Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 27, 2022 Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 I thought so. Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 On 4/23/2022 at 7:12 PM, EDM620 said: The column itself is very basic and the clamshell fits over the ignition. My ignition was obviously not attached either. here’s my column. No place for an ignition. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 First mod done. 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I'm thinking the column might have been swapped?? The 620 column cover is this: That's all I have left but the ignition switch would have been right there. Regardless, if otherwise things are working then mount your ignition so it's solid. 1 Quote Link to comment
620slodat Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 I have a 1973 620 that my dad bought brand new, and I know it hasn't been messed with. I don't think the ignition switch is mounted to the steering column, just the plastic shell is supporting the switch (going by memory as it has been several years since I looked at it). The metal column tube, and the steering rod on the inside, does have the cut out for the steering lock, and I tried a full lock on a pedestal and it fit. What I'm saying is that the ignition switch should work either way. Maybe the earlier ones did not have the switch on a pedestal as I don't remember dad's pickup having the steering lock. Don 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 Exactly. My '78 was that way. The clam shell holds the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted June 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 It’s been awhile since I worked on my truck. On 6/24 Friday I got the truck up and running. Didn’t need much honestly. Just bought a new battery, cleaned up the terminals, and bolted up the starter properly (it had only one bolt and it was loose). After I removed the self locking nut that holds the companion flange. The PO welded it on due to the threads being messed up. So I used a die to make a new thread and fixed it. I then connected the driveshaft. Then I had to unstick the rear passenger drum brake. I spent all day working on the truck. I learned how to use a tap and die set. I learned a little about drum brakes. Haven’t took it out for a test drive yet. I want to make sure the brakes are good. But overall I’m still stoked that I managed to get the truck running all on my own. Totally forgot to take pics. I was in the zone all day. I’m going to try and document more! 3 Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2022 I recently drove the truck for the first time. The brakes felt spongy. So I assumed I had to adjust the drum shoes all around. But to my pleasant surprise I have disc brakes up front! How? What conversion did the PO do? I’m looking but I can’t find anything. I also thought I had a different suspension setup. Is my setup stock? I’m thinking not. HELP!!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2022 Report Share Posted July 3, 2022 Your '75 body was swapped onto either a '78-'79 620 frame or an '80-'82 720 frame. Both of these had the disc brakes shown. Use a wire brush and clean the top of the passenger side frame between the engine mount and the alternator. Does it match the car number stamped on the plate screwed on the drivers side inner fender? above the coil. Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2022 13 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Your '75 body was swapped onto either a '78-'79 620 frame or an '80-'82 720 frame. Both of these had the disc brakes shown. Use a wire brush and clean the top of the passenger side frame between the engine mount and the alternator. Does it match the car number stamped on the plate screwed on the drivers side inner fender? above the coil. Wtf! Lol how bad is this? what are the positives? Off the top I have disc brakes and ball joint suspension. Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2022 Don’t know if this helps but I took a pic of the front as well Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2022 Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 No real downside but the frame is not going to match the registration. For all you know the frame was stolen 40 years ago. Seriously I wouldn't worry about it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 @datzenmike how would I go about figuring out what suspension/brake parts to replace/repair? would I get that info from the vin on the frame? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2022 Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 The vin will say HL620 310001 and up to maybe HL430000* if a '78-'79 620. If a 720 I don't know but won't say 620 for sure. It's either an early 720 or a late 620. Disc brake parts will be the same, probably the rear drum brakes too. Knowing for sure which would help for suspension parts and steering. *the '78 short bed starts with car number 310001 to 375000, so about 64,000 units that year. For '79 say another 64,000??? just a wild guess I don't have the exact numbers. If it turns out the be a 720 I can look the number up to find aprox. build date but it will be before 11'82. My guess is it's a 620 or an '80 720 because they were the last year the L20B was used and that would be the easiest body swap. Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 @datzenmike Both my body and frame vin numbers match up. Good news, but, I’m still confused lol. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2022 Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 It could mean the the tag in the engine bay was swapped to keep it matching. Easy enough to do. Do you have the number??? Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 @datzenmike HL620024471 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2022 Report Share Posted July 4, 2022 Interesting, that a '75. There were 90,000 made short wheelbase regular cab so # 24,471, assuming the monthly production amounts were similar would be approximately middle of November of '74. Look on the drive's door jam for the build date. Someone went to a lot of trouble grafting disc brakes onto a '75 truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted July 5, 2022 Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 6 hours ago, datzenmike said: Interesting, that a '75. There were 90,000 made short wheelbase regular cab so # 24,471, assuming the monthly production amounts were similar would be approximately middle of November of '74. Look on the drive's door jam for the build date. Someone went to a lot of trouble grafting disc brakes onto a '75 truck. There was a time when grafting a 79 ball joint front end to an earlier truck sometimes seemed reasonable, it was difficult to source all the bushings and the kingpins, most everyone thought disc brakes and ball joints were better and there was also no internet and people in far away places that knew all the secrets putting them out there for everyone to see on webpages, those trucks weren't so old making the time and parts worthwhile to take the time to mod them up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 @datzenmikebuild date is 3/75 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 5, 2022 Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 Yeah it was a guess at best. Is there any obvious welding where the upper and lower control arms join the frame? Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted July 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2022 she’s back on the streets. Easiest registration ever. 4 Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted September 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2022 My truck was running okay once I got it to start. Drove it a few times. Then it sat for a little. Tried to start it up again. Nothing. It wouldn’t stay on. I figured the carb jets was clogged. So I bought a new Weber 32/36 dgev. I wanted one from the get go anyways. Now my truck will hardly stay on and will not accelerate. The truck has no power. I can get it to start and idle for a bit but it dies shortly after. Fuel pressure seems to be around 4 according to a pressure gauge installed inline by the PO. No vacuum leaks that I know of. I’ve tested it by spraying carb cleaner near vacuum sources. The truck has a new battery, spark plugs, wires. I’ve also tried messing with the timing and it seems to be around 10 degrees with the advance timing light set to 0. All this was tested with the truck warmed up. Thought I had tuned the carb to get the truck running but no luck. Where should I start? A lot of forum postings suggest to tune the carb while the truck is warm. But I can hardly get it to stay on. HELP! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2022 Report Share Posted September 3, 2022 Where's the vacuum advance hose going to??? ... and where is the hose to the left of it going?????? Quote Link to comment
Bas90501 Posted September 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2022 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: Where's the vacuum advance hose going to??? ... and where is the hose to the left of it going?????? The hose from the dizzy goes into carb. The hose on the left loops into itself. I’m assuming it was part of the emissions stuff. Probably supposed to go onto the air cleaner assembly. Quote Link to comment
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