Big Sky B210

[the510keeper]

Sweet B210, slam it baby

[sick620]

On 1/19/2022 at 9:56 AM, 420n620 said:

don't worry so much about the rust issues, it's just metal and can be repaired. If you got a friend or money to buy a 110 welder, thats 2 options ya got. Maybe time to purchases one, welders are cheap today. 

See Kelmo stepped up on the hubcap, off the list now. 🙂

Got to tell you about rolling windows up on vehicles, bad deal, I got a 67 Lemans 4 dr hdtp, windows were up tight, now the front windshield is lose and I'm sure the floor is bad condition. It's a super low mileage Pontiac, not Fnn happy. Now my cars that sit outside have their side windows down a 1/4 inche to keep moisture from building up. 

 Never really thought about how windows down a little would help it out… makes sense allowing carpet to dry out some…I’ll just order a cheap flux welder I think.

Edited January 20, 2022 by sick620

[sick620]

Started to de smog and remove AC parts… if anyone is interested in them let me know… this round thing in front of valve cover in water neck what is it for? Does it need capped ? 

[420n620]

just so you know. The ac unit if not removed with a vacuum pump and capped off. The AC unit is NOW contaminated and might be total junk. Talk to a professional AC person and they can explain it more.

As for the one way valve in front, it's a mater of choice, want to clean the bay up or use it for what it was intended for. I would keep it but it's your ride. 

Other members will give you their options so wait to see what they have to say.  

[sick620]

On 1/24/2022 at 7:54 AM, 420n620 said:

just so you know. The ac unit if not removed with a vacuum pump and capped off. The AC unit is NOW contaminated and might be total junk. Talk to a professional AC person and they can explain it more.

As for the one way valve in front, it's a mater of choice, want to clean the bay up or use it for what it was intended for. I would keep it but it's your ride. 

Other members will give you their options so wait to see what they have to say.  

Well that sucks if I removed it and it ruined it…. will make someone a sweet onboard air pump I guess If I did ruin it..

[afracer]

It's not ruined, only the receiver drier desiccant gets ruined if left open to the elements in a humid environment. The receiver  drier is meant to be replaced any time you open the system up, and can be found on ebay at times. But you should always close it off or cover the ports up to keep the system clean.

[sick620]

I got a complete set of hubcaps and some new tires mounted up… trying to figure out why when the car is off with the lights off one light stays on? 

[datzenmike]

The brake light switch on the brake pedal is still on. Some pedals have a rubber spacer on the pedal that pushes against the switch... and it falls off. On some the switch is adjustable. The other side the bulb is burned out.

[sick620]

She runs but smokes 😞 

going to do a quick re ring style rebuild soon but first have my girlfriends 521 to take care of…

 

why is it sitting so high in the front you think? Haven’t looked into it yet but I’m sure it’s not lowered in the back yet its got kind of a "cali rake" 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by sick620

[datzenmike]

The rear springs may have sagged slightly.... and you are facing up hill placing more weight to the rear.

[sick620]

Towed the car to its new home today… apartment to an actual house so I’ll have some room to actually work on the thing hopefully 

[sick620]

I got the major areas of the rusty floor patched just tacked in with my non existent welding skills. And coated in zero rust… I will later fill in some of the small spots around the edges that I missed and Seam seal, as well as zero rust the under side .. just Trying to get this car in driving condition for now before re-evaluating what my plans are for it … put my 2023 Crosstrek floor mats in it for now since I got some weather tech style floor mats for it…  

 

just going to get some cheap seat covers and cover the seats for the time being and make it atleast sorta presentable. 

Edited October 4, 2022 by sick620

[sick620]

Pulled back seat, and gas tank. Blew out fuel line with compressed air and used a drill with a piece of welding wire to snake the inside of the line. Took a while but a combo of air, welding wire, and pb blaster and brake cleaner.. and now it’s clear.. going to clean the tank now and clean the car an re install everything. 

[sick620]

Pressure washed, soaked in clr, and shook around some washers in the tank and got most of the rust out. It’s now drying in the sun ☀️. Install tomorrow hopefully. Trunk had more rust in it than I thought after cleaning it out. I just layed down a coat of zero rust for now hoping that slows down the decay until I can get to it later. 

[sick620]

Tank is back in the car and the car is running off it’s own gas supply finally.. I ran it for the first time for a few minutes straight and it smokes even worse than I thought billowing blue smoke more smoke the more you rev it.. I’m assuming rings. Is there a valve stem seal on these push rod motors? Are they easier to replace than an L series and worth a try before tearing into this motor or doing a motor swap? I have plenty of experience on lseries no experience on the A series. 

[datzenmike]

The smoking may reduce as it is driven but unlikely it will fully stop. Yes there are valve seals and if you eventually rebuild the engine if you replace them and it doesn't help much they will already be done.

 

Pull the spark plugs and valve cover off and remove rocker arm shaft with all the rocker arms on and set aside. Turn the engine by hand till the intake valve push rod on any cylinder has just finished dropping down and the valve would be closed. This is the compression stroke and the piston is still way down the bore and the exhaust valve will remain shut. Push a couple of feet of 3/8" nylon rope into the plug hole. (tie a big as knot on the end if you are worried about loosing the end) Turn the engine by hand towards top dead center till it's tight and you have compressed the rope in the combustion chamber and immobilized the valves. 

 

Compress the valve springs and lift the keepers out, pry the old seals out and press the new ones in. Turn engine backwards to release rope and go to next cylinder. No need for fancy fittings and an air compressor. You could do this on the side of the road if you wanted.

[sick620]

I ended up just pulling it. As long as the cylinders and pistons are in good shape I’ll just do a cheap hone and freshening up leave it original and re install. If it needs machine work I’ll probably do a gx head gasket and double valve springs and an aftermarket cam since I already have it apart. Does anyone know if a a12 thermo housing will bolt on? One without the smog stuff?…. Does anyone have an extra intake that’s crack free? 

[datzenmike]

Hone and ring? Don't use a ball hone on a worn cylinder. Get the one with stones...

 

 

This will be the best for taking any high spots down.

 

Use the cheap cast iron rings as they will wear in and seal faster. Molly rings are for absolutely perfect freshly bored cylinders with perfect finish. 

[sick620]

25 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hone and ring? Don't use a ball hone on a worn cylinder. Get the one with stones...

 

 

This will be the best for taking any high spots down.

 

Use the cheap cast iron rings as they will wear in and seal faster. Molly rings are for absolutely perfect freshly bored cylinders with perfect finish. 

Since I already have a ball hone here I will probably just use that. This is all dependent on if the cylinder doesn’t have any ridges etc… anything concerning I’ll take it to the machine shop. But if it’s all in good shape just bad rings I’ll be using the hone I already have and yes re ring… any pointers on using the ball hone and not screwing anything up? I realize the rationale of using the hone you recommend it keeps everything uniform and in a straight line takes out high spots.. I’m just doing this cheap if I can… 

[KELMO]

A12 thermo housing I may have around here; I'll have to look.

 

The intake you are looking for, What motor is this one...A13, A14? And, is it a round port or oval?

[sick620]

18 hours ago, KELMO said:

A12 thermo housing I may have around here; I'll have to look.

 

The intake you are looking for, What motor is this one...A13, A14? And, is it a round port or oval?

That would be awesome will the a12 housing bolt up? It is an a14 oval port with square exhaust 

Edited October 12, 2022 by sick620

[KELMO]

Pretty sure I only have round port intakes but I'll take a look. I did a quick look around on the T/stat and they all seem to be the same as what you have and were attached to motors. If I do have one it will be in one of my parts tubs. I have to try to get my plow truck running today as I think the snow is going to fly early and often this year.

[datzenmike]

I think it will bolt on but the later larger A14 has  an extra hole into the head covered by the thermostat housing that the A12 will not cover.  A12 has 2 mounting bolts and a single radiator hose. The A14 has three mounting bolts, a radiator hose, and what looks like a heater hose connection. This heater hose connection on the A12 is directly to the head.

[sick620]

Update: 

Removed head. Block is in amazing shape one of the cleanest Datsun motors I’ve ever been inside of. Cylinders are great smooth no ridge. Head gasket looks to be in great shape still. So this should just be an easy hone and re ring job.. I’ll definitely go with the 8mm nismo head gasket to maybe bump compression slightly.. I may get a bigger cam and dual valve springs and port and polish the head a bit too, haven’t decided yet… I already have an adapter and a 32/36 Weber that I need to rebuild and install. I’m on the hunt for an oval intake though because I really don’t want to have to jb weld this one it’s pretty cracked. 

 

EDIT. Ended up deciding to bore it out with some bigger pistons while its apart. 
 

I really want to figure out if an a12 housing can be made to work I don’t like this ugly smog one especially after deleting much of the smog stuff. 

Edited November 6, 2022 by sick620

[sick620]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I think it will bolt on but the later larger A14 has  an extra hole into the head covered by the thermostat housing that the A12 will not cover.  A12 has 2 mounting bolts and a single radiator hose. The A14 has three mounting bolts, a radiator hose, and what looks like a heater hose connection. This heater hose connection on the A12 is directly to the head.

 

3 hours ago, KELMO said:

Pretty sure I only have round port intakes but I'll take a look. I did a quick look around on the T/stat and they all seem to be the same as what you have and were attached to motors. If I do have one it will be in one of my parts tubs. I have to try to get my plow truck running today as I think the snow is going to fly early and often this year.

 

ok mike you are right there is a hole but it’s just an air injection passage according to this, so I will just need to make an adapter to cover the hole as seen in the photo. So yes kelmo I’d love one if you can find one, whenever you find the time. 
 

 

Edited October 12, 2022 by sick620