Montzzz Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Buying my first ever Datsun 1970 521 pickup. I need all the advice on how to properly ruin it. it has stock air filter stock wheels. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Keep it stock it'll last forever Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 always ck the oil and antifreeze in the rad. Use 50/50 mix no water from hose unless a emergency alwasy chealk the brake and clutch fluid 1 Quote Link to comment
angliagt Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Welcome! - We need more pictures. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Welcome, I just bought a '71 Sunday. And what Anglia said, we need more pics. 1 Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 5 hours ago, datzenmike said: Keep it stock it'll last forever I will like to add a bit more power to it Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: always ck the oil and antifreeze in the rad. Use 50/50 mix no water from hose unless a emergency alwasy chealk the brake and clutch fluid Brakes are scary. I need like a football field in advance to brake. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 They are not self adjusting and they are drum not disc so all four need it. The farther the shoes travel, the farther the pedal goes to the floor. In a pinch, you can pull the e brake out a couple of clicks to 'tighten' the rears but this is not a fix. In addition there is only ONE master cylinder so ANY failure in the system and you lose all hydraulic braking. Your ability to stop safely trumps all other concerns about running or the wheels you have on it. Basically you will be polishing the brass on the Titanic if you don't get this fixed. Get the drums off and see what needs replacing... and replace it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 7 hours ago, angliagt said: Welcome! - We need more pictures. I don’t know how to load pictures here Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: Keep it stock it'll last forever Do you have links for places to buy parts for these trucks. I haven’t had luck on google Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 Try auto supply stores... such as NAPA, Rock auto, Lordco, Amazon, e-Bay, Summit, Auto Zone, Carquest auto parts, Advance auto parts..... Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 7 hours ago, KELMO said: Welcome, I just bought a '71 Sunday. And what Anglia said, we need more pics. how you load pictures and how you see pictures of other trucks here.? Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 (edited) 1 hour ago, Montzzz said: how you load pictures and how you see pictures of other trucks here.? The way i load pictures is using imgur.com . It's a free photo hosting site. Haven't looked into how much free space you have on the site, but all I use it for is for posting photos on this forum. 1. create imgur.com account 2. click on your user name on the top right hand side 3. click on "images" 4. click on the green "add images" button 5. click browse and choose the images you want 6. Once the pic is uploaded click on the picture 7. A pop up screen with your pic and a bunch of options on the right will pop up. I choose the option that says "BBCODE(message boards and forums". Click copy green button 8. When you paste the link in the forum you will get something like "[.img]https://i.imgur.com/MEu1Zib.jpg[/img.]" 9. You need to delete the "[ img ]" part from the beginning and end of the link which will leave you with https//imgur.cm/m eu1ib.jpg 10. Press enter I usually reduce image size to somewhere between 5 - 8 inches before I upload them to imgur. This will also save you space on imgur Edited January 10 by IZRL 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 What IZRL said. ^^^^^^ I use imgur as well. The only thing I do differently is before I click on "add images", click on "auto resize" and choose the one for message boards. Also, I have never deleted the "img" part. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 7 hours ago, Montzzz said: Do you have links for places to buy parts for these trucks. I haven’t had luck on google There is a parts link page in the actual 521 section..... Other than that just ask when a specific need comes up.... FYI don't trust the parts that sellers say fit the 521, even rock auto or autozone.. They often lump the 620 or earlier 521/520 models and there can be some slight differences.... couple examples.... Motor mounts Front inner wheel bearing, Fuel sending units.... Rear axle seal.... always try to compare to the original if replacing.... Also watch out for some counterfeit stuff like spark plugs and I forget what else we have seen counterfeited these days.. Also a good easy upgrade is to put disk brakes upfront with a dual master cylinders.... Rear is a bit more work to do, i would do them last when you run out of things to upgrade... drums will work fine back there.... Lastly worry about the power later... You don't need it to enjoy these trucks.... Something as simple as a weber and exhaust and proper adjustments can wake these engines up... A running driving datsun is always better than one you can't..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 DON'T buy NGK plugs from Amazon or E-Bay. Too many Chinese knock offs. These are what came in Datsuns so no Champion or Autolights. Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 10 hours ago, datzenmike said: DON'T buy NGK plugs from Amazon or E-Bay. Too many Chinese knock offs. These are what came in Datsuns so no Champion or Autolights. Thankx for the advice, iwas about to. how to know when they are knock offs? Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 11 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: There is a parts link page in the actual 521 section..... Other than that just ask when a specific need comes up.... FYI don't trust the parts that sellers say fit the 521, even rock auto or autozone.. They often lump the 620 or earlier 521/520 models and there can be some slight differences.... couple examples.... Motor mounts Front inner wheel bearing, Fuel sending units.... Rear axle seal.... always try to compare to the original if replacing.... Also watch out for some counterfeit stuff like spark plugs and I forget what else we have seen counterfeited these days.. Also a good easy upgrade is to put disk brakes upfront with a dual master cylinders.... Rear is a bit more work to do, i would do them last when you run out of things to upgrade... drums will work fine back there.... Lastly worry about the power later... You don't need it to enjoy these trucks.... Something as simple as a weber and exhaust and proper adjustments can wake these engines up... A running driving datsun is always better than one you can't..... I really appreciate the info, i guess mine is running good drove it for an hr an a half and mostly 70, the problem was going up hill. LOL Rockauto has a bunch of parts for a decent price, cheap spark plugs, i have never order from them. Problems so far gas and water gauge and dash lights not working. -Also when i turn the truck off the light that says "IGN" on the dash stays on when i take the key off. It goes off when i move the key to the "on" position, I stopped at a store and it did drained the battery, The battery is good but hasn't been charged in a while. I drove it at night and drives and charges fine so i don't know what could be My list of parts I need so far. brakes. that bring up asking you, what you recommend for disc brakes kit,? left quarter window lock shifter boot plate. You can see the ground from my shifter and it dances all over the place, needs that plate that bolts in to keep the movement short door locks horn window crank handles glove compartment windshield hood emblem fender emblem 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 12 minutes ago, Montzzz said: Shift boot. door locks horn window crank handles glove compartment windshield hood emblem fender emblem Most of this is basically ebay.... The gas and temp gauge and dash lights could be a couple things... Possibly the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster... or the grounds to the cluster.. Alot of electrical issues can be fixed by simply unplugging and plugging it back in... connections get corroded.... Sounds like you have a few electrical issue.... deal with each one at a time... To many questions or problems get confusing..... Also the shifter is notoriously loose... It can be tightened up slightly but that's about it.... As for brakes I forget what master cylinder you want, but it needs to be one for a front disk /rear drum.... The disk brakes I'm not sure who makes it other than silvermine now.... https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/front-brake-upgrade-custom-made-bracket-for-1964-1977-620-520-521-310 They have full kits but if you get just the bracket you can get the rest at the local autoparts store with a warranty.... I'm sure more info and questions will come.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 Best to just buy from a reputable store that avoids this problem and on the off chance you can take them back. 2 hours ago, Montzzz said: I really appreciate the info, i guess mine is running good drove it for an hr an a half and mostly 70, the problem was going up hill. LOL Rockauto has a bunch of parts for a decent price, cheap spark plugs, i have never order from them. Problems so far gas and water gauge and dash lights not working. -Also when i turn the truck off the light that says "IGN" on the dash stays on when i take the key off. It goes off when i move the key to the "on" position, I stopped at a store and it did drained the battery, The battery is good but hasn't been charged in a while. I drove it at night and drives and charges fine so i don't know what could be My list of parts I need so far. brakes. that bring up asking you, what you recommend for disc brakes kit,? left quarter window lock shifter boot plate. You can see the ground from my shifter and it dances all over the place, needs that plate that bolts in to keep the movement short door locks horn window crank handles glove compartment windshield hood emblem fender emblem Only use NGK plugs!!!! The temp and gas gauges share a voltage regulator so if both not working it could be the regulator. Check if your red CHARGE and IGNITION lights light up with the key. If they do then it's not the fuse. If the dash lights are out the tail lights will be too. Find the fuse box and place a quarter across the fuse contacts one by one till the tail lights come on. That's your bad fuse. The ignition light staying on could be the switch isn't going all the way to off. Disc brakes, I wouldn't get ahead of yourself with too many things. They would be nice but farther down the road. You need to get the stock ones working first so it's safe to drive. 1/ ADJUST the brakes. That may be all they need. This includes the e brake as well. 2/ Get the drums off and see what you need. If the wheel cylinders are leaking, replace them. New shoes are likely. 3/ Look at flushing the old brake fluid out and replace it. The shifter dust boot won't do much for the shifter slop. The shifter you have is well known for being sloppy and is AKA The 'Monkey Motion" sifter. My '71 shifted would swing in a circle the diameter of a basketball. The two rubber cones #8 can be tightened up by adding washers #7 to the top and bottom. Pin #19 can be replaced with a nut and bolt and a select fit washer(s) on that fork. Do NOT over tighten. The shifter has to be able to move. Pin #17 can also be replaced with nut and bolt keeping bushing and washers to snug up any slack. Again: Do NOT over tighten. The shifter has to be able to move. Horn, if there aren't any get some. This is a safety item just like brakes. If yours don't work hit the horn ring 50 or more times to clean the contact inside. This usually gets them working after sitting. The fuse is 15 amp. Use the quarter trick to find it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 3 hours ago, datzenmike said: Best to just buy from a reputable store that avoids this problem and on the off chance you can take them back. Only use NGK plugs!!!! The temp and gas gauges share a voltage regulator so if both not working it could be the regulator. Check if your red CHARGE and IGNITION lights light up with the key. If they do then it's not the fuse. If the dash lights are out the tail lights will be too. Find the fuse box and place a quarter across the fuse contacts one by one till the tail lights come on. That's your bad fuse. The ignition light staying on could be the switch isn't going all the way to off. Disc brakes, I wouldn't get ahead of yourself with too many things. They would be nice but farther down the road. You need to get the stock ones working first so it's safe to drive. 1/ ADJUST the brakes. That may be all they need. This includes the e brake as well. 2/ Get the drums off and see what you need. If the wheel cylinders are leaking, replace them. New shoes are likely. 3/ Look at flushing the old brake fluid out and replace it. The shifter dust boot won't do much for the shifter slop. The shifter you have is well known for being sloppy and is AKA The 'Monkey Motion" sifter. My '71 shifted would swing in a circle the diameter of a basketball. The two rubber cones #8 can be tightened up by adding washers #7 to the top and bottom. Pin #19 can be replaced with a nut and bolt and a select fit washer(s) on that fork. Do NOT over tighten. The shifter has to be able to move. Pin #17 can also be replaced with nut and bolt keeping bushing and washers to snug up any slack. Again: Do NOT over tighten. The shifter has to be able to move. Horn, if there aren't any get some. This is a safety item just like brakes. If yours don't work hit the horn ring 50 or more times to clean the contact inside. This usually gets them working after sitting. The fuse is 15 amp. Use the quarter trick to find it. Thanx for all the info but you gotta tell me what the quarter trick is now Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 4 hours ago, Montzzz said: Thanx for all the info but you gotta tell me what the quarter trick is now Hes just using the quarter to conduct electricity..... I use to hear people using a penny as a fuse to get home.... obviously it will not blow so not a good idea to leave there.... Thats broke on the side of the road knowledge right there.... Quote Link to comment
Montzzz Posted January 12 Author Report Share Posted January 12 22 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Most of this is basically ebay.... The gas and temp gauge and dash lights could be a couple things... Possibly the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster... or the grounds to the cluster.. Alot of electrical issues can be fixed by simply unplugging and plugging it back in... connections get corroded.... Sounds like you have a few electrical issue.... deal with each one at a time... To many questions or problems get confusing..... Also the shifter is notoriously loose... It can be tightened up slightly but that's about it.... As for brakes I forget what master cylinder you want, but it needs to be one for a front disk /rear drum.... The disk brakes I'm not sure who makes it other than silvermine now.... https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/front-brake-upgrade-custom-made-bracket-for-1964-1977-620-520-521-310 They have full kits but if you get just the bracket you can get the rest at the local autoparts store with a warranty.... I'm sure more info and questions will come.... My battery negative post wire goes to the engine. And the previous owner Mickey Mouse a wire from the negative post to the fender. With that wire connected is that the IGN light stays on. However without it won’t start. Doesn’t the negative post needs to go to the starter as well? i wish I could load pictures here easy Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 Negative cable bolts to the head near the #1 plug. Stock negative cables also have a 12? gauge wire that probably grounds under the battery tray or as in the case of the 510 the screw that grounds the voltage regulator to the body. In any case you can make your own ground from the engine to the body sheet metal. Body MUST be grounded for stuff to work. Positive cable is bolted to the starter lug. Somewhere on the positive cable or the battery post is a smaller gauge power wire (usually it's a fusible link) that goes to the ignition switch and the fuse box. Your IGN light being on is something else. Possibly the ignition switch is worn out and does not disconnect in the OFF position. 1 Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted January 13 Report Share Posted January 13 On 1/9/2024 at 5:09 PM, KELMO said: Welcome, I just bought a '71 Sunday. I had no idea the days of the week had model years. Huh. 1 Quote Link to comment
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