Crashtd420 Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 1 hour ago, thisismatt said: Looks like there are some Honda/Acura with that ID, but they are way more expensive I saw those, I think they have really wide mounting points also.... that's why I liked the Mazda one.... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 19 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I saw those, I think they have really wide mounting points also.... that's why I liked the Mazda one.... Yeah, I was thinking of the cannibalizing option if you can just fine the right ID and rubber OD Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 1 hour ago, thisismatt said: Yeah, I was thinking of the cannibalizing option if you can just fine the right ID and rubber OD I'm sure that can be done if needed, I really thought I had something a bit more bolt in... since I have the help of TSEKC up in New Hampshire I'm just trying to take this one step further... Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 I feel like aluminum spacer blocks are easily made. If we can figure out the heights and bolt spacing, I wouldn’t mind making some. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 39 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I feel like aluminum spacer blocks are easily made. If we can figure out the heights and bolt spacing, I wouldn’t mind making some. That's about the idea.... Part is getting delivered Thursday so I'll know more by the end of the week.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 alright alright boys, lets make this happen so I can eventually crawl under my truck and swear at how hard it is to get to some of those carrier barring and drive shaft bolts to swap this mfer in. Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 keep us updated 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 1 hour ago, gene knight said: keep us updated New part just arrived today, TSEKC should be checking it out an making the comparison soon.... Quote Link to comment
jaredperry Posted February 4, 2022 Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Hello Fellow Ratsun members, I ran into this hard to find replacement issue with my carrier bearing as I found it to all be out of service while in the process of my frame off restoration. I quickly came to find that the bearing was NLA, both bushing and bearing, and with little to no viable solutions to the problem. After I had dropped the full driveshaft off at the shop, and a bit of research, the solution was to use the following components: Qty 1, Part# 3103-24, Trans Yoke Qty, 1, Part#2-28-277, Tube Yoke Qty, 1, Part# 5-1310X, U-Joint Kit Qty, 2, Part# 1251-22, U Joint Qty, 1, Part# 2680-10, Center Support The center support dust shields had to be milled down to allow for the drive shaft to slip in to keep the OEM length and access for the rear flange bolts. The center mounting holes are within the OE mounting range as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2022 Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Sooo, does that mean we could just use the 2680-10? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Looks like it's from the earlier Mazda b1600.... Did this change the centerline height at all? This also seems hard to find , similar to my Volvo one.... I am hoping the one for the Mazda b2000 works because it's easier to get and is on newer Mazda like the 323 I believe.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Just some pictures about the Mazda b2000 carrier bearing.... So far so good.... I will detail everything with possible part number and everything when we are done... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 The biggest thing is the carrier has some extra seals that need to be removed.... but the bearing inside is sealed so it shouldn't matter.... Other thing is we wanted was to add a couple spacers before and after the bearing for proper alignment... Looks like I can get what we need from Mcmaster-car.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Fyi it has not been pressed on fully in these pictures so keep that in mind looking at the picture's.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Just a couple pictures as proof this setup will work.... I'm still going over a couple details with TSEKC so I can do a proper write up .... and he has to make or find something for the height spacers.. I'm working on that too.. Again the hope is to able to supply information for available part for purchase to make this work and not to have things custom made... Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Is that shown at the correct height? That’s a lot of spacer required. If those are 1-2-3” blocks, looks like 1-1/2” roughly? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 1-1/2" you say? Just head down to lowes... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-3-ft-L-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Perforated-Square-Tube/3049417 😅 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Good lord, no. I’d machine an aluminum bar with a cutout in the middle for the bearing. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, mainer311 said: Is that shown at the correct height? That’s a lot of spacer required. If those are 1-2-3” blocks, looks like 1-1/2” roughly? Its is basically 1 9/16 I believe that is needed to put the centerline height the same as factory.... It needs that amount of spacer just because of the design of the bearing and where the mounting ears are.... The spacer height shouldnt be an issue of strength with a solid block to sit on..... our intention was a 2"long ×1 1/2 wide × 1 9/16 tall blocks for either side.... I think 1 1/2 tall would be acceptable for people who didn't have the ability to machine a block. Just get an 1 1/2 square piece of metal, then use a piece of 16 gauge as a shim for that final 1/16... Small correction the 1 1/2 vs 1 9/16 height spacer made little to no difference in driveline angles ..... Edited February 5, 2022 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 10 hours ago, thisismatt said: 1-1/2" you say? Just head down to lowes... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-1-2-in-W-x-3-ft-L-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Perforated-Square-Tube/3049417 😅 Sadly it would probably work.... 10 hours ago, mainer311 said: Good lord, no. I’d machine an aluminum bar with a cutout in the middle for the bearing. Do you mean like a 1 piece cradle? I'm not sure there is enough space under the bearing for something like that.. I'm sure 2 solid blocks will be more than enough.... again trying to make this bolt on as easily as possible with nothing more than a drill and angle grinder for tools... Obviously some wrenches.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) Ok so I need to get this write up started.... I'm gonna give the brief version for anyone looking to get this underway sooner than later.... I'll follow up with pictures and some extra comments . The bearing we are using is a Dea a6017... 2 main specs... .985 (.9843) diameter bore 6.181 bolt spacing.... They Fit 79 to 87 Mazda b2000 Also 88-89 Mazda 323 1.6L (Not the turbo) The next thing needed are 2 - 2" long x1.5 wide x1.5 tall block. TSEKC used an 1/8 wall 1.5 square tube. These will be the standoffs, so you'll need to drill a 3/8 hole in the center. 2- longer 3/8-24 bolts. 2-1/4" long should cover that. with washers and lock washers... Last thing are 2 spacers.... 1" bore with a 1.5" od. 1/8 thick and 1/4 thick. I did find them through McMaster carr.... These are used to put the bearing centerline in the right location and keep clearance for things rubbing. 1/4 first Bearing, 1/8 on the spline end . Then the flange. One other notable mention is the nut that holds the flange on is a 18mmx1.5 lock nut... not sure if a nissan part number is available for that but if it needs to be replaced that the size.. The only modifications needed to the actual bearing are minor... 1st remove front seal, not a problem because the actual bearing is sealed. 2nd the rear extension needs to be cut down, easily done with a cutoff wheel, just take your time. Oh and there is a clip inside not really doing anything, it needs to be discarded.. The bearing is pressed in solid so It shouldn't be going anywhere anyhow.. 3rd the bolt hole slots need to be widen slightly to the inside... Bolt width on the datsun frame is 6.063 vs 6.181 on the bearing. More to come.... Edited February 9, 2022 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 I figure I need to get some of the pictures posted to..... To start this is the front, you can see the seal that needs to be removed... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 (edited) The rear also has a seal that needs to be removed as well as the clip inside... And then approximately 1/2 needs to be cut off the end.... From TSEKC pictures it looks like your trying to remove the entire seal mounting location down to almost where the clip is... Edited February 11, 2022 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 We were playing with the spacers thickness and location so it might be possible to retain that clip with the 1/8 space in there... Any how.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 I believe in the picture's TSEKC used a 3/8 spacer to keep the outer rubber from rubbing when the driveshaft spins... We later determined it only needed 1/4" spacer to keep clear.... Quote Link to comment
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