wayno Posted July 19, 2022 Report Share Posted July 19, 2022 I never throw anything away in case I need it, I do not know if radiator hoses can be found. This is what my early 320 hose had before the water pump came with the hole for the heater core hose fitting. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 (edited) These are the NAPA hoses that have been running on ours for eight years. A little minor trimming on one or both ends might be needed. This isn't the 'Voice of Experience' as I wasn't around where these early Nissan vehicles were being built and sold but, My guess is that the majority of these pickups came out of the factory without most of the optional accessories such as heaters, radios, fog lights, back-up lights, and others. In many instances, the dealer would add these on to satisfy the customer's taste and pocketbook. The fitting was added to the lower radiator hose when a heater was installed by the dealer or owner. Economics and marketing and many more facets of daily life were much different sixty years ago. One didn't just take the old hose off and acquire a custom hose made for adding the heater fitting. Existing items were modified or refurbished back then as hardware came at a premium and labor was cheap; now neither one is. When is the last time you know of a dealership completely rebuilding an engine or transmission ?? A little individual mechanic in a dealer bay is much more expensive when utilized to do a complete labor/time intensive rebuild than a robot or union assembler back at the factory. Edited July 20, 2022 by difrangia 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 And Gates hoses, courtesy of Andy in KS: 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 @whiteaverson- seems like the simplest way would be to use the plugged hole in the water pump. I don't love the tee'd hoses. They tend to come apart at the tee. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 11 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: @whiteaverson- seems like the simplest way would be to use the plugged hole in the water pump. I don't love the tee'd hoses. They tend to come apart at the tee. Right, Matt. Only justification for the fitting in the lower hose that I could fathom is someone wanting to retain complete originality. Imagine driving to a car show a hundred miles away and walking back up to your little pickup with a green puddle under the engine; on a Sunday evening. The water pump port for for the heater hose most likely came with the J-Series engine in the 520 & 411 sedans. 1 Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted July 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 Thank you all for the suggestions and hose part numbers. I'll have to locate a fitting for the water pump but I think I will do that. The original tee'd hose looks like the one @wayno has pictured and its disintegrating. The brass tee I have has me concerned about leaks. I saved the fuel filter fitting. I already feel wrong throwing away factory parts on any car but especially on something that is lacking part availability like these trucks. I did cut and flare the remaining fuel line on the tank in order to hopefully prevent any leaks. 1 Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted July 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2022 Alright, so a little progress the last few days. Ordered the lower radiator hose. On the fitting in the water pump. Can anyone confirm the thread for that port? I did some research and only found 3/8 NPT mentioned but I thought the fuel filter fitting was NPT and it turned out to be BSP. Next, on the continued fuel system work. I bolted on the fuel sender and flared the remaining fuel tube for the soft line. Then, loosely hung the tank and connected the fuel hose. Need to connect the fuel filler and vent line and replace the gasket and element in the fuel filter and the fuel system should be done? Another random question, the tube for the vacuum advance, I believe, isn't connected. It looks like the little bracket should have been on the stud near it. Is that a head stud? Can I remove the nut and put the bracket on safely? And I also installed all the cab mounts just so I could cross something off my large checklist. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 27, 2022 Report Share Posted July 27, 2022 It would be quicker to tap the threads in the water pump than it would be to source a BSPT fitting. If 3/8 is close, go buy a 3/8 NPT tap and run it in until the fitting fits. Easy peasy. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted July 27, 2022 Report Share Posted July 27, 2022 Unless I'm mistaken from the pics above, his water pump has the port with an allen head plug in it; just need to remove the plug, clean the threads a bit, & put hose fitting in. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 27, 2022 Report Share Posted July 27, 2022 Right, I think he's wondering what thread it is. Probably BPST, but can easily be "cleaned up" to NPT. Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted August 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2022 Alright, a small amount of progress again. Lower radiator hose is now done and I added a fitting to the water pump for the heater hose. And I have the fuel system basically wrapped up besides confirming the fuel pump and carb are good to go. That will probably have to wait until its time for start up. Got the fuel tank and fuel filler in. And the fuel lines are all in place. I got a new cork gasket for the fuel filter but the only element I know will fit the bowl is the OEM part and I haven't ordered that. So I think the clutch slave and lines is next on my checklist. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 25, 2022 Report Share Posted August 25, 2022 Looking good. I wonder if that lower hose will fit my Sprite race car. Since I don't have a heater in the car (obviously), I also don't want the unused nipple poking out of the top of the hose. Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 Tana Bryan has some of the OEM fuel filter elements you're looking for: vindats@yahoo.com 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 That filter has to be a standard part. Those were so common back in that era, I can't believe that the element is specific to 320s, or Datsuns even. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 Matt, there is a universal filter available currently, at 'Tractor Supply and probably other places. I have the P.N. archived if someone needs it and can't find it. Might even have a pic of the modern filter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 I was gonna say, there's probably a tractor that uses that same filter. Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted August 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2022 I'll have to look into the filter. @difrangia if you have a part number that would be good to know. I looked for a while and couldn't find any that seemed to have the rubber gasket at the top. Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted August 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 Rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder this week. Used my very precise cylinder hone. And assembled the slave cylinder. Installed with the new hose. And installed the clutch hard line. I tried to bleed the system but my little mityvac vacuum bleeder doesn't seem to be capable of bleeding a system on its own. Or its like the brakes and the master cylinder has a leak somewhere. I'll have to find someone to help me bleed it. One more system off the list anyway. I'm moving to rebuilding the heater box. Any advice or help is appreciated. Once that is done and the cooling system is tied together it should just be wiring to get it started (hopefully). Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 31, 2022 Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 Take the core into a radiator shop. They may be able to fix it. On the bleeding - A clutch system can bleed itself by leaving the bleeder open and letting gravity take over, but yes, you need to get the fluid moving first. Since the fluid first has to rise above the master to get across the engine bay, you need to push the fluid (instead of pulling it)to get it moving. You can do it by yourself by cracking the bleeder (at the slave) and slowly pressing the pedal to the floor and then slowly back up. If that doesn't work, try a more firm and quicker push. Do this a few times, with the bleeder open, and the fluid will start moving. Quote Link to comment
whiteaverson Posted September 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2022 So, getting the frustrating little things that have historically caused me to give up on projects. Heater core is cracked in several places and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I ended up just looping the heater hose for now. I just want to get what's needed to start it at this point. Knowing it runs will be motivating. Of course, bleeding the clutch revealed that the bleeder valve is leaking for some reason. I added some teflon tape to the threads but I'm not convinced it will help and now I can't seem to get it to bleed again. In reality, it should just need wiring to run but of course the battery isn't taking a charge so I probably need to replace that. So, I ended up just doing some easy things to feel like progress was being made. A couple parts weren't installed in the crazy shift linkage. Got those installed. I also installed the speedo cable. My list of tasks is a bit shorter anyway. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 16, 2022 Report Share Posted September 16, 2022 If looping the heater hoses be sure to stuff something in the hose to prevent circulation. This water is not cooled by the heater and is not going through the radiator, it's hot water bypassing the radiator altogether and this puts a strain on the cooling system. Definitely avoid during warmer weather. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 17, 2022 Report Share Posted September 17, 2022 Some guys plug the heater hose ports, and I have it this way on my street Sprite, but it is best to loop them in a way to help the coolant flow. I've seen a couple different methods, but this pic below shows a typical A series race setup. The B series engine, which is basically identical to the Datsun J motor has the port in a different spot on the cylinder head, but the routing is mostly the same. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted September 17, 2022 Report Share Posted September 17, 2022 Matt, How bout a pic of the Sprite. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 17, 2022 Report Share Posted September 17, 2022 2 hours ago, difrangia said: Matt, How bout a pic of the Sprite. I have not had time to work on it at all this year, which I expected, but we did get an MG midget race car. Here's a pic of that. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
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