gkw619’s 521

[gkw619]

21 minutes ago, d.p said:

Look at thread for swapping a KA above. There are a couple guys that sell harnesses.  @Icehouse sells a kit IIRC. 

Ok thanks. I’m not going EFI since imma run mikuni carbs, I was more speaking in terms of just the normal wiring. But I’ll reach out to him too!

[banzai510(hainz)]

dont pullout the body harness.!!!! Dont do it!!!!!!!! if it works then your good.lights ect.... clean the connections

 

You use Icehouse KA SR relay box to power the engine harness for the KA.

 

 

I seen to many 521 die a KA death.  Only BIGTANKER on here has actually the master of this and more sure he is over 20K on his 521

 

you got 11 posts Im very leary here but its your truck. most never make it part 100 posts and we never hear from ya again.Only to see it in a FOR SALE section some where

 

Edited June 8, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

LOL truer words have never been spoken.  

[gkw619]

I hear what you’re saying but it’s going to happen. I will not use Icehouse because I’m not running EFI. I’m running mukuni 44’s. 
 

this truck is staying with me forever, it’s something my kids are helping me with. There won’t be a resale. And I’ve already started on build a new harness. You guys willl just have to wait and see. It won’t be as extreme as BIGTANKER, but she will be a dime!

[datzenmike]

So how are you going to fire the spark plugs if running carburetors????

[gkw619]

I’ll will be using an electronic distributor, without ballast, and I’m able to use an oil gear from an L engine to run it. No EFI, I know it’s a bit different and maybe dated but it’s what I want from te build. Mikuni 44 on and kae24e I think it’s just different and what I’m looking for. 

[datzenmike]

Yes an L series drive spindle and an EI distributor. This must be a KA24DE from a truck?

[gkw619]

No it not. It’s a ka24e. From an 89 240sx. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

whos going to make this carbed manifold for the Mikunies?? or where.i Havent seen one in a long time. Last one was a 12v KA from a truck if I remember right.

 

I cost think the cost greatly outweighs the being different part

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

16 hours ago, gkw619 said:

I’ll will be using an electronic distributor, without ballast, and I’m able to use an oil gear from an L engine to run it. No EFI, I know it’s a bit different and maybe dated but it’s what I want from te build. Mikuni 44 on and kae24e I think it’s just different and what I’m looking for. 

I have done that before, but long ago. I can't remember which spindle you need. We used a stock single point 510 distributor on the one I'm thinking of.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

whos going to make this carbed manifold for the Mikunies?? or where.i Havent seen one in a long time. Last one was a 12v KA from a truck if I remember right.

 

I cost think the cost greatly outweighs the being different part

There are 12 valve Mikuni manifolds. They are not hard to find.

[banzai510(hainz)]

1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

There are 12 valve Mikuni manifolds. They are not hard to find.

been a long time since I seen one bet they want 200$ then $1000 for the carbs

shit I sold mine 2 sets for 1200 one was brand new. Didnt need them.

 

2 sets of the one on the right.Nissan Mororsport set up big port 44

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

44s are getting sooooo hard to find. Mike Malone just scoured eastern europe for buildable cores. He's selling them for about $1000 each now.

[gkw619]

Yes the mikuni’s are definitely hard to come. But I have a pair of mikuni’s 44 already. Got them from Japan, and now being rebuilt by Kyusha House. I have a matchbox distributor but think of getting a new Hot spark one.

 

As for the manifold still looking I know they’re out there, so if anyone has seen a one I would appreciate the help in sourcing one. I do know Troy Ermish makes them too. 
 

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

23 minutes ago, gkw619 said:

matchbox distributor but think of getting a new Hot spark one.

A good matchbox be better, the HotSpark is a Chinese Pertronix clone designed to use the ballast and the stock point coil

[datzenmike]

Hot spark needs 1.5 ohm coil and 1.5 ohm ballast or a 3 ohm coil. If you run a 1.5 ohm coil without ballast you'll just burn the Hot Spark out. An EI coil is even worse at 0.8 to 1.0 ohms.

 

Definitely get an L series EI distributor. All '78 L series Datsuns had the remote igniter that you can substitute an HEI module from a GM and all '79 and '80 were true 'matchbox. The EI distributors will handle the lower resistance EI coils and have higher output than the Hot Spark.

[d.p]

Taka did my carbs as well, make sure to check all your jets are tight. I had one loose in the bottom which I was fighting for days trying to figure out.  Only found out when I took one apart to check to see if it was tight.   

 

Edited June 9, 2023 by d.p

[gkw619]

43 minutes ago, d.p said:

Taka did my carbs as well, make sure to check all your jets are tight. I had one loose in the bottom which I was fighting for days trying to figure out.  Only found out when I took one apart to check to see if it was tight.   

 

Will do. Thanks for the heads up!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 6/9/2023 at 8:12 AM, gkw619 said:

Yes the mikuni’s are definitely hard to come. But I have a pair of mikuni’s 44 already. Got them from Japan, and now being rebuilt by Kyusha House. I have a matchbox distributor but think of getting a new Hot spark one.

 

As for the manifold still looking I know they’re out there, so if anyone has seen a one I would appreciate the help in sourcing one. I do know Troy Ermish makes them too. 
 

 

 

 

Get in touch with Mike Malone. He has manifolds.

[mrbigtanker]

On 6/9/2023 at 8:12 AM, gkw619 said:

Yes the mikuni’s are definitely hard to come. But I have a pair of mikuni’s 44 already. Got them from Japan, and now being rebuilt by Kyusha House. I have a matchbox distributor but think of getting a new Hot spark one.

 

As for the manifold still looking I know they’re out there, so if anyone has seen a one I would appreciate the help in sourcing one. I do know Troy Ermish makes them too. 
 

 

 

 

The Troy Ermish one is billet with a bigger port forgot the size. Mikuni matching manifold will be hard to find.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The billet one is a copy of the basic BRE shape. I think it's cool that he's having them made, but I don't love the billet look with all the machining marks on it.

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The billet one is a copy of the basic BRE shape. I think it's cool that he's having them made, but I don't love the billet look with all the machining marks on it.

You can make them roughed up like the cast manifold style.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

 

22 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

You can make them roughed up like the cast manifold style.

You're right. It's not difficult.

 

Cheaters have been caught with ported cylinder heads. To try and hide their crimes, they go through the ports and rough them up to look as-cast. But people who know can spot it.

[gkw619]

Looking for some advice again. As I get ready to rebuild the engine I’ve thinking to go with arp fasteners, a mech stage 3 cam from O&J, with mech lifters, springs, their head gasket and getting the head ported & polished. 
 

but for piston I’m thinking about arias pistons with a 10.7 comp ratio, carillo rods. Any suggestion? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Why Arias? They have been around a long time, and they make good pistons, but last I saw, their designs were not as modern as others like JE or Wiseco.

 

Unless you're racing or building massive boost, you don't need Carrillo rods. There are other brands of H beam rods for Datsun/Nissan, but you have to hunt them down. Stock 6" rods would work fine, with ARP rod bolts.

 

ARP fasteners? Where? For what it's worth, I hate, HATE head studs. They are completely unnecessary and make head removal a pain. Main studs? Fine, but even those are overkill. Late model L motor head bolts and main bolts are more than enough, but if you want a bit extra insurance, o-ring the deck of the block, and run some 10.9 internal hex cap screws for the main caps.

 

10.7:1 for the street is a tad high. I like to stay around 10:1, then you can run pump gas and with 32 degrees of timing.