Socalman Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 Does anyone have a write up on installing a starter relay for a little boost? I am getting some clicking on starts sometimes, connections are clean and battery fully charged. I want to try this before just buying a gear reduction starter but at $70 by the time you add shipping and tax, seems steep and already have a few relays laying around….thanks Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 (edited) I HIGHLY doubt a relay will fix your issue. In essence the solenoid on the starter is just a high amperage relay. Have you put a meter on the small wire going to the solenoid spade lug and looked at what voltage you were getting there when you tried to turn it over? If you are dead set on putting a relay in , it is very simple as the existing wire coming from the ignition can act as the activator for the relay, then run a decent size wire to the main positive of the battery for the switched power. However I am willing to bet your voltage from the ignition is low or more likely bad grounding of the starter/engine to the battery. I have fixed many, many starters (and misc other electrical gremlins) by repairing/adding grounds to the head from the main negative battery terminal. Edited August 14 by Logical1 spelling Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 Use caution but get a push button remote starter switch and connect to 12v positive and to the starter solenoid. This eliminates the stock wiring and ignition switch. Try multiple starts and observe... It starts every time and never clicks or chatters..... Starter is fine the start signal from the switch is at fault. Probably 5-8 volts and not enough to operate the stock solenoid on the starter. What you need is a 'hot start relay' which basically uses the weak start signal to power a relay that sends a strong 12v signal to the starter solenoid... It still clicks, chatters or misses.................................. the starter solenoid is no good. If you have a spare solenoid or old starter swap the solenoid. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 54 minutes ago, Socalman said: Does anyone have a write up on installing a starter relay for a little boost? I am getting some clicking on starts sometimes, connections are clean and battery fully charged. I want to try this before just buying a gear reduction starter but at $70 by the time you add shipping and tax, seems steep and already have a few relays laying around….thanks Google Ford starter relay wiring diagram. There are a couple different ways, but the simplest is below. Note that you will have to jump the batt lug on the starter to the solenoid terminal with a short wire. I think I showed you this a few weeks ago in another thread. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 (edited) this fixed my 521 but I used a Ford relay I had laying around but used as a relay not as a starter as photoed Edited August 14 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 While they work, they are a little over kill when a simple small relay will be more than enough to power the starter solenoid. 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted August 14 Author Report Share Posted August 14 13 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Use caution but get a push button remote starter switch and connect to 12v positive and to the starter solenoid. This eliminates the stock wiring and ignition switch. Try multiple starts and observe... It starts every time and never clicks or chatters..... Starter is fine the start signal from the switch is at fault. Probably 5-8 volts and not enough to operate the stock solenoid on the starter. What you need is a 'hot start relay' which basically uses the weak start signal to power a relay that sends a strong 12v signal to the starter solenoid... It still clicks, chatters or misses.................................. the starter solenoid is no good. If you have a spare solenoid or old starter swap the solenoid. This is what I was looking for thanks… 5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Google Ford starter relay wiring diagram. There are a couple different ways, but the simplest is below. Note that you will have to jump the batt lug on the starter to the solenoid terminal with a short wire. I think I showed you this a few weeks ago in another thread. This is nice, but I am going to start with parts I already have. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 It's a $20 dollar relay. 3 minutes ago, Socalman said: This is nice, but I am going to start with parts I already have. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 7 minutes ago, datzenmike said: While they work, they are a little over kill when a simple small relay will be more than enough to power the starter solenoid. I like them because they use full battery power in and out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 And cheap or readily available. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 (edited) I would use a black box type in future as its a cleaner look. I just happen to have this laying around. looks horrible. But on a nice 510 yes use a blackbox and hide it under soemthing to not look look shit and ruin the value of the car Edited August 14 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 A simple Bosch 30A relay like in Mike's diagram will work perfect. I put one on my wife's 521 15+yrs ago and it's never had any hiccups at all. The old switches and connections can be resistive enough to cause the problem you're having. The started solenoid is just a big relay, as mentioned, but it actually takes a fair amount of juice to be fully activated. The Bosch relay barely takes anything and will certainly send a nice amount to the starter. I know Mike's diagram shows the trigger voltage coming from the ignition switch, but keep in mind, you can just use the trigger wire that's connected to the starter solenoid. It may not matter in your situation, but for others reading this, it will keep any of the other safety switches in the circuit....such as neutral safety and clutch safety. 2 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted September 6 Author Report Share Posted September 6 for anyone wondering, installing a 35 amp relay module to the starter made a world of difference.....highly recommend 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 what way you hooked it up? Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted September 6 Author Report Share Posted September 6 2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: what way you hooked it up? the simple way like Mike described but I went with a little fancier fused dual relay module and used the second leg to my headlights... 3 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 putting the relay in the headlight circuit is a great upgrade.....pretty much a MUST DO in my book. My wife's 521 melted several fuses before I did it to hers. Where did you get that module? 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 I like that module!!!!!!!!! where you get? 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted September 7 Author Report Share Posted September 7 6 hours ago, mklotz70 said: putting the relay in the headlight circuit is a great upgrade.....pretty much a MUST DO in my book. My wife's 521 melted several fuses before I did it to hers. Where did you get that module? 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I like that module!!!!!!!!! where you get? It’s made by leash electronics. They also have a few nice fuse blocks I am thinking about maybe upgrading the stock… 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 2 hours ago, Socalman said: It’s made by leash electronics. Does it come with a cover? Are the relays removable? 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted September 7 Author Report Share Posted September 7 4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Does it come with a cover? Are the relays removable? No, it doesn’t Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 They've got some nice stuff. Thanks! Maybe a cover could be designed and 3D printed? 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 https://www.leashelectronics.com/products/dual-35-amp-relay-module 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 On 9/8/2024 at 12:44 AM, mklotz70 said: They've got some nice stuff. Thanks! Maybe a cover could be designed and 3D printed? If you have a vintage British car, you can buy a dummy voltage regulator with J case fuses. The covers for the Lucas regulator looks very close to the shape and size of the Leash module. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: If you have a vintage British car, you can buy a dummy voltage regulator with J case fuses. The covers for the Lucas regulator looks very close to the shape and size of the Leash module. Leave it to the British to make a cover that ugly. 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 On 9/6/2024 at 2:25 PM, Socalman said: the simple way like Mike described but I went with a little fancier fused dual relay module and used the second leg to my headlights... Two 55 watt high beams + 110 watts plus two hi/low 50 watt lights = 100 Total 210 watts. On a charging 14v alternator that's just 15 amps. Fine on stock wiring but a 30 amp fuse will over protect by double. The fuse will never blow but stock wiring could over heat if there is a high draw. Same with the starter solenoid wiring. Find the gauge and look up the maximum current carrying capacity and fuse just below that. Not good with stock gauge headlight wiring and ground. Quote Link to comment
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