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Toyota wheels on a 720


frankendat

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On 6/20/2023 at 9:33 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I just googled "plastic melting temp" and found this - https://www.plastikcity.co.uk/useful-stuff/material-melt-mould-temperatures

 

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Spent the day trouble shooting the sandblaster setup. It was taking too much time (hours) to see results on the wheels, even the centercaps are stubbornly holding their finish(even with the pressure turned up). I think the problem is my use of fine grit aluminum oxide, Harbor Freight sells small bags of 40/70 glass, which is a step up. If the glass yields improvement, then I will know the problem was abrasive choice. There is not a large selection of abrasives available locally and to get a more specialized product will involve the mail and time. Abrasive suggestions for the plastic centercaps and or the factory coated silver wheels?

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On 6/22/2023 at 9:01 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I use 60-80 garnet to remove paint. It cuts hard, but it leaves a rough finish. Glass beads leave a smoother finish, but don't cut that well.

Purchased 10lbs of garnet from a local blast shop, curious if that will do 4 rims and 1 center cap. From my calculations I am a little light, but might be able to stretch it. Have a bunch of chores, but hope to steal away some time to blast this weekend.

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On 6/24/2023 at 5:04 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

It all depends on the kind of blaster you use. I use a cabinet which recycles the media. If you're doing it in the driveway, you will need to sweep up and recycle the media yourself.

I have a cabinet that recycles. The garnet has been the best of the bunch, but it struggles to remove the factory silver alloy coating, even @100psi. I am considering more extreme abrasives or perhaps a chemical coating remover, applied and rinsed before blasting.

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Realized my previous post lacked facts. I spent all the  blasting time referenced in the prior post on the steel/alloy wheels. Albeit slow, the garnet did remove some. Since garnet shatters, during the blasting process, it is my hope that the newly formed finer grit garnet will work well on the plastic (softer) center caps. I do not have a definitive timeline, to prove this center cap blasting gamble.

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The silver is probably powder coating, and yes, it can take some time to remove. To give it a head start, I will hit the powder with an aggressive wire wheel or even a flap disc on a grinder. A D/A sander will work too. With some of the powder removed, the blasting goes a bit faster. Just wear a mask if grinding off powder.

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On 6/27/2023 at 9:53 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The silver is probably powder coating, and yes, it can take some time to remove. To give it a head start, I will hit the powder with an aggressive wire wheel or even a flap disc on a grinder. A D/A sander will work too. With some of the powder removed, the blasting goes a bit faster. Just wear a mask if grinding off powder.

I like your attack plan for the coating better than mine, chemical removers usually contain a load of warnings worse than Happy Happy Fun Ball.

 

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On 6/27/2023 at 9:53 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The silver is probably powder coating, and yes, it can take some time to remove. To give it a head start, I will hit the powder with an aggressive wire wheel or even a flap disc on a grinder. A D/A sander will work too. With some of the powder removed, the blasting goes a bit faster. Just wear a mask if grinding off powder.

I will give a sander a try. I have been evaluating the sandblaster setup and watching some Youtubes about best blaster configuration. I take internet claims with salt (more than a grain) but most claim to use a lot less media to achieve a lot more. Mine is the only blaster I have ever used and only recently have I entertained using it more (for the last half a dozen years I have used it on average maybe 10 hrs a month.) Are you proficient in the setup of sandblasters?

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On 7/5/2023 at 8:38 PM, Thomas Perkins said:

These are for sale on my facebook Nissan page.

What do they want for them? Just curious, I am deep deep into this Toyota wheel swap and it would cause pain to pull out now.

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There is much disorder in my house. My family is small and neither I nor my sister have opted to procreate. A benefit is we are all very close, a detriment it will only get smaller; my father died. There has been much to do and much more to come as everything is sorted. I spend down time in the shop. The Toyota wheels, which are the subject of this thread, were powder coated twice before they found their way to me. I thought, the metal was silver and the wheels had been powder coated black, this was incorrect. The metal is a dull aluminum alloy, the first (factory) powder coat was silver, the silver was scuffed (for adhesion) and black powder coat applied.
I have documented the steps taken to remove all powder coat, some have worked, some not. It has proven a substantial time suck. 

Sitting in the shop and sanding/blasting rims (with power and with out) is calming and adds to the list of truck mods that if I paid some fool a dollar and hour to do, he would be rich, I would be in debt and out of money.

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On 7/14/2023 at 9:53 PM, Thomas Perkins said:

He wants 200 for the 4 rims.Want me to ask him if you can mugput them on layaway.

Those rims are choice, but I have to stay the plan. After all the time spent with these Toyota wheels I becoming emotionally attached! 😀

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Turning the blast pressure up to 100psi and using 60 grit garnet was effective, almost too effective, as I now have some unevenness in places on the flat sections. I am considering using a big belt sander, that could cover each flat section entirely and a small level, to hold the desired angle and flattening out the flat sections.

 

Spent some time talking with the Cerakote advisors and while they endorse  their product and it has been used successfully  on automotive rims, on a 4wd, a thicker coating, like powder coat has some advantages. And, for applications that will see prolonged exposure to the sun, the air cured line of Cerakote products would resist fading much better than their oven cured line. (This information coming after I have already spent time and money in construction of a larger oven)

 

Many paths to consider, but I have family needs, that will be slowing this process significantly.

 

The pictured wheel took many, too many, hours to get to this state. For best results Cerakote should be applied to a clean and 100 grit blasted surface, so before application, the wheel needs a 100 grit blast to achieve the  correct adhesion profile.

There is a flat black that I like, but I have a good amount of their darker black that has an underlining almost sparkle like appearance. Or to make things difficult (my favorite) Flat black on the Flat parts (spokes) and the darker Cerakote black on the non-flat (sides of spokes, outer ring) to act as permanent highlighting shadow. (both blacks are air cured)

 

 

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On 7/11/2023 at 5:19 PM, frankendat said:

What do they want for them? Just curious, I am deep deep into this Toyota wheel swap and it would cause pain to pull out now.

Is the center hole large enough to fit the 4wd hubs?

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From the looks of them in the picture,they look like they are not for a 4x4.I will ask him and get him to measure them.I bought some brand new ones for my 4x4 a few years ago.I bought 5 of them and have the spare in the shed.I don't want to put it under the truck and let the rocks and stuff mess it up.I paid a little over 1900 for 5 tires,5 rims with accorn lug nuts and front end alignment have 24 new extra accorn lug nuts I got from ebay for 19 bucks.I just took some pictures of my rims and center cap.The inside is off set as you see.From inside center to end of cap is 4 inches and they are 4 inches in diameter from the inside and they fit perfect.To get them in the rims you have to put them in the inside.On the one's I had before which came off a 2000 Toyota 4x4.You put them in from the outside,they had built in like clips.But I had to grind the center with my dremel tool to make fit.Mine are American Racing Rims.I taped this cap,so the sticker wouldn't get messed up.The center of the cap sticks out a little on the inside.See how much  my hubs are to the lug nuts and his hub is far away.So I would say his will not fit a 4x4.Toyota front rims does not have a hub cause you have to get out and lock it in.When I bought them Toyota rims,I only got 2 hubs.I found 2 on Ebay.

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Edited by Thomas Perkins
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