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1979 510 I won on the Bring A Trailer...


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Hey All,  I won a 1979 Datsun 510 sedan on Bring A Trailer recently.  Brought it home (on a trailer) the other day and started going over the issues:

 

Brake lights will stay on due to a slightly loose brake pedal.  I'm talking maybe a mm or 2 and they come on.  I braced the pedal with a small bucket so it would no longer drain the battery.  I poked around the forums a little and some people had created a new "bump stop" to fix this issue?  Can anyone elaborate?  Where would I find it and tape a "coin" or some such to it to prevent the brake lights from coming on.

 

There's a short in the system somewhere.  Fuel and Temp gauges worked as well as turn signals.  I turned on the overhead dome light and that shorted things.  Replaced the fuse but that didn't help much cuz now the turn signals do not work (hazards do), fuel gauge inop and temp gauge inop.  I have dash lights and all the exterior lights seems to function.  Speedo and tach (aftermarket) work.  I had replaced the turn signal switch on my B210 last year to fix the turn signal issue

 

Engine runs well but has a high idle (1500rpms).  When I went to pick it up, it would not stay idleing, it would just die.  Seller wanted me to walk away from it (cuz it went for way less than what he wanted I think) but "I know what I have" and brought it home anyway.  Maybe an idle adjuster in the carb area somewhere?  It came with a Clymer manual and I can dig in to that, but wanted some expert opinions if any.  Thanks all!

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The brake light switch is likely adjustable. There may have been a small rubber bumper to activate the switch. Maybe it fell off.

 

A 'short' is a path for power to go to ground without going to the load it was intended. All circuits in the A10 are on fuses. If you 'short' out something it will just blow a fuse. Don't trust those glass fuses by just looking at them.

 

1,500 idle means the idle circuit is not working. Most likely the idle cut doesn't have power to the solenoid. Listen near the carburetor while someone turns the ignition on off on off. (not start) You should hear a soft clicking sound. Yes?No?

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21 hours ago, Dguy210 said:

This one right? Good looking car there

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1979-datsun-510/

 

Yes that's it!  Interior is near mint.  Body near mint also, no rust.  Paint has some crazing but not too bad.  Suspension is a little weak but it drives fine as is.  Radio works but is staticky until you jiggle the volume knob to the right setting, and then the three speakers are nice and loud.  Back seats may have never been sat in.  Not a project but definitely needing some stuff, as expected.  To find this in the midwest a few hours from home is amazing.  I had to import my '77 B210 from California, well worth it to this day though.

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21 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The brake light switch is likely adjustable. There may have been a small rubber bumper to activate the switch. Maybe it fell off.

 

A 'short' is a path for power to go to ground without going to the load it was intended. All circuits in the A10 are on fuses. If you 'short' out something it will just blow a fuse. Don't trust those glass fuses by just looking at them.

 

1,500 idle means the idle circuit is not working. Most likely the idle cut doesn't have power to the solenoid. Listen near the carburetor while someone turns the ignition on off on off. (not start) You should hear a soft clicking sound. Yes?No?

 

Thanks dude.  I will dig into it more this weekend and get back with some results hopefully.  

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Static on the volume knob? turn the radio off and spin the volume knob back and forth several dozen times. The wiper contacts are just oxidized. Working it repeatedly will clean them.

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9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Static on the volume knob? turn the radio off and spin the volume knob back and forth several dozen times. The wiper contacts are just oxidized. Working it repeatedly will clean them.

 

Yeah I have been kinda doing that, but will attack it with more vigor next time.  I did replace another fuse so now I have turn signals, fuel gauge and temp gauge.  Idle still high, will attack that this weekend.  The parking brake light comes on and off, possibly just a loose wire?  And the brake lights still come on when brake pedal is not depressed, but I found where the bump stop is and its cracked so just need something to cushion that brake pedal mount.  Thanks!

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On 6/13/2024 at 10:26 PM, datzenmike said:

Static on the volume knob? turn the radio off and spin the volume knob back and forth several dozen times. The wiper contacts are just oxidized. Working it repeatedly will clean them.

 

Update.  Moving the knob for the radio has been successful.  It's not perfect but I think its an aftermarket Kraco cassette unit and the speakers sound decent, probably an upgrade from the 1980s over factory.

 

Brake bump stop located and I glued a penny in there as others have done and it appears to have worked.

 

Idle still high 1200-1400rpms.  Looks like the butterfly choke valve is loose or stuck.  Will investigate further as time permits.

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Have you tried turning the idle speed down? If it won't idle below 1,200 possibly the idle cut solenoid is not working. Turn ignition on off on off (don't start) and listen for the clicking of the solenoid. Another is the idle circuit is plugged and not getting fuel.

 

 

PdRuWRS.jpg

 

A companion function to having the choke on is a fast idle. There us a small plastic cam with steps on it that lifts up into position blocking the throttle from closing. As the engine warms and the choke moves towards open the fast idle cam goes down the steps slowly lowering the idle to normal.

 

Hold the choke full closed and open the throttle slightly to release the cam and it should move onto position shown above. Release the choke and open the throttle and the cam should drop or rotate out of the way.

 

Possibly the linkage is just stuck. Hose down the area with WD-40 and move all the linkages through their motion. You'll have to hold the throttle slightly open to do this.

 

If choke is not working fix this first.

 

 

 

 

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On 6/15/2024 at 6:00 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

the brake light on the ealier 510 was just a plate that pushed a plubger switch.  Mine fell out and I just used a penny and 5 min exopy on there.

The swtich is also threaded adjustable. as with most older Datsun. LOOK! its EZ to figure out

 

Mission accomplished, thanks!

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On 6/15/2024 at 9:13 AM, datzenmike said:

Have you tried turning the idle speed down? If it won't idle below 1,200 possibly the idle cut solenoid is not working. Turn ignition on off on off (don't start) and listen for the clicking of the solenoid. Another is the idle circuit is plugged and not getting fuel.

 

 

PdRuWRS.jpg

 

A companion function to having the choke on is a fast idle. There us a small plastic cam with steps on it that lifts up into position blocking the throttle from closing. As the engine warms and the choke moves towards open the fast idle cam goes down the steps slowly lowering the idle to normal.

 

Hold the choke full closed and open the throttle slightly to release the cam and it should move onto position shown above. Release the choke and open the throttle and the cam should drop or rotate out of the way.

 

Possibly the linkage is just stuck. Hose down the area with WD-40 and move all the linkages through their motion. You'll have to hold the throttle slightly open to do this.

 

If choke is not working fix this first.

 

 

 

 

 

I found the idle adjuster screw and moved it in either direction and that didn't change anything.  I will go through these steps you listed when I have some more time.  Thanks!

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On 6/12/2024 at 8:35 PM, BigDan77 said:

Hey All,  I won a 1979 Datsun 510 sedan on Bring A Trailer recently.  Brought it home (on a trailer) the other day and started going over the issues:

 

Brake lights will stay on due to a slightly loose brake pedal.  I'm talking maybe a mm or 2 and they come on.  I braced the pedal with a small bucket so it would no longer drain the battery.  I poked around the forums a little and some people had created a new "bump stop" to fix this issue?  Can anyone elaborate?  Where would I find it and tape a "coin" or some such to it to prevent the brake lights from coming on.

 

There's a short in the system somewhere.  Fuel and Temp gauges worked as well as turn signals.  I turned on the overhead dome light and that shorted things.  Replaced the fuse but that didn't help much cuz now the turn signals do not work (hazards do), fuel gauge inop and temp gauge inop.  I have dash lights and all the exterior lights seems to function.  Speedo and tach (aftermarket) work.  I had replaced the turn signal switch on my B210 last year to fix the turn signal issue

 

Engine runs well but has a high idle (1500rpms).  When I went to pick it up, it would not stay idleing, it would just die.  Seller wanted me to walk away from it (cuz it went for way less than what he wanted I think) but "I know what I have" and brought it home anyway.  Maybe an idle adjuster in the carb area somewhere?  It came with a Clymer manual and I can dig in to that, but wanted some expert opinions if any.  Thanks all!

 

Nice buy on that!  I was in Holland 11 years & K'zoo 11 years, worked in classic car industry!  Check fusebox first for any signs of melting/damage.  If ANY corrosion, pull it & soak in white vinegar.  Dome light is powered by door jamb switches, which can break & short out...............??  There is a Datsun guy in GR area, that works on some cars for people............... I will PM his name! 😎 TJ now in Denver

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The beauty of how the interior light works is that if a door switch or wiring shorted to ground all that would happen is the interior lamp would just stay on.

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Had a local shop that sometimes deals with my older cars look at the engine idle.  According to them there are some vaccum leaks and whoever owned this previously set it up to have a higher idle so it would at least run.  They recommended a new carb (Weber?) and replace vaccum lines, which they weren't exactly suggesting they wanted to do.  Awesome though that they didn't charge me anything because nothing was repaired.  Taking it to Pittsburgh for the Bring a Trailer gathering this weekend, but decided to trailer it, as that is a huge trip with a bit of uncertainty surrounding the Datsun.  Also needing the front struts rebuilt but mounts and springs are unfindable at this point. I have the strut inserts but I hate dealing with spring compressors so I will find a shop to do those eventually.

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Many years ago, we gave my grandpa a nicely built F150 4x4 so he could use it to plow his driveway in northern Wisconsin. It was a CA truck with vacuum lines and doo-hickeys that didn't normally come on the 49 state trucks. He took it to a local mechanic to have some work done and they tore out all of the emissions stuff instead of learning how the stuff worked. The truck never ran well after that until years later it was discovered that they rearranged the plug wires into a 351 Windsor firing order, which is different from a 302 Windsor.

 

Another time, I had some difficulty explaining to a NAPA auto parts guy in Iron River Wisconsin that the car I needed parts for was an MG, not a GM.

 

Yet another time, we needed some tune-up parts for a Mazda RX7 with a rotary motor. The dude at the parts counter in Duluth, MN had no idea what a rotary was. He was convinced we were pulling his leg.

 

Point being, I've had bad luck with auto parts and service in that part of the world. Maybe you need to find a different mechanic.

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16 hours ago, BigDan77 said:

Had a local shop that sometimes deals with my older cars look at the engine idle.  According to them there are some vaccum leaks and whoever owned this previously set it up to have a higher idle so it would at least run.  They recommended a new carb (Weber?) and replace vaccum lines, which they weren't exactly suggesting they wanted to do.  Awesome though that they didn't charge me anything because nothing was repaired.  Taking it to Pittsburgh for the Bring a Trailer gathering this weekend, but decided to trailer it, as that is a huge trip with a bit of uncertainty surrounding the Datsun.  Also needing the front struts rebuilt but mounts and springs are unfindable at this point. I have the strut inserts but I hate dealing with spring compressors so I will find a shop to do those eventually.

 

Why replace the stock coil springs, unless you are looking to lower the car?  I rarely sell stock springs for the 68-73, cuz they simply do not wear out!  FYI of you decide to do something different, you can use the 68-73 510 coilover spring set & the adjustable upper camber plate.  On a car like yours, you could paint or powdercoat these parts ie black, to avoid the bright anodizes & red coilover springs................just to hide it!

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