Jump to content

New member/620 build.


Bas90501

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm thinking the column might have been swapped?? The 620 column cover is this:

IMG_8756.thumb.jpg.f7a508d161932b9f8f0ec894da1cc128.jpg

 

IMG_8757.thumb.jpg.a35e85b39e45db5673189462e8889a03.jpg

 

That's all I have left but the ignition switch would have been right there.

Regardless, if otherwise things are working  then mount your ignition so it's solid.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I have a 1973 620 that my dad bought brand new, and I know it hasn't been messed with. I don't think the ignition switch is mounted to the steering column, just the plastic shell is supporting the switch (going by memory as it has been several years since I looked at it). The metal column tube, and the steering rod on the inside, does have the cut out for the steering lock, and I tried a full lock on a pedestal and it fit. What I'm saying is that the ignition switch should work either way. Maybe the earlier ones did not have the switch on a pedestal as I don't remember dad's pickup having the steering lock.

 

Don

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

 It’s been awhile since I worked on my truck. On 6/24 Friday I got the truck up and running. Didn’t need much honestly. Just bought a new battery, cleaned up the terminals, and bolted up the starter properly (it had only one bolt and it was loose). After I removed the self locking nut that holds the companion flange. The PO welded it on due to the threads being messed up. So I used a die to make a new thread and fixed it. I then connected the driveshaft. Then I had to unstick the rear passenger drum brake. I spent all day working on the truck. I learned how to use a tap and die set. I learned a little about drum brakes. Haven’t took it out for a test drive yet. I want to make sure the brakes are good. But overall I’m still stoked that I managed to get the truck running all on my own.

 

Totally forgot to take pics. I was in the zone all day. I’m going to try and document more! 

  • Like 3
Link to comment

I recently drove the truck for the first time. The brakes felt spongy. So I assumed I had to adjust the drum shoes all around. But to my pleasant surprise I have disc brakes up front! How? What conversion did the PO do? I’m looking but I can’t find anything. I also thought I had a different suspension setup. Is my setup stock? I’m thinking not. HELP!!!! 01-ACA895-9-D29-45-EA-B329-F3-DE97-FCD51B69-D6-F49-8-EB4-4-B36-BB21-B2-F23661-CDEC09360-D-242-A-4-F2-A-ACB3-2-B9-A8-BFB5FE2-FFCA4-D81-E-4-FFB-8299-D3-C55-F2-EF2

Link to comment

Your '75 body was swapped onto either a '78-'79 620 frame or an '80-'82 720 frame. Both of these had the disc brakes shown.

 

Use a wire brush and clean the top of the passenger side frame between the engine mount and the alternator. Does it match the car number stamped on the plate screwed on the drivers side inner fender? above the coil.

Link to comment
13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Your '75 body was swapped onto either a '78-'79 620 frame or an '80-'82 720 frame. Both of these had the disc brakes shown.

 

Use a wire brush and clean the top of the passenger side frame between the engine mount and the alternator. Does it match the car number stamped on the plate screwed on the drivers side inner fender? above the coil.

Wtf! Lol 

how bad is this? 
what are the positives? Off the top I have disc brakes and ball joint suspension. 

Link to comment

The vin will say HL620 310001 and up to maybe HL430000* if a '78-'79 620. If a 720 I don't know but won't say 620 for sure. It's either an early 720 or a late 620. Disc brake parts will be the same, probably the rear drum brakes too. Knowing for sure which would help for suspension parts and steering.

 

*the '78 short bed starts with car number 310001 to 375000, so about 64,000 units that year. For '79 say another 64,000??? just a wild guess I don't have the exact numbers.

 

If it turns out the be a 720 I can look the number up to find aprox. build date but it will be before 11'82. My guess is it's a 620 or an '80 720 because they were the last year the L20B was used and that would be the easiest body swap.

Link to comment

Interesting, that a '75. There were 90,000 made short wheelbase regular cab so # 24,471, assuming the monthly production amounts were similar would be approximately middle of November of '74.

 

Look on the drive's door jam for the build date.

 

 

Someone went to a lot of trouble grafting disc brakes onto a '75 truck.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Interesting, that a '75. There were 90,000 made short wheelbase regular cab so # 24,471, assuming the monthly production amounts were similar would be approximately middle of November of '74.

 

Look on the drive's door jam for the build date.

 

 

Someone went to a lot of trouble grafting disc brakes onto a '75 truck.

 

There was a time when grafting a 79 ball joint front end to an earlier truck sometimes seemed reasonable, it was difficult to source all the bushings and the kingpins, most everyone thought disc brakes and ball joints were better and there was also no internet and people in far away places that knew all the secrets putting them out there for everyone to see on webpages, those trucks weren't so old making the time and parts worthwhile to take the time to mod them up.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

My truck was running okay once I got it to start. Drove it a few times. Then it sat for a little. Tried to start it up again. Nothing. It wouldn’t stay on. I figured the carb jets was clogged. So I bought a new Weber 32/36 dgev. I wanted one from the get go anyways.   Now my truck will hardly stay on and will not accelerate. The truck has no power. I can get it to start and idle for a bit but it dies shortly after. Fuel pressure seems to be around 4 according to a pressure gauge installed inline by the PO. No vacuum leaks that I know of. I’ve tested it by spraying carb cleaner near vacuum sources. The truck has a new battery, spark plugs, wires. I’ve also tried messing with the timing and it seems to be around 10 degrees with the advance timing light set to 0. All this was tested with the truck warmed up. Thought I had tuned the carb to get the truck running but no luck. Where should I start? A lot of forum postings suggest to tune the carb while the truck is warm. But I can hardly get it to stay on. HELP! B1-B33-CEB-40-DC-4247-9-DDF-BF8-B09-CE81
B1-B33-CEB-40-DC-4247-9-DDF-BF8-B09-CE81
7-C2-E19-E4-4165-4482-82-C0-B9-D8-AFAD2-
EEBD15-E7-7-E46-47-C8-A60-C-DC429-D93738

Link to comment
8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

7-C2-E19-E4-4165-4482-82-C0-B9-D8-AFAD2-

 

Where's the vacuum advance hose going to???

 

... and where is the hose to the left of it going??????

The hose from the dizzy goes into carb. The hose on the left loops into itself. I’m assuming it was part of the emissions stuff. Probably supposed to go onto the air cleaner assembly. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.