a belt from another vehicle to eliminate them? I'm not sure which pulley/belt combo to run on my KA/de swap so I can run only the alt, h20 pump, and crank.

[jesusno2]

Just the alternater is all that will be spinning off the engine I got some parts for the motor mounts punched out at work today so later this eve ill start figuring out angles

[agentalpha]

I know that on the twin cam, you use a *early* 720 alt. bracket and L series alt tensioner, and it moves the alt forward, so so it lines up with the water pump.

 

The thermostat housing must be modded, so the belt doesn't hit it.

 

Dunno about the single cam.

[jesusno2]

I'm just going to use the ka alt its a much better alternater anyways

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I know that on the twin cam, you use a *early* 720 alt. bracket and L series alt tensioner, and it moves the alt forward, so so it lines up with the water pump.

 

The thermostat housing must be modded, so the belt doesn't hit it.

 

Dunno about the single cam.

 

Yeah, Zuum510 and I were talking about using L series pulleys. I'll have to look into that. Good to hear a bit of confirmation, thanks.

[inline4]

Yeah, Zuum510 and I were talking about using L series pulleys. I'll have to look into that. Good to hear a bit of confirmation, thanks.

 

[Duke]

If you use the single cam KA thermostat housing it will clear the belt routing that you guys are running. I just put one on my KA for that very reason.

Edited January 13, 2009 by Duke

[Icehouse]

Inline4 you should do a writeup on the single belt swap so later when I want to do it I can find the info :D With pics :D

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Inline4 you should do a writeup on the single belt swap so later when I want to do it I can find the info :D With pics :D

 

Yeah, I agree, please do. I'm getting ready to do that real soon. It would be very helpful. Thanks. I'm wondering since you guys are using car motors and I'll be using a dual cam truck motor, how the timing marks will work out. Between the two, the timing needles are on opposite sides, and the markings on the back side of the crank pulleys (v-belt vs serp) are different. I'm sure I'll figure out something when I get ready to cross that bridge. Thanks for the picture.

Edited January 13, 2009 by DatsuNoob

[fiveNdime]

Dont know if anyone has done it the way I did it but I used all the KA pulleys and brackets but used my L series alt. for my dual scam swap. I just swapped out the pulleys so the L series has the serpentine now......easier then all this other crap you have to do IMO.

 

Also you dont have to wire anything up....stays stock and works great.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Yeah, that's a good plan. I love keeping things simple.Only reason I was thinking L series pulleys, is because vbelts are everywhere, they're cheap, and can be found in almost any length. Not so sure about serps though. Do you happen to know what vehicle's belt you're running on that particular setup? Maybe a part #? That's pretty much exactly what I want.

[Duke]

Dont know if anyone has done it the way I did it but I used all the KA pulleys and brackets but used my L series alt. for my dual scam swap. I just swapped out the pulleys so the L series has the serpentine now......easier then all this other crap you have to do IMO.

 

Also you dont have to wire anything up....stays stock and works great.

 

I was going to do this but the pulley shaft on the L-series alt that I had was smaller than the serpentine one. Plus, it's not hard to wire in the KA alternator. I got rid of the charge warning light circut and its now just a one wire alt.

[fiveNdime]

Have fun when your alt craps out and you didn't have a warning light to let you know before hand. I know its not hard to wire in the alt, but its also not hard to plug in the old one. I don't know what alt you used but the stock KA alt. had the same size diameter shaft. As for the serp. belt, you can actually just go to the parts store and ask for the specific length. The packaging should tell you the length. I used a piece of wire and wrapped it around the pulleys to get a length then took it down to the store to get the exact belt.....worked perfectly.

[Icehouse]

I was going to do this but the pulley shaft on the L-series alt that I had was smaller than the serpentine one. Plus, it's not hard to wire in the KA alternator. I got rid of the charge warning light circut and its now just a one wire alt.

 

 

How did you do it Duke? I thought the alternator had to have the sense wire and the field wire?? I always just hook them back up to the factory light. We also use the KA alternators on the L series, they bolt on and if you have a pile of alts you can usually find a pulley that fits :D

[Duke]

Have fun when your alt craps out and you didn't have a warning light to let you know before hand. I know its not hard to wire in the alt, but its also not hard to plug in the old one. I don't know what alt you used but the stock KA alt. had the same size diameter shaft.

 

I'm not to worried about the idiot light. Thats what they made voltage gauges for! As for the L-series alternator, I'm pretty sure it was just a standard 510 one, but I'm not really sure. I got it off a friend when my old one crapped out.

 

How did you do it Duke? I thought the alternator had to have the sense wire and the field wire?? I always just hook them back up to the factory light. We also use the KA alternators on the L series, they bolt on and if you have a pile of alts you can usually find a pulley that fits :D

 

From what I understand (I'm no electrical guru, so please correct me if I'm wrong) the charge comes from the wire on the stud on the back on the alternator, and the sense and field wires are just for the idiot light. Again, I could very well be wrong, so please correct me if I am.

[]2eDeYe]

It won't charge without 12v to the sense or field. Can never remember which off the top of my head, but one of them tells the alt that the ignition is on and it's time to work. The other is for your light. The lug is for power out to battery.

[Duke]

Its the sense wire...:o...like I said, I'm no electrical guru.