demo243 Posted May 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2023 1 hour ago, iceman510 said: A lot of work you have dived into, but it will pay off with a great foundation for reliability. I don't get your comment about removing the brake signal from the turn signal stalk. Not familiar really with Z wiring, so how does the turn signal stalk affect the brake lights? From what I’ve read it is because on the Z the tailights share brake/tail/ and turn signal functions the brake switch is routed up through the column so the turn signal switch can cancel out the brake light power when the turn is engaged. If I remember correctly the trucks 620/521 have a similar set up. On that note I should probably double check my 510 wiring too… it’s been so long since I did that… Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted May 31, 2023 Report Share Posted May 31, 2023 Ah, ok that makes sense. GM cars have generally used that type of situation too, with turn signal overriding the brake light. 510 is definitely simpler in stock configuration, with brake light signal straight from the brake switch to the rear lamps. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2023 3 minutes ago, iceman510 said: Ah, ok that makes sense. GM cars have generally used that type of situation too, with turn signal overriding the brake light. 510 is definitely simpler in stock configuration, with brake light signal straight from the brake switch to the rear lamps. Thanks. that’s what I remembered from wiring my 510 too. So I should be good there. Also when I rewired the 510 and the 620 I used the light switch that came with the kit- it was a pull knob same as the 510 and 620- and then made it much simpler since park/tail lights ran right out of that switch. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 31, 2023 Report Share Posted May 31, 2023 On 5/26/2023 at 8:05 PM, demo243 said: The plan moving forward is to get the car running as soon as possible (makes it that much easier to move around) with the following steps -Strip the rest of the wiring - deciding what if any to keep. -Mount the kickpanels and fuse panel -Make some block off plates for the "fresh air vents" - Still TBD on this - might be nice to actually have these maybe? -Make a block off for the blower motor air intake. -Mount the new vintage dash to the frame and put the dash back in the car. -Wire up the ignition so I can at least start it and move it. I know this means I will have to wire and install the speed hut gauges while the dash is already in the car, but I don't think that will be too much of an issue. The rest of the wiring I am thinking will be simpler to run with the dash in place for wire lengths and what not. Then I can build in the disconnect or go back in and cut and add it in. Not sure if it's an issue, but thought it worth noting... If the alternator is wired anything like the stock set-up, it won't work without the idiot light connected. This lesson was learned the hard way. 😁 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2023 5 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: Not sure if it's an issue, but thought it worth noting... If the alternator is wired anything like the stock set-up, it won't work without the idiot light connected. This lesson was learned the hard way. 😁 It’s a ZX alt if that makes a difference… there is a 2 wire plug coming out of it- one I jumped to the power out stud the other I was going to run to an idiot light. Would have to go check which I did where - but that’s what I found from searching that’s another thing I need to fix on the 510- alt has a drain on the batt when off and I think it’s because it is not connected to an idiot light, but that’s a KA alt Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 23 hours ago, demo243 said: that’s another thing I need to fix on the 510- alt has a drain on the batt when off and I think it’s because it is not connected to an idiot light, but that’s a KA alt Might well be the cause. FYI, if you get one of these, they bolt right up to a Datsun motor and only need one wire to function. Also shaves a fair bit of weight off too. The ideal way to go when you are doing a full rewire, IMO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303518172563 Don't know how well they work on a KA, yet. Was planning to swap a KA-T into my Z, so I will know eventually. 😋 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 21 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: Might well be the cause. FYI, if you get one of these, they bolt right up to a Datsun motor and only need one wire to function. Also shaves a fair bit of weight off too. The ideal way to go when you are doing a full rewire, IMO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303518172563 Don't know how well they work on a KA, yet. Was planning to swap a KA-T into my Z, so I will know eventually. 😋 Hmmm that’s an interesting Alt. I’ll have to keep that in mind if I need a replacement or have trouble. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted June 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2023 Not much to update - been tied up and the weather hasn't been cooperating... Speedhuts showed up today. Not totally stoked on their new wiring... the old ones came with a daisy chain harness to connect all the power and lighting for the gauges... the new ones come with some plastic multi connection unit... not totally sold on it... also didn't see a dimmer included, but I never use it on my old gauges so hopefully not needed. Ran into a little bit of a planning issue, with all the relays needed for the lights (High, Low, Fog, Tail, L Turn, L Hazard, R Turn, and R Hazard) - Even using compact relays, they aren't going to fit on the kick panel next to the fuse panel - well I could fit them, but I think it will be too tight and to annoying to deal with. New plan is to relocated them behind the center dash section. I am not running a heater/blower so there is plenty of space back there. Half the switched will be mounted to that panel, so not much extra wire to run either. I think Im going tot mount them to a small piece of angle aluminum and then here- Also got the new tail light sockets in - and they fit! They are just a hair loose- likely ok, but could potentially come loose... - so I stretched a 14mm o-ring around them, and now they are perfectly snug. Just need to figure out which wire does which on the double filament ones. Will probably just plug and LED bulb in and test em. Here are the sockets - ordered from O'reilly Weather isn't looking great for Fathers day weekend, but hope it gets better and I can get some serious work done. -Wire the tail light sockets -Build a loom for the front lights and fan -Gauges install -Center consol panel install -Finish the rest of the wiring! 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 15, 2023 Report Share Posted June 15, 2023 11 hours ago, demo243 said: Speedhuts showed up today. Not totally stoked on their new wiring... the old ones came with a daisy chain harness to connect all the power and lighting for the gauges... the new ones come with some plastic multi connection unit... not totally sold on it... also didn't see a dimmer included, but I never use it on my old gauges so hopefully not needed. When I ordered my last set, you had to request (and probably pay extra for) the dimmer to be included. Oddly, I did not, but they sent it anyway. And like you, I don't think I ever used it once. 😋 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2023 (edited) Been busy, but was able to spend most of the 4th holiday weekend working on the car. Lots of progress on the wiring- I would say Im about 95% there, just need to re-pin the connectors at the combo switch and run a few wires out to the wipers and washer fluid. Checking my work, my relays for hazards, turns, tails, fogs, and hi/low beams are all functional! Wahoo! - I think I'm going to have to do something similar with the 510 and to add a hazard switch. Its been a very tedious process wiring this car- now my 3rd rewire - trying to make it as clean as possible, bundling as much wire as I can. Then ran into hell trying to get the oil filter off to install a sandwich plate adapter to run the gauges off of. Ultimately broke a metal strap style wrench, a plier style wrench and resorted to cutting the canister off and then prying it away from the block face and driving it off with a punch.... yea not fun. 3hrs for what should have been 10 minutes... Seems like they didn't tape off the face when the block was painted - don't know if that's stock or not. Makes me wonder if this engine was rebuilt at some point, or just "cleaned " up before it was swapped in. Much better now - still need to put the car up and drain/replace the oil since there is a nice new filter on there. Hopefully Ill get it back driving this coming weekend! Probably won't make it in time for a safety inspection before next week though... Just waiting on a couple more spade terminals from amazon. Ordered 2.8mms from them, but they didn't have the lock tab on them, and don't feel like doing the job twice. Edited July 7, 2023 by demo243 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 7, 2023 Report Share Posted July 7, 2023 Very clean looking.... Nice work.... Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2023 And we are back in business! "Finished" the wiring, got the gauges in and took it for a quick spin up and down the block. Still got a few quirks to work out. -Very tiny coolant drip from the temp sensor. Put the speed hut sensor in the stock location with an adapter... so not ideal, now relying on the threads to seal it. Will try and snug it down a touch more -Alternator wiring isn't right - requires a rev to 3-4k to get it to charge - same as the 620 did... I think maybe the tiny LED dummy light I have doesn't draw enough for the alt to notice it... or I have those two wire backwards... -Speedo isn't receiving the VSS signal from the adapter I got... first thing to check is that I didn't mix up the power in and ground... -I also have a very annoying gauge lighting issue with the speed hut gauges. They say to tie the white wire into the dash lights --- ie the tailight circuit on the Z... so now I have no gauge lighting with the lights off (daytime) but they do come on when the taillights turn on... but... they are not responding to LED adjustments per speed huts instructions. Sent them an email.... well see. Going to be a pain if I need to change the power source - and frustrating because they said to tie to the dash lights! -Finally issue comes down to the wipers. They are wired up and working - although high and low seem the same... They do park most the time... but I am left with to wires on the comb switch; which I believe to be the wipe while wash and intermittent wiper functions, but I can't figure out how to wire them... I only have 5 pins coming from the wiper motor, which I believe to the power, ground, high, low and park... There are 3 dots on the combo switch and currently the first does nothing... TBD. --- Messy notes but here they are 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 9, 2023 Report Share Posted July 9, 2023 Not sure about the wiper but I know 9 times out of 10 the alternator doesn't like the led dummy light... I had the same charge issue.... Just put a regular bulb back in.... 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2023 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Not sure about the wiper but I know 9 times out of 10 the alternator doesn't like the led dummy light... I had the same charge issue.... Just put a regular bulb back in.... I was afraid of that… The light is a tiny little led all in one unit - Amazon special… - so will have to find another light or maybe a resistor or something? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 9, 2023 Report Share Posted July 9, 2023 13 minutes ago, demo243 said: I was afraid of that… The light is a tiny little led all in one unit - Amazon special… - so will have to find another light or maybe a resistor or something? Ah.... Resistor might work.... maybe measure the resistance of a regular bulb vs the led....? I have a bag if resistors I could easily mail you some.... just let me know the value you think you'll need.... 2 ways I'm thinking... Inline with the led or possibly just a jumper from power at the alternator... Not sure which would work.... 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) 6 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Ah.... Resistor might work.... maybe measure the resistance of a regular bulb vs the led....? I have a bag if resistors I could easily mail you some.... just let me know the value you think you'll need.... 2 ways I'm thinking... Inline with the led or possibly just a jumper from power at the alternator... Not sure which would work.... I was thinking in-line… but not really worried about it got out to mess with a few things… vss sensor is wired correctly per their instructions and still no signal…rather the screw around with it more I think I’m just gonna try and pick up a 240sx vss sensor- should bolt in from what I’ve read, and works on the 510. stumped on the gauge lighting… jumped the tail light output (powers the gauge lighting) to a constant ignition source and nothing changed. Tail lights lit up so I know they got powered. Edited July 9, 2023 by demo243 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2023 So about that 240sx speed sensor... damn they got expensive! Costs about as much as a used transmission just to get the sensor, gear and snap ring! That's ridiculous! Gonna check my spare trans in the basement, might be able to steal one off that, I think its an SR trans, but should be the same. Gotta pick up another KA trans for the 510 one of these days anyway.... Or I could try a pull up resistor on the current adapter. They say its only needed for ECUs, but maybe the speed hut needs it too. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 10, 2023 Report Share Posted July 10, 2023 20 hours ago, demo243 said: Gonna check my spare trans in the basement, might be able to steal one off that, I think its an SR trans, but should be the same. Gotta pick up another KA trans for the 510 one of these days anyway.... Know anyone swapping the other direction with a "free" sensor? I will be, but not soon enough to help I don't think... Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2023 4 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Know anyone swapping the other direction with a "free" sensor? I will be, but not soon enough to help I don't think... that is a good thought but unfortunately I don’t at the moment. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2023 On 7/9/2023 at 4:39 PM, demo243 said: stumped on the gauge lighting… jumped the tail light output (powers the gauge lighting) to a constant ignition source and nothing changed. Tail lights lit up so I know they got powered. Spoke to speedhut. I guess the gauges are only backlit when power is applied to the white wire - the one they say to connect to dash lighting- so if I want to have them lit all the time I need to change that to a constant 12v… a bit annoying but I don’t think it will be too hard of a fix… still I feel like they should put a note on their instructions saying that. As for the LED brightness issue, that brightness is only for the LED warning lights, not the whole gauge. They said they are working on a LED dimmer for the backlight and pointer but don’t think I’ll need one. VSS is still tbd, checked the wiring and it is proper. Speedhut said the speedo and adapter may need to share a ground- which would be an annoying fix I think. They recommend I check the adapter for a signal - probably will try and spin it with a drill. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 On 7/12/2023 at 2:28 PM, demo243 said: As for the LED brightness issue, that brightness is only for the LED warning lights, not the whole gauge. They said they are working on a LED dimmer for the backlight and pointer but don’t think I’ll need one. Weird. My last set came with one? Must be something to do with a redesign since then... FWIW, Autometer makes one for dimming LEDs. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-9114 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2023 4 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Weird. My last set came with one? Must be something to do with a redesign since then... FWIW, Autometer makes one for dimming LEDs. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-9114 👍 good to know about that autometer one. Don't think I'll need it but that's an option if I do. Hoping to get the car inspected this week, speedo isn't working, but they shouldn't notice that. Tried removing power to the the adapter, since the stock VSS on a 240sx is just ground and signal wire but that didn't work. Honestly to lazy to mess around with it, so I grabbed a manual 240sx one from eBay... hopefully that solves the problem. A bit nervous about the inspection though as they typically jack the car up to check the wheel bearings and I feel like there is no good/accessible jack point... The car is at "stock height" but with the short tires I can't even get my low jack under the front lip with out putting the front end up on 2 2x8s first. Having trouble finding a decent seating position - its so different then my 510... With the roll bar in the 510 and the WRX seats it puts you in a very upright position which I like. Verses the Z which needs to be much more laid back. I know the R100 seats sit a touch taller then the stock so that isn't helping. I think I need to bump to a larger steering wheel, the Renown wheel I got (same as the one in the 510) is 350mm and block quite a bit of the gauge face - might have to bump up to a 380mm steering wheel. Other option is to try and space it out closer to the driver more. This I might try first by stealing the adapter from the 510 - I need to put a shorter one in the 510 anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 Well… was hoping to legally drive it this weekend… but doesn’t look like that will happen. Took it to get inspected this morning - even took it to the local MG shop that does inspections- and the guy couldn’t get it started… I know it’s a bit finicky and takes some finesse… Anyway he said if I got it running he would inspect it, so I hoped in got it started first try, he hoped back in and killed it and tried to start again and couldn’t… so no inspection. The car definitely needs a tune, it’s idling around 12-1300rpm which is high. Guess I need to figure out how to tune SUs… 🤬🤬🤬 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 2 hours ago, demo243 said: it’s idling around 12-1300rpm which is high. Guess I need to figure out how to tune SUs… It is surprisingly easy once you get the hang of it. You can get them about 95% there with no tools whatsoever. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted July 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 (edited) 12 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: It is surprisingly easy once you get the hang of it. You can get them about 95% there with no tools whatsoever. Im hoping so. Pretty sure I have a book or two that came with the car, and have been told to check out the Z therapy videos. Really don’t want to invest anything in these carbs as the long term goal is a set of triple OERs or maybe even 6 Mikuni HSRs. But that is not in the budget right now. I guess some details of the issue might help too— The car is hard to start, turns over fine, but hard to get it to fire, will usually fire and die immediately. If you catch it just right with a blip of the throttle it will fire up and idle fine. Choke doesn’t seem to make a difference. Once running it seems to be fine, idle is high though ~12-1300rpm. Car drives well, no noticeable bog or anything. Plenty of pull and low end grunt when driving around. As far as I know it’s a stock L28 out of a ZX. Edited July 27, 2023 by demo243 Quote Link to comment
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