'73 240z - Project Build

[demo243]

Pulled the rest of the interior panels… and found another mouse nest back by the fuel vent tank- it stinks! Cleaned it up with some bleach/tide at the wife’s recommendation- but still smells… I think it’s soaked into the fabric of the fuel vent lines…
 

Threw a quick coat of primer and paint on the floor pans inside- mostly just to  “clean it up”. Por15 or rust bullet would probably be the proper solution, but didn’t want want anything that permanent yet.

 

Also popped some of the driver door dent out… but still having issues with the window hitting the support beam in there… I think it may have been bent as well- so probably looking for a new door…

Got a few parts kicking around, just need good weather and time…

 

-New weather stripping for the doors and potentially the tailgate.

 

-Got some Sparco R100 seats, and a renown wheel. 

 

- Skillard door mounts triangles  /GT mirrors (didn’t realize these are drill/rivet in… not totally sure… thought about tape but the fit is only OK…)

 

-New hoses to re-plumb the vent tank (was going to delete it … but fuel safe caps for the tank are hard to come by…)

 

-New retro seatbelts

 

-Vintage Dashes blem unit is en route to replace the cracked dash.

 

-15x8 0 Rota TBTs- excited for these! I know they are knock offs… but the price is right… still need to decide tires. Thinking 225/45 RS4s or 205/50 Falkens same as the 510… but leaning toward the 225s since I really don’t like the stretched look.

 

- … I’m sure I’m missing something else… 

 

I’ll get some more photos up soon.

 

[Crashtd420]

8 hours ago, demo243 said:

KF Vintage was my plan. Will likely grab the panels soon just to have them on hand for when I can find someone to weld em in or I finally decide to learn myself.

I can bring my welder over when your ready.... just fill the tank and grab a spool of wire and we can get it done....

[demo243]

2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I can bring my welder over when your ready.... just fill the tank and grab a spool of wire and we can get it done....

Rad!

 

 

[demo243]

Progress is slower then I hoped, but I did manage to get some stuff done over the weekend. 

 

Primer and black paint for the floors - as mentioned before. 

 

 

 

Unfortunately the boxiness of the 510 lends its self well to being a shelf.... 

 

 

Added some yellow Hellas for some DRLs - and just because... I really miss having the yellows on the 510 since adding the air funnel, might have to go back to them over there. I wanted to mount the hellas a bit closer to center, but had this angle aluminum easily available, so it does the job for now. 

 

 

Had the car up on the race ramps so I could drop the tank a bit to replace all the vent hoses--- guess I didn't take a photo of that... Used all fuel rated replacement hose from O'reilly. For the 180 bend out of the upper vent I used a 180 AN fitting with hose barbs on either end, seems to have worked well. 

 

Got the Sparco R100s installed. Really wanted to run OMP Style seats since they came with a 3rd (anti Sub) slot in them, but they were out of stock everywhere with no ETA, so the Sparcos were the next best choice- Ultimately I do want to run a roll bar in the car, but we'll see if I ever end up putting harnesses in... Should probably shift the passenger seat slightly more inward cause clearance is really tight, but that's for another time. Worth mentioning these were practically "bolt in" there is a write up on hybrid Z so I won't go into to much detail but basically used some universal sliders that fit the seats and the distance between the stock mount holes (front to back), and then just had to use a Dremel to widen the stock mount holes - simple as that! So far they feel quite comfortable, and much more side supportive then the stock seats. Perhaps slightly tall - Im 5'10ish and much taller could be an issue... but I am also used to the 510 which has seats practically bolted to the floor so much more room in there. Added a Renown steering wheel on a NRG short hub as well... TBD... needs a spacer for the horn to work with the short hub, and the wheel sits right in the line of sight of the gauges so may have to play with this one... 

 

 

 

Also installed the RetroBelt seat belts - guess I didn't grab any good photos of those either... A bit disappointed with them. Quality looks nice, but the retractors don't fit in the stock buckets that the '73 has.. so they take up extra space keeping the seats from sliding all the way back, also the angles of everything just aren't quite right... they work, and are better then the moldy stock ones that were there. 

 

Threw a 5 Panel Wink Mirror in --- TBD as to whether I like it or not... Used inner mounts from the sun visors so didn't make any holes, so easy to revert back. Just not much real estate to work with in the Z. I really like having it in the 510, but the whole mirror is functional in there. In the Z it seems like only the 2nd panel mirror is really useful... gives as much view as the stock rear view mirror though, and with just a slight glance up, so I think its better then the stock one.

 

Finally a quick and simple brace for the Xenon front air dam. This thing is very flimsy... and plenty of photos of them deforming at speed... Just ran a 1.5" flat aluminum bar under the upper edge, and brace the center of the lower edge back. Was planning on adding more, but I don't think it will be needed- TBD. 

 

Also started to run into some wiring issues... PO rewired the car with a painless kit... but the signals and hazards are not working... also when you turn the headlights on the left indicator lights up.... so short answer is I need to dive into the wiring... Also the fuse panel placement is terrible... up underneath the steering column. Really don't want to re-wire the car, but it might be in the future. Gonna spend a little bit of time to try and get the necessities sorted out and deal with the rest later. 

 

 

 

[datsunfreak]

On 5/8/2023 at 7:37 PM, demo243 said:

PO rewired the car with a painless kit... 

 

This is a good thing. Except when they do it wrong.  😋

 

Fighting this battle on a 510 project right now. The stock switches (headlight, turn, wiper, etc) don't really work the way that American car stuff does. If you don't know them really well, it's better to replace them when you rewire the car from scratch. Otherwise, you end up with headaches like that...

[demo243]

11 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

This is a good thing. Except when they do it wrong.  😋

 

Fighting this battle on a 510 project right now. The stock switches (headlight, turn, wiper, etc) don't really work the way that American car stuff does. If you don't know them really well, it's better to replace them when you rewire the car from scratch. Otherwise, you end up with headaches like that...

I have a feeling he may have over/under thought it at the same time some how... Just need to dig a bit deeper... Ive rewired 2 cars already myself so hopefully I can sort this out.

[demo243]

Just dropping this here too... 

 

Z needs some LOW!

[demo243]

After spending another 2 hours chasing down the signal issue… finding a few different miss placed connections and shorting a wire or two with a screw I decided I have had enough and ordered up another American Autowire Highway 15 kit- I used this same kit on the 510 and the 620 with good results. I like this kit as the wires are not pre-terminated at the fuse panel allowing for more flexibility and no excess. I thought about the 22 panel, but it’s so much bigger I didn’t think it was needed.
 

 

The Z will definitely throw a couple curve balls at me with the combo switch but there is more documentation about using the universal wiring kits so hopefully I’ll find my solutions. 

Going to relocate the fuse panel from its current location (buried under the steering column) to the passenger kick panel- or maybe the firewall, but most likely the kick panel. It’s a bit more exposed there to a “errant kick” but much easier to access and work with. I rarely ever have anyone in the car with me anyway… 

 

Now the question is so I do speedhut gauges now or later… 

 

Debating on Skillard door panels right now as well as their center console as well. I do need to pick up their glove box and hinge. 
 

Also thinking about making kick and dogleg panels from the abs plastic I used for door cards on the 510. Should probably just order the skillard ones too… but I’m already throwing to much money at this car…

 

Eventually BC coils and ST sways… but the extra $$ being spent now might delay that…

 

This project is snowballing! But don’t they all!

 

 

[datsunfreak]

On 5/16/2023 at 11:32 AM, demo243 said:

Going to relocate the fuse panel from its current location (buried under the steering column) to the passenger kick panel- or maybe the firewall, but most likely the kick panel. It’s a bit more exposed there to a “errant kick” but much easier to access and work with. I rarely ever have anyone in the car with me anyway… 

 

With a stock dash, I really like putting them inside the glove box. Easy access, and no chance of it getting kicked. And I don't use the glove box for anything anyway. 

 

On 5/16/2023 at 11:32 AM, demo243 said:

Now the question is so I do speedhut gauges now or later… 

 

Definitely do it before you rewire the whole car, IMO. No reason to do the dash/gauge stuff twice. Also gives you a chance to integrate the Speedhut wiring into your loom. Gives it a much better finished look. 👍

 

On 5/16/2023 at 11:32 AM, demo243 said:

Debating on Skillard door panels right now

 

Also thinking about making kick and dogleg panels from the abs plastic I used for door cards on the 510. Should probably just order the skillard ones too… but I’m already throwing to much money at this car…

 

FWIW, I am doing this. Skillard for the doors, DIY for the kick panels. You can barely see those kick panels anyway, so I don't think it's justifiable to spend the chips on that. The door panels you see every time you drive it. 😁

[demo243]

6 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

With a stock dash, I really like putting them inside the glove box. Easy access, and no chance of it getting kicked. And I don't use the glove box for anything anyway. 

 

 

Definitely do it before you rewire the whole car, IMO. No reason to do the dash/gauge stuff twice. Also gives you a chance to integrate the Speedhut wiring into your loom. Gives it a much better finished look. 👍

 

 

FWIW, I am doing this. Skillard for the doors, DIY for the kick panels. You can barely see those kick panels anyway, so I don't think it's justifiable to spend the chips on that. The door panels you see every time you drive it. 😁

We are thinking on the same level!

 

I ordered the Speedhut gauges last night - red numbers on black faces, same as I ran on the 510. I was worried their lead time would delay me, but got another email today saying 15-20 days which is half of what they say online so should be ok! Gives me an excuse to break out the Vintage Dash and get that mounted up. Skilled glove box, hinge and license plate light are en-route. American Auto-wire harness showed up today along with a few other odds and ends. Need to pick up a few more connectors I think... 

 

Gonna run the old door cards for now and eventually replace them with Skillards. 

I like the hidden nature of the fuse panel in the glove box, but I do actually tend to keep stuff in there, and the American panel is not small... TBD still, but more then likely the kick panel.

 

Tires for the new wheels on Saturday- hopefully install on the car Sunday evening or Monday. Going 225/45 Falken 660s on 15x8 0 wheels - will probably just roll the fenders to get it done before even mounting the wheels up.

Tied up this weekend with other stuff so probably won't get much else done... but hopefully get some more progress soon. First step will likely be pull the gauges and the dash. Then the wiring. Then get the ignition set up first so I can at least start and run the car to move it around while I work on the rest. 

 

[demo243]

Fresh meat

 

 

[demo243]

Progress.... and more set backs...

 

I'll start with the exciting! 

 

New wheels mounted up! Really happy with them.

 

Although the car definitely needs to go A LOT LOWER! Attempted to roll the fenders preemptively but the cheap re-spray started cracking immediately so I held off on that.  

 

Also threw a quick coat of paint on the rear valence.

 

 

And installed the Skillard license plate light - original was quite literally falling to dust.


 

Also cut out some dog-leg interior panels- they need a touch more trimming and some mount holes figured out, but was getting late.

 

 

Now for the set-backs...    

 

The rear brake conversion definitely needs attention...  The parking brake arms are contacting the body... and there is nothing supporting the hard lines... going to have to sort something out in order to drop the car low...

 

 

Edited May 23, 2023 by demo243

[datsunfreak]

16 hours ago, demo243 said:

The rear brake conversion definitely needs attention...  The parking brake arms are contacting the body... and there is nothing supporting the hard lines... going to have to sort something out in order to drop the car low...

 

I have in the past mounted the caliper down low. Made bleeding a pain, but made clearance much better. 

 

The trick to bleeding them (if you try this): unbolt the caliper from the car, remove the rotor, flip the caliper over where the bleeder points up, put the (now loose) rotor between the pads, then bleed as normal. This always worked for me. 

[demo243]

6 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I have in the past mounted the caliper down low. Made bleeding a pain, but made clearance much better. 

 

The trick to bleeding them (if you try this): unbolt the caliper from the car, remove the rotor, flip the caliper over where the bleeder points up, put the (now loose) rotor between the pads, then bleed as normal. This always worked for me. 

That is definitely an option. Just gotta make sure the adapters will work that way

 

I run the rear calipers like that on my 510. 

[datsunfreak]

10 minutes ago, demo243 said:

That is definitely an option. Just gotta make sure the adapters will work that way

 

I run the rear calipers like that on my 510. 

 

Yeah, with the 510 set-up I did, I just used a block of wood to bleed them...  😋

 

 

[demo243]

First Drive!!!!

 

Got it Reg'ed today... and got screwed on taxes... but felt great to drive it!

 

 

 

 Still lots of work to do - and its only "legal" for 7 days in the safety test "grace period"... then it will actually need a sticker which it won't pass for...    But first drive was a success! Engine felt strong and good, temps held nicely, brakes work. Speedo was way off cause of the much smaller wheels and no tach... so happy I have speed huts in route.    

 

Also added a few resurrected classics emblems- overall very happy with the quality for the $. Its those little things that really make the difference though - just adding the pillar and hood emblems cleans the car up that much more. Stilling deciding what emblem to put on the spoiler.    

 

Thinking I might call this one the Street Fighter Z - the black and silver/grey really reminds me of a fighter jet - TBD.

Edited May 29, 2023 by demo243

[demo243]

Posting this here, mostly as a reminder to myself, but might help someone else... I still need to confirm. 

 

After doing some digging on the rear disc conversion - it looks like they might be 240sx rear calipers. It also looks like the calipers might be swapped driver and passenger. I think if I switch them it will move the e-brake arms more centered in the wheel well, so they should then clear the body. In doing so the the brake lines will need to come off so I can put the hard lines back where they are supposed to be- just need to find some clips. Might have a few kicking around hopefully. 

 

TBD

[demo243]

Well I did a thing today...

 

With the long weekend ahead and still being within my safety inspection grace period I had planned on leaving the car alone and driving it a few times....

 

But... After taking it out this afternoon I decided it was time to just get to work on getting all the lights working. 

 

So--- I pulled the dash. 

 

 

 

It was actually pretty simple and really didn't take that long since I had already pulled the heater and blower out. The biggest issue was lack of disconnects from the previous re-wire (admittedly something I am guilty of on the wiring for the 510... on the 620 I built a separate dash harness with full disconnect) and because of that I ended up just cutting out the fuse panel.

 

 

Feels very wasteful... but too late now. Plus I wanted to keep as much of the rest of the harness as complete as possible- thinking that maybe I might want to re-use some of the harder to run wires (doubtful... but TBD).

 

I will likely re-use the POs relay box for the High/Low and Fuel Pump - but based on the Z diagrams I can see so far, I don't think I will use a relay for the taillights.. TBD but I feel like it introduces an extra level of complication.

 

 

At this point I know I should go in and do some more clean up - ie weld up the fire wall and paint the rest black... but in consideration of limiting the downtown I am going to skip that. The plan is to set the dash up with a fully disconnect able harness so it will be easier to remove later on. 

Edited May 27, 2023 by demo243

[demo243]

The plan moving forward is to get the car running as soon as possible (makes it that much easier to move around) with the following steps

 

-Strip the rest of the wiring - deciding what if any to keep. 

-Mount the kickpanels and fuse panel

-Make some block off plates for the "fresh air vents" - Still TBD on this - might be nice to actually have these maybe? 

-Make a block off for the blower motor air intake.

-Mount the new vintage dash to the frame and put the dash back in the car.

-Wire up the ignition so I can at least start it and move it. 

 

I know this means I will have to wire and install the speed hut gauges while the dash is already in the car, but I don't think that will be too much of an issue. The rest of the wiring I am thinking will be simpler to run with the dash in place for wire lengths and what not. Then I can build in the disconnect or go back in and cut and add it in.

 

 

 

 

[demo243]

A few more ramblings... mostly on the wiring of the lights

 

Headlights-

-Power from fuse to hi and low relays 

-Then use combo switch to turn on and switch between them?  

-Headlight combo switch is powered - used to power the hi/low relays

-Hi/low stalk is grounded -- used to trigger grounds on the relay

 

Park lights- 

-Powered through the combo switch 

-Need to figure out tail light interactions with Park/Hazard/Turn signals.

 

Tail lights- 

- Like the park lights powered through the combo switch, but need to figure out their interaction with the hazards/signals

Need to study the Z wiring diagram a little better- trying to find a hi-res copy of the '73 color diagram but not having much luck. Don't want to wait for an ordered on to arrive

 

[demo243]

Long and frustrating couple days... Did not get nearly as much done as I had hoped.

 

Got all the old wiring stripped. Ended up pulling it all. Left most of the pigtails for reference... but the most important one... took the ignition one apart to try and re-use the connector, but I don't have the right spades for it... but then I lost what was spliced together...

 

Anyway. Pulled all the wiring. Fixed the ground wire on the pass park light. Then decided to remove the bumper - the rubber is disintegrating and will cover anything with black in just the slightest of touches... So its gone for now. I like the look of the rear bumper, but don't want to pay for a replacement. I may try and pull the rubber off an paint it black.

 

Then I started working on the wiring. Got the alternator, starter and main battery wires set up. Started working on the ignition switch and have just been stumped... The car will turn over- but it will not fire. Rigged up the fuel pump so there is fuel, and with carbs there should be some in the bowl anyway... But won't fire. I checked the coil wire from the ignition switch and it has power in the start position but not the on position. I know I spliced a couple of the wires together on the 510 and 620 but can't remember which ones... and they are all taped up on the 510. So I need to do some more digging.  

 

Tomorrow I just want to get it running and then be done. It will likely be in back burned for a few weeks till everything else comes in and I have time to mess with it again.  

Edited May 29, 2023 by demo243

[demo243]

Got it started!

 

Fresh day and fresh mind. Found something late last night to sort out this ignition switch wiring.

 

 

Also figured out my other dump mistake- in pulling stuff off I pulled the tach wire off the coil, and in wiring it back up I grounded that wire… oops. 
 

Fixed the ignition, removed the ground from the coil and it fired up!

[demo243]

In planning for the rest of the wiring - one of the major things I need is hazard lights.

- something I also need to add into the 510…

 

For the Z I still have the stock switch so I could use that… but it’s old and I’m not going for a perfect restoration so I am thinking about using a “modern” push button switch.  The American Autowire panel comes with a signal out (flasher) terminal and a hazard out (flasher) terminal. Since it’s a single pole switch I need to isolate the left and right sides to splice it in. I was thinking diodes… but since I’ll need a relay anyway, I started thinking 2 might be easier. “Hazard” switch activates both relays, but one powers the left side and the other the right side- keeping each side separate.

 

[demo243]

15 hours ago, demo243 said:

In planning for the rest of the wiring - one of the major things I need is hazard lights.

- something I also need to add into the 510…

 

For the Z I still have the stock switch so I could use that… but it’s old and I’m not going for a perfect restoration so I am thinking about using a “modern” push button switch.  The American Autowire panel comes with a signal out (flasher) terminal and a hazard out (flasher) terminal. Since it’s a single pole switch I need to isolate the left and right sides to splice it in. I was thinking diodes… but since I’ll need a relay anyway, I started thinking 2 might be easier. “Hazard” switch activates both relays, but one powers the left side and the other the right side- keeping each side separate.

 

Well this seemed like a good idea, until I looked closer at the tail light wiring... 

I was planning on divorcing the signals from the brake/tails (Euro/JDM style- eventually planning to swap the tails to an amber signal) - but in my reading neglected to realize that that would leave me with only 1 brake light per side. A few quick internet searches and I found some replacement sockets that are supposed to fit the Z tail lights. So the plan is to re-wire the tail lights to have the following layout. 

 

Driver side from the back of the car

 

Brake/Tail - Brake/Tail

Signal - Reverse

I doing so I am also going to remove the brake signal from the turn signal stalk. So the stock turn signal stalk will do turns and high/low. The new hazard switch w/ two relays will tie into the L&R turn signal circuits to provide hazards. The combo switch will handle tail/park lights and headlights. Brakes will run from the switch at the pedal, all the way back in their own feed wire.

I am updating to LED rear bulbs - if they are successful Ill update the marker lights and front signals to them as well (AAW Panel has an LED flasher unit it it). 

 

In "simplifying" (More like complicating, but removing functions from the stock hazard/turn/combo switches) the switch wiring- I am also looking to remove voltage from the switches, so I plan to run relays for High/Low Headlights, Tail/Park Lights, and L/R Hazards. As of right now the standard turn signals will still run through the stalk (It looks like stock power runs through the switch, so not much different, just lower volt. since it will be LEDs) - I don't see a need for additional relays for this; but I guess the truly proper thing would be to add them in, seems overkill though.


 

 

Edited May 31, 2023 by demo243

[iceman510]

A lot of work you have dived into, but it will pay off with a great foundation for reliability.

 

I don't get your comment about removing the brake signal from the turn signal stalk.  Not familiar really with Z wiring, so how does the turn signal stalk affect the brake lights?