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1990 D21 KA24E into 1984 720


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Can Am box is a simplified way of making a standalone harness. I prefer to do without gadgets when they aren't absolutely necessary, but some guys like all those doo-hickeys. That said, the Can Am box that Icehouse uses looks pretty tidy.

 

There is a thread here on Ratsun -

 

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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Man if i went megasquirt i could quit hoarding ECUs?

I just realized your title 90 KA. Those early KAs had and issue with the timing chain guides. Basically the plastic separated from the guide and accumulated in the oil pan. Nothing fatal they just became noisy. The 95 ups had better guides and the replacement guides were the improved version so nothing to be scared of, just aware. If your engine had high miles they may have been replaced already.

Edited by bottomwatcher
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15 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Man if i went megasquirt i could quit hoarding ECUs?

I just realized your title 90 KA. Those early KAs had and issue with the timing chain guides. Basically the plastic separated from the guide and accumulated in the oil pan. Nothing fatal they just became noisy. The 95 ups had better guides and the replacement guides were the improved version so nothing to be scared of, just aware. If your engine had high miles they may have been replaced already.

We used to make custom dual row chain setups for these motors using a 22RE cam sprocket and two original bottom sprockets, then we'd make guides from BMW 2002 parts. Way overkill for street motors.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

We used to make custom dual row chain setups for these motors using a 22RE cam sprocket and two original bottom sprockets, then we'd make guides from BMW 2002 parts. Way overkill for street motors.

Overkill? Over complicated? Finished reliable bulletproof product virtually indestructible on an 150-200hp street/mountain KA? I think your playing my song. Would you tell me more about this or more reasons why I don't want to do it?

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17 hours ago, Madkaw said:

Do a Megasquirt ECU and leave the 720 wiring harness alone . It will be sooooooo much easier 

I made an offer on a Megasquirt, I will know Monday, fingers crossed

 

(To be clear, if I get a Megasquirt then I do not need a  Can Am box?)

Edited by frankendat
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22 minutes ago, frankendat said:

Overkill? Over complicated? Finished reliable bulletproof product virtually indestructible on an 150-200hp street/mountain KA? I think your playing my song. Would you tell me more about this or more reasons why I don't want to do it?

It's been so long and it was before digital cameras so I do not have any pics.

 

There was machining involved. The 22RE cam sprocket was a close fit, but I think the outer register on the back of the gear needed trimming.

 

The two lower sprockets needed to be thinned so they could stack against each other.

 

The timing guides - I think the straight guide was a modified 2002 guide and the curved guide we made out of a modified L series guide. There was welding involved. Welding on the guides meant quick and low heat so the rubber didn't melt off.

 

Then the back of the timing cover had to be machined and a plate welded in. This was in the water pump cavity and had to be done to clear the thick chain.

 

Do it. Buy the parts and try it out. I'll help if I can.

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

We used to make custom dual row chain setups for these motors using a 22RE cam sprocket and two original bottom sprockets, then we'd make guides from BMW 2002 parts. Way overkill for street motors.

 

 

mKogqO4.jpg

 

L Z and KA. L and Z are the same KA are just single. I don't see why an L series set of sprockets won't work.

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2 hours ago, frankendat said:

I made an offer on a Megasquirt, I will know Monday, fingers crossed

 

(To be clear, if I get a Megasquirt then I do not need a  Can Am box?)

I don’t even know what a can am box is - lol

so no 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

mKogqO4.jpg

 

L Z and KA. L and Z are the same KA are just single. I don't see why an L series set of sprockets won't work.

Obviously we tried L series first, and the spacing was off. The 22RE upper sprocket was almost a direct fit. The lower L sprocket has a different bore size, if I recall.

 

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On 3/23/2024 at 12:12 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

There was machining involved. The 22RE cam sprocket was a close fit, but I think the outer register on the back of the gear needed trimming.

Thank you for the additional information.   What is listed above seems a workable, given my skill set. 

On 3/23/2024 at 12:12 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The two lower sprockets needed to be thinned so they could stack against each other.

What is listed above seems a workable, given my skill set. 

On 3/23/2024 at 12:12 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The timing guides - I think the straight guide was a modified 2002 guide and the curved guide we made out of a modified L series guide. There was welding involved. Welding on the guides meant quick and low heat so the rubber didn't melt off.

What is listed above seems to exceed my skill set. 

On 3/23/2024 at 12:12 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Then the back of the timing cover had to be machined and a plate welded in. This was in the water pump cavity and had to be done to clear the thick chain.

What is listed above seems to exceed my skill set

 

I will need to take this project under advisement....

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Turns out I haven't been able to spend more than 6 hours onsite, on any given day and some times only 4. Rain, hail and one snow have further delayed progress. The good news is that, based on my original hope of 2 days- sun up/sun down, total hours are only double the original hope. The bad news is, while getting close, more needs done. 

 

I have a few questions to anyone who will lend a keyboard.

 

1. Engine will require transport up and down the pass +2000 ft -2000 ft of 7% grade curve ridden highway. Placing the motor on an engine stand, puts the motor higher in the bed that appears comfortable.

 

I am considering placing a couple of used tires (no rims) in the bed, placing the engine atop the tires (oil pan through center) and using ratchet straps to secure.

 

The question(s): Is my idea to secure the engine in the truck bed for transport a tired and true method? If not, or in addition, what other methods of engine securing are used?

 

Thank you

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Update photos:  First, the tires off the truck, 4 tires-4 hours, some of the lugs were seized, concrete foundation block "jack stands".  placed on uneven hill-took time

 

Second: The rear axle- is that the HB or a R200 or something else?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Truck 7.jpg

Truck 5.jpg

Truck 4.jpg

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The destruction of Idaho- The homes in the picture are those advertised "from $875,000 to $3,000,000" the $3 million homes come with an acre, so these would be $875-$1 million (depending on sq. ft. and amenities). This picture is the beginning of a subdivision that will be a couple hundred homes. It is one of three such subdivisions near the Horseshoe Bend pass, all are currently full steam construction 20 miles from Boise. 

 

I don't understand why you would come to a land with open spaces to live in a million dollar mansion right next to another million dollar mansion. In an area that was good to hunt and farm just a few years back. 

 

Horseshoe Bend Development.jpg

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Californians are used to zero lot line homes. 

That truck looks pretty clean. Grab bolts wherever you can. Not h33. That does not have removable 3rd member. Tire method is redneck approved just strap for zero movement. A shifting load on a crowned road turning near a steep drop off will make you involuntary soil your drawers.

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8 hours ago, frankendat said:

Second: The rear axle- is that the HB or a R200 or something else?

 

Truck 5.jpg

Truck 4.jpg

 

It's a C-200. C= Salisbury style, gears/bearings bolt into the axle from the rear.  R= independent rear suspension. H= has gears self contained in a removable third member bolted in from the front. This would be a 4 cylinder D21 4x4. The 2wd would be an H-190 and any VG engine would have the H-233..

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9 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Californians are used to zero lot line homes. 

That truck looks pretty clean. Grab bolts wherever you can. Not h33. That does not have removable 3rd member. Tire method is redneck approved just strap for zero movement. A shifting load on a crowned road turning near a steep drop off will make you involuntary soil your drawers.

 

5 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Engine in the tire is the best way to transport in a pickup bed. 

 

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

It's a C-200. C= Salisbury style, gears/bearings bolt into the axle from the rear.  R= independent rear suspension. H= has gears self contained in a removable third member bolted in from the front. This would be a 4 cylinder D21 4x4. The 2wd would be an H-190 and any VG engine would have the H-233..

Thank you for the help. I am heading up late today and looking for best items for resale. Scrapping the truck proved disappointing. The bed and some miscellaneous metal brought $15 (I am double that in metal cutoff blades) The doors are scrap and door cards shot, but the glass is good, the rear window is in good shape, as well as, gasket. I plan to cut the window and gasket (leaving a metal edge) and let the purchaser deal with removing the gasket. That and radiator removal is the plan for today. 

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On 3/30/2024 at 10:25 PM, frankendat said:

I don't understand why you would come to a land with open spaces to live in a million dollar mansion right next to another million dollar mansion. In an area that was good to hunt and farm just a few years back. 

 

100%

 

I have neighbors that built their homes right on the road, or just a few dozen feet from their neighbor's houses. Why on earth would you move to the country to live in a neighborhood?

 

Our house is set back and hidden and I can do 50 mph in my driveway 😁

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3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

100%

 

I have neighbors that built their homes right on the road, or just a few dozen feet from their neighbor's houses. Why on earth would you move to the country to live in a neighborhood?

 

Our house is set back and hidden and I can do 50 mph in my driveway 😁

I worked a little longer than usual last night and left the area at dusk, spooked a herd of mule deer on the way down the mountain. You might be able to bowhunt in the area, even if for some strange reason it is open for rifle, I wouldn't shoot a .22 anywhere around there. The chance is too high it could hit someone or trigger a transplant into calling SWAT. Hopefully, the deer understand, when hit by traffic or drugged and transported somewhere after nibbling the community garden strawberries, that most of the new people in the area are democrats dedicated to protecting their environment.

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