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Datsun 521 carrier bearing replacement option


Crashtd420

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Edit to post please read everything before ordering a part.....

 

I decided to do a quick right up about what I did to replace my 521 carrier bearing... 

I thought it's own write up might be easier to find as a search vs putting it inside the part thread...

 

So as we all know usually it's the rubber that fails around the bearing and there have been some ratsun fixes for that but what if the bearing is junk....

 

The option I was presented with from a driveshaft shop was a volvo carrier bearing, part number 1480-50.. 

Screenshot_20220118-200441_DuckDuckGo.jpg

Edited by Crashtd420
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What I did was i used an 1/8 plate between the factory mounting point and the base of the volvo bearing....
Easiest way is bolt the plate to the frame, position the carrier bearing where you want it and mark the location.
Remove plate and drill the holes for the carrier bearing .. then bolt the plate to the bearing... There is a small recess where the original fits that provides clearance for the bolts heads....
Then bolt the plate to the frame.....

 

Turns out this is not as good as I thought.... you can use this bearing but 1/2 needs to come off the bottom of the bearings stand and then welded to the 1/8 plate....

 

I added a pdf file for the plate, obviously the bolt holes for the bearing stand won't get used but they will locate it for where you need to weld the stand..

 

2 other better options are presented further in this post....

 

 

Carrier Bearing Bracket.pdf

This is the download....

A thanks goes out to mikeklotz for drawing this up....

 

 

Screenshot_20220214-130106_Drive.jpg

Edited by Crashtd420
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(This did maintain the correct height and neccessary angle....)

Edit: this was incorrect....

It was a little tall compared to factory by 1/2"..

 

The only thing is I believe you just have to make sure you press it on in the same location as the old, so a measurement from the end of the driveshaft to the middle of the carrier is good to have....

I'll try to see clearer on mine where it was placed, but someone I know is doing this to there driveshaft so I'll see if they can get some of that information and I can add it later on...

 

Edited by Crashtd420
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While this is a different part number I believe this is the correct part and it did crossreference to the 1480-50 ...

The biggest thing is making sure it was the .985 bore diameter because some of the volvo carrier bearing look similar but have a larger diameter....

This was the one my friend bought so we will also verify it fits the shaft properly since it say the id is 984....

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-VOLVO-S60-V70-XC90-94807025-Driveshaft-Center-Support-Bearing-/172157426764?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Screenshot_20220119-103024_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20220118-201224_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20220118-201214_eBay.jpg

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In all of Ratsun history there is only one verified case of bearing failure. That was metal monkey. People change them for no good reason.

 

The bearing goes inside the driveshaft with a stationery sleeve on the outside that the rubber isolater holds onto.

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In all of Ratsun history there is only one verified case of bearing failure. That was metal monkey. People change them for no good reason.

 

The bearing goes inside the driveshaft with a stationery sleeve on the outside that the rubber isolater holds onto.

 

hzQ6RWl.jpg

 

r6oxdGB.jpg

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I mentioned its usually the rubber failing, I cant remember why I changed mine but I told oilspot I'd post this info just incase he needed it...

Also another member here who live kind of close to me is doing this fix...

He said his feels really rough rolling in back and forth... 

 

I guess this is for that 1% that might need to put a new one on....

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My center bearing was dry as a bone and rusty. Since I didn’t have any immediate solutions, I repacked mine with tons of grease and then reinstalled the shields. And yes, the rubber is fairly worn out.

 

I’m going to look into doing this fix now that you posted it.

Edited by mainer311
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11 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

My center bearing was dry as a bone and rusty. Since I didn’t have any immediate solutions, I repacked mine with tons of grease and then reinstalled the shields. And yes, the rubber is fairly worn out.

 

I’m going to look into doing this fix now that you posted it.

Like i said there is guy up in NH that's doing it and hes gonna verify what I have posted.... 

He has the cab off the chassis right now and is taking before and after measurements for me....

Plus he bought the ebay part so we can make sure its correct....

But I believe what I have posted so far is accurate....

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39 minutes ago, d.p said:

When I got my driveshaft done the shop tried to find a replacement to no avail. My rubber is good but the bearing itself is noisy as hell. 

I'm trying to verify one last measurement now..

Actually I'm getting the measurement I need in a minute,  just need to take the same measurement on my truck to compare....

Basically I wanna make sure the centerline height wise remains the same.... I think its correct but I'm just trying to cover everything since a few people might be taking this route for a fix.. 

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So that last measurement is tricky... seems correct still but it's hard to measure while under the truck...

The guy in NH is taking some pictures for me tomorrow so I can measure to the same spot... but he is gonna have the truest compassion...

He has his stock chassis with no cab or bed on it and he knows where he took his measurements from so when the part shows up we will have that true number.... hopefully it all checks out.... 

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Anyone feel like checking a measurement for me?

 

I'd just like to see the stock distance between the bottom outside diameter of the driveshaft and the bottom edge of the frame....

I'm looking from front to back , 

I get a 5" length.... by the pictures I was sent I think stock distance is just a little more... which would be great because adding a spacer is easier than trying to make this setup shorter....

20220124_161035.jpg

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2 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Sorry for the delay. Best I figure, it’s about 4.75”:

 

A9tiUb6.jpg

 

 

Ok, I know I said it was 5 but it was slightly under that but not 4.75 ..  damn I was afraid of this...

So it seems my setup pushes the center line up 1/8 to 5/16....

Correction will have to made to this thread....

The bearing I listed could still be used but it would have to be cut down and welded to the plate to be at the stock height... 

 

I found another candidate which comes from the 80s Mazda b2000...

The bolt location is very close but they would need spacer to raise it up to the proper height....

 

I might try to buy one for the guy in NH and see if we can figure it out on his chassis... I'd happily buy the Volvo part from him since it on my truck.....

 

 

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Well this wasnt how I hoped this would all go... 

So the direct comparison did not go as expected... the Volvo carrier bearing on it own raises the center line of the drive shaft by 3/8"... add the 1/8 plate to sit on now we are talking 1/2 inch... so I'm sorry to say this is not a direct bolt in..

With that said this part can still be used. You would need to cut 1/2" of the legs and instead of bolting it to the plate it would have to welded on.... 

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So since I have someone willing to try thing on his stock chassis I ordered up a Mazda b2000 carrier bearing and had it sent directly to his house.... 

My hope is it will be able to be positioned at the right height with a couple spacer and longer bolts....

 

More to come....

Screenshot_20220129-162946_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20220128-134232_DuckDuckGo.jpg

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1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

Have you compared the outer diameters?  Maybe you could just cut off the outer metal and shove it in the stock mount?  I haven't looked closely at a mount to know if this is feasible or if it's all fused to the original mount?

I know what your saying but I dont think so... I could actually bolt the top half of the stock piece over the Volvo part as it is in my truck... that's why I'm surprised at the height variance on the centerline. 

But that might work on the Mazda one, we will explore that as a possibility....

 

I even wondered about seeing if jakemakes could 3d print the rubber part of the original and set it up to accept a bearing, maybe something 2 piece that traps the bearing inside ... i haven't looked into just a bearing yet  .... 

 

The biggest problem for the 521 is the .985 diameter needed for id of the bearing... I only found a couple carrier bearings in general that had that size...

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